**update 2**finally got the video uploaded to you tube.....

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sharky71

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Hopefully i have managed to upload the video to you tube so with any luck you can view it/listen to it atlast :lol: :lol:

I have tried the screwdriver in the ear and onto the dyno casing but i could not hear/feel any grumbling so i am at a loss as to what it is.
Any help much appreciated.
The noise is about 1min 50 secs in.

Appologies for the shaky vid but it was i could do to get down there and poke me head in the bay seeing as i am recovering from a twisted lower spine :lol: :lol:


http://youtu.be/aaeZ4Z5-XVg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Regards.

sharky.
 
Just watched it but couldn't really hear it well :? If you're thinking it's coming from the Top pulley / dynamo, whip the fan belt off, run it for a few seconds and if it's all quiet you've found the place to look at :D then you can check for a bad top pulley, bad bearings or a wobbly fan :mrgreen:
 
if i'm honest it sounds metallic :cry: and deffo coming from around the dynamo.
would it be a bad top pulley??if it was would it sound metallic??
could it be the brushes sort of arcing???
i struggle to bend down and lean into the bay at the moment due to recovering from spinal,lower lumbar issues(been 8 weeks now) and Saturday was the first time i've been anywhere near the van since before Christmas as a result.

If it is the pulley wheel how can i tell,likewise do i steer clear of repro ones/chrome ones??
The whole van is stock except the Diesel Eberspacher,Faux's Roof Bed and a Firetec system so i don't really want anything flash.
 
i run a chrome alternator on chrome top pulley and og bottom....
when i set it up originally, I left all the spacers out and got the metallic grumbling sound you might be describing....which i found to be a lack of shims.
can you twist the belt thru 90 degrees (stopped obviously)?
 
I not sure what noise you are meaning but something to check as i had a ticking noise noise on mine when idling/low revs. It looks like your top and bottom pulley are stock, so probably not it, but i had an aftermarket lower pulley which had slightly worn on the woodruff key, a very slight movement could be detected with engine off, which was the cause of the tick. In my case the key was ok but the groove in the pulley had enlarged slightly. When cold, grip tightly and try moving both pulleys round, one at a time, to see if there is any slight movement, but not turning the engine, if that makes sense. not saying that is it but just one of many experiences to share........
 
it does sound like a alternator bearing

as suggested whip the fanbelt off and try again - DONT run for too long as it will overheat

if the fan was catching the shroud it sounds more of a metalic scraping
 
Thanks for the swift replies fellas!!

Well i have took your advice and have taken fan belt off and the complete top pulley assembly by wiggling the back plate repeatedly til it worked loose.I rotated the shaft clockwise and no grumble or noise was present,anticlockwise and there was some minor noise,not sure if it is the culprit or whether it was the brushes rubbing on the armature or whatever they call the thingymajig! :lol: :lol:

What i did find was play forward and back between 1-2mm is that normal??If not what do i need to do??

I have taken two new video's showing the thunk when i push pull the shaft and also showing the shaft spun by hand.
The second video is the engine running without fan connected showing you all is nice and quiet,well if you can have a nice and quiet aircooled engine :lol: :lol:

This one is the video with a nice voice over explaining in my dumbass way of what i found :lol: :lol:

http://youtu.be/JQGsm_c0xNs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This video is of the engine running without the fan belt connected and all is quiet 8)

http://youtu.be/DY98SIHy5GU" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Again what are your thoughts fellas.
 
i had play like you are experiencing on my dyno....when i tried to hook up the leisure battery i bought along with the split charge system i realized that the piss small dyno stood no chance of charging both batteries so i converted to alternator. £300 quid later all problems went away.
300 quid tho. and i needed a fuel pump and an angled thingy for it to accommodate the alternator being fatter than the original dyno...so check with alex at heritage that you have all the bits you need if you do chose to go alternator route.
depends when you want to use your bus really....and what you want to run electrically from it....if you want leisure battery for music and lights then go alternator...if not replace the dyno with a new one...
did you check play in your belt? how tight was it? could you twist if thru 90degs and no more? if less...then the belt was too tight and that might have contributed to bearing wear.
if you do replace the belt, make sure you check tightness after a good run as it will stretch slightly and may require shimming again to get the right tension.
if you replace the dyno with alternator, keep you old shims. new ones are shite...
 
here is where i am at.

as per last nights update and two video's,trying to spin shaft etc etc i treid a new belt and put 6 shims all original ones which came with the van and started up the van,fan turned fine no squeals then it started to ever so slightly but a squeal not a grumble.
again i tried the screwdriver in the ear thingy again it made no difference.

BUT!! what i will ask,now don't shoot mefor being thick,rather new to mechanicing.
the question is when i took the back half part of the pulley off the shaft i had to wiggle it and then it came off,now on the shaft there is a little groove and on the inside iof the pulley half there is a notch to which i assume it is to line up with something??
stooopid question alert :oops: :oops: it isn't where this thing called a woodruf key sits in the groove on the shaft??
the reason i ask is when i put the pulley back on it would not stop in one place although it tightened up ok.
when i took the pulley parts off nothing fell or dropped off.
if the groove is for the woodruf thingy and i do not have one is that what is causing the squeal??can these woodruf's disintergrate/wear away??

regards an embarassed to ask

sharky.
 
If the pulley has been run loose then the woodruff key can wear or even break but the remains of it would still be in its groove and the groove would show signs of damage.

From your description it sounds like the woodruff key was left off in the past.

Note, the woodruff key is a locator only. When the pulley is correctly fitted it must be tight on the shaft. The woodruff key should not be involved in the transfer of rotational forces.

If the pulley is not tight on the shaft it will move, chattering and wearing its contact area surface and eventually destroying the woodruff key or failing altogether.

If the squealing noise is caused by your pulley moving on the shaft then it needs fixing urgently.
 
Update on this then............

I had me woodruf key come today,what a frickin pain in the arse that is to fit :roll: :shock: everytime i slid the back half of the pulley on it pushed the woodruf key up ever so slightly which stopped the pulley fully going home then push abit harder and the key slid all the way to the back and have to start all over :evil: :evil: :evil: ,an hour later and in darkness losing the will to live with an EB somehow it all went together.
So,new woodruf key fitted,new fan belt tensioned correctly engine running all is fine on tick over,take the choke off and a couple of minutes later the noise is back again only this time it don't sound like it is coming from the front of Dynamo,i even wedged a screwdriver in my ear again and touched the casing to hear rumbling but nothing :roll: :roll:

What can i say,i am at a total loss as to where the noise is coming from,no rags in the back of fan housing,all leads are on tight,fan belt new and tensioned correctly.

So where do i go from here???

Anyone in the Hereford area who can lend me 5 mins to listen and pass judgement??

Regards.

Sharky :| :roll: :? :( :cry:
 
SO AS HEADING STATES UPDATED......

I fitted the woodruf key as explained early and seamed quieter but ran for about 10 mins and the niose came back so off i went to the local Auto Electricians and it's an engine out job :( :cry:

So i've pulled the engine and have checked oil deflector plate to double check correct fitting(see earlier thread about weeping about 3 months ago),yes it was fitted correctly and Dynamo is off but my question is how do you get the bloody fan off the back???
Obviously it keeps turning,should i have took it off when still attached to bottom crank pulley??
I can not see how you put it on iether if it again is fitted when shroud is in place.
Looked in Bentley and unless i am missing something it does not show/tell me how to go about it,also what tool to use.

Any suggestions??
 
Difficult to tell from the videos but it sounds similar to a problem I had last year and that was failed alternator bearings. Cheap and easy fix if you have it out anyway

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
Had a local Vehicle 'lectrician cast an ear and eye on the noise/squeal and advised to shim out the endfloat,while he's at it new bearings and armature all for 40 notes :p

Went to start the van up to leave and i flooded the bloody carb :oops: :oops: still can't get to grips with starting it from warm,any tips?? :lol: :lol:
 
Well i got the Dynamo back after it was refurbed,put it all back together last night and hit fitting the engine this morning starting at 8am.

What a f**kin' nightmare!!!! I left all the xorst/xchangers and brace bar still attached to the engine when i removed it(followed some advice on here).
I stuck a jack under the gearbox before engine removal so as the engine would slide straight back in.
It f**kin' did not!!!
The bottom studs flew in and the brace bar was on the chassis points but the top was a mile out!!!
I pulled the engine out probably 6 times to check if the gearbox shaft was fouling on the clutch it was ok but the bottom studs would not line up with the bell housing then :evil: :evil: :evil:
Anyway i finally got the bottom studs to line up so i slapped the nuts on then i don't know how i did it but i tightened the to top bolts through the bell housing followed by the bottom two.
8hrs later i have it all back in,towbar on valance and bumper also fired up fine and i got gears aswell :| :|
So my question is how do you guys manage to push/pull your engine complete using a trolley jack on the block and a sicssor jack on the gearbox????

Am i missing something??Am i thick,stoopid???
I nearly took all the zorst and brace bar off because it kept catching on the rails :evil: :evil:

Tips,tricks and ideas most welcome.


Rant over,sorry for the bad language,i am off now to sort my forehead out since i split it open nutting the chassis rail as i got up in ANGERRRR!! It's quite a nice split and a bump the size of an imperial mint.

Regards,a sore battered and brusied van owner losing the love of aircooled :cry: :cry:

Sharky.

:sick0019:
 

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