Is this a porky? - advice on Front Beam Adjusters

[Davydomes]

Having recently purchased a part restored 69 Tin Top we are in the lucky position to start putting this bus back together. The rear axle and suspension were put back in this Sunday gone with a Single Spline drop. We have a front beam with adjusters already fitted. We put the Torsion Plates back in having replaced any cracked or broken plates. (bit of a pig of a job :? ). The beam has been powder coated and we noticed that we could not move them at all so we thought - "how the hell can they be adjusted?" :shock: . We thought that perhaps the dimples had not been drilled out that secure the central torsion plates retaining disc because it didn't look as though they had with all the powde coating on it. Anyway - after phoning the previous owner we were told they had been done professionally. Having contacted the workshop that had done these the guy said that the dimples were drilled out and the steering box had been removed to drill out those covered by it and re-welded back in place.

Now to the point of this post and my novice question.

He said that the adjusters could not be moved/adjusted when the beam is NOT fitted in the bus. When it is fitted in the bus the weight of ithe body will move them and this will allow adjustment to the required height to be done.

Is that correct - when the beam is out of the bus they cannot be moved/adjusted but when fitted under the van the weight of the the van releases the tension and adjustment will be possible.

Don't want to fit the beam only to have to take it out again.

 

[sparkywig]

You won't be able to move the adjusters once the beam has the torsion leaves and trailing arms fitted.
The weight off the bus will help to lower the suspension setting, but it's a pig to raise it again.

 

[Davydomes]

You won't be able to move the adjusters once the beam has the torsion leaves and trailing arms fitted.
The weight off the bus will help to lower the suspension setting, but it's a pig to raise it again.

The trailing arms aren't fitted - the tubes of the beams are open ended at the moment with needle roller bearings fully visible. There is nothing retaining the ends of the torion plates.

 

[Clem]

If the dimples have just been drilled out (and I assume the central block has been hammered from the side to break it free) then it will be a bastard to move whether the beam is in place or not. Thats why I cut the beam open, remove the central block and belt sand it and the inside of the beam to make sure it moves freely.
All that said, using a piece of scaffold between the trailing arms and/or the weight of the van, you should be able to get it moving.

 

[RICH-I-AM]

If thats the case they should rotate but will be firm even though the beam is fairly stripped.
I found a bolt with the same thread and welded a length of tube to the head about 6 inches long (for extra leverage).
Mine moved freely with that.
If you do that and they still wont turn id say theres a problem.

Rich

 

[Davydomes]

(and I assume the central block has been hammered from the side to break it free)

That's a very good point - we don't know, but that makes total sense and we will ask the guy that did it if necessary. Having never seen the instruction that come with the kit(s) available out there - does it advise you to do that?

 

[Clem]

(and I assume the central block has been hammered from the side to break it free)

That's a very good point - we don't know, but that makes total sense and we will ask the guy that did it if necessary. Having never seen the instruction that come with the kit(s) available out there - does it advise you to do that?

Im not sure what instructions are out there, just drilling the welds will still mean the centre is exteremely tight though so the common practice is to whack it from the side with a length of bar, although this frees it off, as you can imagine, it will remain very tight when knocked back into situ.

 

[Davydomes]

Im not sure what instructions are out there, just drilling the welds will still mean the centre is exteremely tight though so the common practice is to whack it from the side with a length of bar, although this frees it off, as you can imagine, it will remain very tight when knocked back into situ.

Will have to look at this - is there any isssue with the Needle Bearings i.e. Do they have to be removed to get the disc out? Because it's full of grease we can't actually see the diameter of the disc and wondered if it cleared the Needle Bearings - it's diameters is smaller than the internal bore of the Needle Bearing.

Sorry for all the questions just don't wanna cock it up an end up forking out for new parts (or waiting for delivery of them :roll: )

Thanks for your help so far Clem.

 

[ground hugger]

Hi
you won't get the centre retainers out of the tubes by drifting as the inner bearings are fixed
As been mentioned you could put a longer threaded bar/bolt in or an old track rod end with some tube slotted over it.leaver it up and down but it will be tight still,if your just going to raise/ lower it once I'd do the above..Dave

 

[Davydomes]

you won't get the centre retainers out of the tubes by drifting as the inner bearings are fixed

 

[Clem]

Try drifting it from side to side a few times and then rotate it as described above, and squirt a load of thin oil around it ... thats as much as most people do, it should be enough to make it adjustable.

 

[jonboylaw]

I found that they were tight but using a lift and getting a ratchet strap on them helped when I needed to raise mine slightly.


Sent from my GX64 SatCom phone using Tapatalk

 

[Davydomes]

Well did exactly as advised - Drifted the the centre disc left n right a few times, plenty of fine oil and welded as bolt to a tube (special thread - had to buy it special :roll: ) and used it to lever the disc to rotate a few times..........and...........Bob's your Dad's brother!!!!! . Worked great - beam back in today and lowered. Thanks everyone that made suggestions

 

[Clem]

8)