96 QUID OR LOCKTIGHT ??

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Mickey Sam

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Sorry if I'm dragging up an old subject but my CV joint bolts keep coming loose I have just checked out the price of :

Just Kampers :

24x CV Bolts : £ 1.00 each ( fair enough ) J10592
24x CV Washers: £ 2.00 each ( :shock: ) J11247
12x CV boot flange plate £ 2.00 each ( :shock: ) J10988

Are they serious , 96 quid to renew bolts , washers and flanges ???

I done a search on this and some of you guys use 'Lock-tight' or similar.

Is the problem with Lock-tight that you can't undo the bolts if you need to in the future ?


Fair enough, if I have to shell out 96 quid, so be it , but have read stories about the bolts STILL coming loose even with new bits.


Anyone know the secret of keeping the cv bolts in place ???
 
Nothing special about that washer. It's not a bog-standard flat-type though. It has "textured" faces that make it act like a sprung washer.

As for the spreader plates: re-use your existing ones. I hear you can run without them if you really want.

As for the bolts: I'm torn on this. On my old bus I re-did the CVs 3 times after they worked lose again. Even with locktite.

I hate CVs.
 
Contact Simon, i know he made some flange plates so i would expect he has all the other bits.

http://www.buttysbits.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
You could also drill a hole through each bolt head and thread some wire, twist, thread, twist and so on. so they are all connected.
 
Being a bit of an old OCD git, when I replaced my gearbox I experimentally assembled one side with new and the other side with the old bolts and washers. Torqued both up the same.

Seven years later neither side came undone, despite having a lot more power running through them than before.

Maybe those that come loose have lithium grease trapped between the flanges and the CV joints?
 
radish said:
You could also drill a hole through each bolt head and thread some wire, twist, thread, twist and so on. so they are all connected.

You must have better gear than me, none of my drill bits would even touch those high tensile bolts they use. :lol:
 
you can get M8 serrated washers cheap enough on ebay ...they are a single use item .....
 
Yes, the serrated washers also known as schnorr washers are cheap enough on ebay. i would replace them, and use a dab of locktite too.
 
Slow-lane-Matt, , first time I noticed it was when I heard a banging and rattling, then ground to a halt in the middle of a busy junction during rush hour :oops: :lol:
The bolts at the wheel end had all come loose , some bent up and two had snapped. I ended up having to take the stub axle out to ( carefully ) drill the snapped bolts out.
Second and third time I noticed through regular ( paranoid ) checking.

Having said that , I have now learnt that whenever you take the CV joint bolts out you should replace them with new ones as they are designed to expand when tightened ( I think - not sure if that's correct ?) . I did not replace the bolts when I replaced my CV joints :oops:

Radish, thanks for the heads up, just ordered a new set of bolts , washers and flanges from Simon @ http://www.buttysbits.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; at half the JK price.

Thanks guys for all your responses, much appreciated - I'll let you know how I get on, cheers
 
Trikky2 said:
radish said:
You could also drill a hole through each bolt head and thread some wire, twist, thread, twist and so on. so they are all connected.

You must have better gear than me, none of my drill bits would even touch those high tensile bolts they use. :lol:

I'm lucky enough that mine have never come loose, but there was a guy on ssvc that did it. He had a big engine and all that power kept working them loose.
 
Forget Loctite - use silicone sealant .
Not as stupid as it sounds as it has a `Give` quality which Loctite doesn`t . Used for many years at the TT - along with lockwire .... 8)

Works... trust me ;)
 
Better than Loctite for anything like that ..
If it does start to work loose the silicone `rolls` around itself and tends to tighten its grip on the bolt - silicone a nut & bolt together and try to undo - be surprised 8)
 
all i can say is our fell out last year spreaders gone anfd three bolts snapped. ran well over 500miles on three bolts till we got home,

up to you mate.

john
 
sparkywig said:
I've never had any come loose, but the bolts are cleaned and de-greased before refitting.

Got to agree with this fella here and Tricky too. You just can`t get them clean enough when re assembling. If you are in any doubt, run the the threads two or three or even four times and make sure the `nut' side is as clean as the bolt side. I`ve seen people clean the bolts off before and then try and work them into filthy nuts and wonder why it`s so hard to do up. It don`t matter how much loctite or whatever you use if both surfaces aren`t perfectly clean because if it`s stuck to some little piece of shit :shock: it ain`t stuck to the thread like you`d want it to be. With C.V.s it`s ackward to keep everything clean and get everything done up and torqued before the loctite goes off because there are so many of the little buggers. You really have to be clinical with this. I like the sound and the reasoning behind the silicone plus it will take a little longer to cure especially if you use RTV (room temperature vulcanising) also it may allow a little encapsulating effect for ultra tiny bits of crap. I can`t really see the power of a slightly bigger motor making too much difference as these are mahoooosivly over engineered as with most VW stock stuff. ;)

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,,, Remember guys,,,,, Cleaner than your foreskin :lol: :mrgreen: :roll: :mrgreen: :lol:
 
Cheers guys.

Received my new set of bolts, washers and flanges ( within 17 hrs :shock: , cheers Simon ) but now have brake issues to deal with first.

Sounds like cleaning before fitting is the secret to holding the bolts in place , cheers for all the replies,
 

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