Relocating fuel line in engine bay

[mginty]

I'm going to change my fuel lines/ remove excess fule filter to decent ones as per my earlier post
http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=43525
The engine bay one is here:

and I'm wondering whether there is a preferable route for it to take or should I just leave well alone and just replace?

I'm sure I've seen other engine's with a different route?
thanks

 

[Marvel]

It should route via the clips from the tank, over the gear box, down to a metal pipe that goes through the tinware, on to the fuel pump, then from there, up to the carb. And don't use the braided stuff so it's easier to check the integrity of the rubber when you give the pipes the regular once over.

 

[art b]

ive just built up an engine,removed cleaned out, repainted and refitted the fuel tank with new fuel hose and clips, 8)

and im goin to ...

drill a 25 mm hole in the tinware at the extreme lefthand side,
bring my new hose though it,
with 6 inches of a larger hose around it [fitting the hole perfectly] to act as a large grommet...
straight on to the fuel pump
fuel filter will be located to the left of the gear box b4 the line comes in over the engine,
ive decided to leave out any copper pipes and joins in near to the engine...

'pics may follow''

 

[mginty]

I successfully changed the fuel line between the pump and the carb earlier today however I'm a bit concerned that it's not tight at the carb fuel input on the top cover.
There is a small copper (?) pipe that goes into the carb top cover. When I removed the old braided line, this came out with the line (I had loosened the clamp already).
I've tapped it back in with a hammer however at the first attempt at connecting the line, it was still loose and was leaking a little.

I've cleaned up the area and tapped it in harder, re-attached the line and given it a tug (oe-er) and it's not come out. Will wait until tomorrow when the area is dry before checking again but has anyone come across this before and how did they fix it?
thanks

 

[art b]

there was a near fire... where the brass spigot in the fuel pump came out, :shock:
spraying the engine bay with fuel poss on the ssvc forum,

 

[mginty]

yeah I just read this one which was pretty heartbreaking:
http://www.ssvc.org.uk/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67518

The spigot issue seems similar except at the carb end.

just found this:
http://www.vw-resource.com/fuel_line_input.html

 

[art b]

great site that rob and daves ,,
ive read many an article,
you can also wire the pipes on to the carb and pump etc,

can the spigot be soldered in ...?

 

[mginty]

you can also wire the pipes on to the carb and pump etc

how do you do that?

Can't solder as engine in place and can't take out (no facilities). I want to drive it to the garage and get some work done on it without it catching fire! Am currently fitting a firetec too!

 

[*Sam*]

The small brass pipe on my fuel pump came out, i cleaned and dried the pipe and inlet, then I used some lock tight retaining compound. It's designed to work under high temp and for interference fit items such as the brass pipe.

It's been fine so far.

 

[mginty]

cheers Sam, Will try combo of the knurling and lock tight - is it the brand locktight or is there another product name?
cheers

 

[Trikky2]

cheers Sam, Will try combo of the knurling and lock tight - is it the brand locktight or is there another product name?
cheers

Araldite also works

 

[mattp]

And the correct grade fuel hose -currently I think this is R9

 

[RichardAlexander]

you can also wire the pipes on to the carb and pump etc

how do you do that?

Can't solder as engine in place and can't take out (no facilities). I want to drive it to the garage and get some work done on it without it catching fire! Am currently fitting a firetec too!

Use some nice strong copper wire, using a screw driver make a loop and twist it so it forms a nice twist and loop. Undo one of the screws nears the pipe and fit the loop under that then tighten back down, using the screwdriver again make another loop/hook, now using the fuel line clamp you should place the hook around the underside of the head so when you tighten the clamp down it pinches the wire as well. The twisted wire will need to be long enough to reach this when it's in the correct position. If the wire is just the right length the pipe should not come out as it will be held in place by the body of the carb. Having said all this I replaced the carb because it wasn't the only thing loose on it, and I am much happier knowing that i dont a cheap fix on the fuel line in the engine bay. also I would recommend the metal fuel line fron JK it can be bent to shape carefully, and routed so it doesn't touch anything, it's easier to keep and eye on as you very little rubber hose, only to do the joins, and these can also be easily checked as well.

 

[RichardAlexander]

Ps GET THE FUEL FILTER OUT OF THE ENGINE BAY. It's safer underneath where the fuel line leaves the tank or before the fire wall under the bus, I seen the pics where these have burst just ask Doris on here. At least do not on the high pressure side after the pump.

 

[*Sam*]

cheers Sam, Will try combo of the knurling and lock tight - is it the brand locktight or is there another product name?
cheers

Sorry for the slow reply, yes it is the brand locktight.
Sam