Problem oil leak!!!

[RICH-I-AM]

To anyone that can help...

Over the last my 70 Bay has had a fair amount of work done at the bodyshop. Before it went i took the engine out to strip,sort the leaks and have a look round. It was pretty bad inside so from an engine gasget set n pushrod tubes it actualy needed.
1. 2x cylinder heads(OG parts with new valves,seats etc)
2.oil pump
3.Big ends
4.Little ends
5.Main bearings
6.Camshaft
7.Cam bearings
8.Piston rings
9.8xTappets.
10. Service parts....plugs,leads,points,condencer,cap rotor ...........
Spent the best part of a month measuring and putting it back together again.
Started as soon as the carb filled up and sounds perfect :mrgreen:
Today i got the camper on the ramp(Im a mechanic) and set about tuning it.A session with the timing light and gas analyser and it seems to run ok.
When ive done i switch the engine off and raise it into the air to have a look round.
I have a leak, only a small one but causing a drip after 10 mins running at full temp.
The leak is a hairline crack in the block .
The crack is on the corner edge of the case nearest No1 cylinder,horizontal with the bottom edge of the pushrod tube.Its about 3/4 of an inch long.
This engine has had the sticky end of 450 pounds spent on it recently. So scrapping it isnt an option.
I presume the cracks been there a while.But wasnt spotted as the engine was leaking from just about everyware.
Its a (B) engine, 1600cc SP.
Any ideas on how to stop the leak welcomed :shock: .
Thanks


Rich

 

[noddy]

You could try this stuff: http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8685&frostProductName=J+B+Weld+Adhesive&catID=56&subCatID=&FrostCat=Gaskets&Sealers&FrostSubcat=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Only thing is dont know how you will get it into a hair line crack, maybe you could clean the outside of the case and put a filled over the crack.

The also sell some thing call "captain trolleys creeping crack cure" but dont think that will help as the crack will be full of oil so this stuff wont get pulled in by capillary action.

 

[RICH-I-AM]

Would ally welding work :?:

 

[noddy]

Yes cases can be welded, but not sure if you will need to strip it down again.

I would guess that is your going to get it welded that the crack would need to be ground into a V to get good weld penetration, and as a result leave nasties in your sump (grit swarf etc)

 

[Araon]

Whatyou could do is weld around the crack forming a ring then back fill with weld, take your time a little at a time and you should get away with it.....

 

[VeeDubMan]

To anyone that can help...
The leak is a hairline crack in the block .
The crack is on the corner edge of the case nearest No1 cylinder,horizontal with the bottom edge of the pushrod tube.Its about 3/4 of an inch long.
Rich

I had something very similar on an engine I built for my old beetle; bottom of oil-cooler mount had a hair-line crack, but I ended up scrapping the case and getting a brand-new one from JMR for peace-of-mind.

 

[currylager]

If the access is good, then find someone who has a tig welder i'm sure it could be welded in situ, might have to drain the oil tho :wink:

 

[RICH-I-AM]

Cheers for the advice chaps :wink:
Been doing my homework today.
Decided to metal fill or something along them lines.Then,next winter when its off the road il be taking the engine out,stripping it again and getting it Tig welded. Cant lose this block though so if it (crack) grows then itl be getting a mid season strip/build.Someware between BigBang n BugJam :mrgreen:

Thanks again

Rich