Raising the suspension on adjusters

[milfredo]

I removed the extra coil over shocks and swapped for blisten ones from T2D. Rides better but sits 2 or so cm lower. This will not be good for the family camps. I have adjusters but have never used them before. What are the steps to lift it back up 2-3 cm? I’ve watched a few vids on YouTube for beetles but will this be the same for the bus?

 

[ozziedog]

I’ve never had adjusters or used them . From what I’ve read, once they’ve been settled for a while, they can be a bit of a trial to shift to a different position. The adjusters to all intents and purposes have replaced and moved the central fixed position for the torsion springs. Most that have moved them seem to relate it’s easier if you do both sides at the same time. All of the above may be a complete load of baloney but the big thing to remember here is torsion springs, go careful.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,, keep us in the loop bud.

 

[sparkywig]

It's easier to lower on adjusters than raise them, as the weight of the vehicle helps turn the torsion arms up.
Once you've loosened the adjusters you'll probably have to undo the balljoints, and possibly remove the spindles, and separately force the top and bottom torsion arms down to get them to move.

They're not under tension like the rear, Oz.

 

[Clem]

Are you on reversed ball joint spindles? If so, as SparkyWig says, you will have to dismantle ball joints etc to move them as the tension is far too high otherwise.
If you are on regular spindles you might get away with leverage - worth a go to begin with.

 

[milfredo]

Sounds hard! Balls

 

[milfredo]

How do you know how far to turn them?

 

[milfredo]

I found this which makes it a little more understandable to me.



When he does the top adjuster, he says that it should be done differently. What is he missing in his process?

 

[Clem]

How do you know how far to turn them?

There used to be some calculation around 1cm adjuster movement equated 1 inch of wheel/arch height - but I may have misremembered that.
There are variables in moving the adjusters - if its a bespoke custom beam, then usually the adjusters are free in the torsion tubes and move ok. If adjusters have been welded into a stock beam, the internal locaters are often freed off by drilling the spot welds and then whacking the locaters from side to side with a metal bar until they are free - this usually results in adjusters that are very hard to move - in my first beam I cut the tubes open, removed the locators, ground down the edges so they were free then replaced them and welded the tubes back up.

Yeah, it can be a big job, and in reality, its trial and error. Set a day aside, get it done and leave it alone!

 

[Anotherpaul]

If it helps I've spent the last couple of weekends trying to do just this. Mine is an original beam with a welded on adjuster only on the top tube. The only way I managed to get the adjuster to move was to remove the track rods and bottom ball joints (which was a bit of chore). Only problem is now the shift rod is fouling on the beam adjuster so the job this weekend is to fit one of these - https://www.heritagepartscentre.com...t-shift-rod-for-use-with-adjustable-beam.html :/

 

[Graham L]

As others have said to raise it you really need to dismantle at least the bottom ball joints to take the tension off the leaves and remove the top damper bolt as that will stop it moving as well, adjust and then refit. If you are looking at gaining 2cm I'd be inclined to move it 2 notches (paint pen on the side of the adjuster block before moving so you know where you started from)
The adjusters should be set in different positions to ensure the leaves are preloaded, if they are set to the same position the beam will be in 'free run' mode with no tension on the leaves, we set them so the top adjuster is 3 notches higher than the bottom one when counting from the bottom of the adjuster block that's welded to the beam.

There are lots of variables though.
- stock beam with adjusters top and bottom
- aftermarket narrowed beam
- flipped or stock spindles

 

[Moseley]

Just to throw another option in there from my experience, if the leaves have been properly pre-loaded then with the van off the ground, the top springs will be trying to push the trailing arms down, and the bottom leaves will be pushing upwards.

With this in mind, you can take the tension off the top leaves by jacking up the lower trailing arms and then remove the adjuster. Then the lower adjuster can be removed once you’ve removed the jack(s) from the lower arms. Adjust and refit the lower adjuster as required, and then do the reverse steps to refit the top adjuster.

All this can be done without dismantling any ball joints, but care does need to be taken when removing the first adjuster in case it is still under tension.

 

[milfredo]

Thanks everyone, looks as though this is going to be painful. Still, no van until it’s done! I rather take it somewhere to get done but know of nowhere local.

 

[milfredo]

 

[milfredo]

There used to be some calculation around 1cm adjuster movement equated 1 inch of wheel/arch height - but I may have misremembered that.
There are variables in moving the adjusters - if its a bespoke custom beam, then usually the adjusters are free in the torsion tubes and move ok. If adjusters have been welded into a stock beam, the internal locaters are often freed off by drilling the spot welds and then whacking the locaters from side to side with a metal bar until they are free - this usually results in adjusters that are very hard to move - in my first beam I cut the tubes open, removed the locators, ground down the edges so they were free then replaced them and welded the tubes back up.

Yeah, it can be a big job, and in reality, its trial and error. Set a day aside, get it done and leave it alone!

I think mine is an original beam that has been narrowed and adjusters fitted. I’ve no experience in. Recognising the spindle type. Lots has been done though and it looks to be high quality. Hubs are custom drilled for Porsche 5 stud.

I’d better start gathering the tools and putting the bay up on jack stands in prep and photo taking.

 

[Clem]

Quick pic of the ball joints will show us what type. Essentially, if ball joint bolts are below the spindles they are standard. If the bolts are above the spindles they are reversed.

 

[milfredo]

Quick pic of the ball joints will show us what type. Essentially, if ball joint bolts are below the spindles they are standard. If the bolts are above the spindles they are reversed.

I’m away this weekend so will start to tackle this next week.

 

[milfredo]

Okay, so under the van today first time this week I’ve been able to, and it looks like I could have some problems with my bottom adjuster. The bolt has ground away and so has a bit of the adjuster and it looks like it’s running about 5 to 6 notches Upwards while the top adjuster is as high as it will go. This must mean that I’m currently only running on the top spring? The bottom adjusted needs moving almost to the bottom where it’s completely worn off all its ridges!

 

[milfredo]

Okay, so under the van today first time this week I’ve been able to, and it looks like I could have some problems with my bottom adjuster. The bolt has ground away and so has a bit of the adjuster and it looks like it’s running about 5 to 6 notches Upwards while the top adjuster is as high as it will go. This must mean that I’m currently only running on the top spring? The bottom adjusted needs moving almost to the bottom where it’s completely worn off all its ridges!


View attachment 8059View attachment 8060

 

[milfredo]

Looks a lot better cleaned up. Will need some new hardware

 

[milfredo]

They must’ve lowered it by just adjusting the bottom adjuster so clearly explains quiet Road so wobbly and dove through its suspension