Single-port manifold - leaking heat pipe - repair or scrap?

[starbiscuit]

Just wondering if there's any interest in this.

It's off a June 1970 bus, stock single-port Solex manifold with no vacuum take-off.

Until I replaced it recently, I was running with a blanking plate in each of the heat riser flanges because the pre-heat pipe is rusted through in the sections where it sits below the intake pipe (see pic below). Due to years of collecting moisture I guess. Probably both sides of the centre section.

Anyway, I don't know if it's useful or repairable; I don't have welding equipment or skills needed. I considered just rust-treating it and clagging the gap with exhaust paste but there must be a better way.

I wanted a vacuum spigot to add a servo, so I replaced it and this one is spare / scrap.

Free to anyone interested and who will cover the postage (I have no estimate for that)

Cheers,
Rob

 

[Aardvark]

I was reading this and when I got to the last bit, I found that you had done the very thing I want to do. That's to add a servo. Luckily my manifold has a vacuum take off already which is blanked. But could you help me out by describing how you fitted the servo?
When I got the van, it had a new front beam fitted which has servo mounting brackets in place already, so I can't imagine it will be too difficult. But if you could advise on which servo to use and any other information, it would really help me out.
Thanks
Aardvark

 

[starbiscuit]

I didn't get around to fitting a servo over the winter and events have overtaken the project this year.
I was looking at fitting a servo from a late bay, together with master cylinder and brake-pedal push-rod from a late bay, and eventually front disc setup of some sort.
But that's complicated by me having an LHD beam in a RHD bus, so there is no servo mounting plate where I need it. It's not too difficult to add a mount, and the Brazilian servo is still available new, although different mounting pattern than late bay. And the can is bigger which might make clearance worse.
I also looked at a remote servo kit, which maintains the dual brake circuits by having two servos in one can. Mods are required to brake pipe routing and brake switch wiring, but not difficult.
That has the advantage of the freedom to place the servo wherever you have room (the standard location is tight for me due to other mods, especially the Brazilian servo), and is potentially a bolt-on fitment. Google "vw jim servo" to get an idea.

HTH