Air shocks

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Hi,

Yes it's cheap on Amazon, plus i have both front and rear shocks when i got mine, the shipping wasn't too bad, as cheap as anyone else, though if you knew someone in the US you may not get hit with customs. When i got mine, all of this was paid up front, so i knew what it was gonna cost, (in theory) it all adds up, so you need to take this into account, it isnt as cheap at face value would appear due to the shipping and tax, but still cheaper that the others.

Cheers

Alistair
 
Just to add my bit to this conversation.

I have driven Matt Keenes old bus which runs on air shocks back and front. The bus was sat on its torsions and had a air tank to maintain pressure and take pressure off the compressor. When driving it was smooth and controlled, at one point, along a bumpy, road i added air to the front as the tyre were scrubbing. This lifted the front up an inch or so and no more scrubbing. When i got back to a smoother surface i dropped the front again.

The key seems to be to set the bus on the torsions at the lowest safe running height. This ensures that should the air shocks fail there is no danger of the tyres bottoming out etc. From talking to a number of people about this route, the shocks, if chosen correctly, should be able to take the weight of the bus for longer periods but would benefit from use alongside current torsion set up. This won't give a massive rise or drop but comes in very handy with speed bumps, campsites or rough roads.

Just as another advantage, with the air tank fitted and front and rear valves it allowed the bus to be levelled for camping. The pressure would hold for days without the compressor kicking in. (I think Evil Ben fitted it and obvoiusly did a good job)
 
side to side and front to back levelling requires 2 electric valves per side, one to fill and one to empty, you can get these for around a tenner each posted. Also needs one check valve per set on the tank side. Sounds like it does the job for a small amount of lift.

the price including all four shocks is pretty good.
 
I thought this comment was interesting and this remember is on a bug, this is going to be less on a bus especially if you have a camper.

the more splines you drop it the less the shocks will lift it...
at 1 inner spline I was able to lift the rear 4"
at 2 inner splines it only lifted it est. 2"
the more you lower the rear the less the torsions help in the lifting
 
I have connected my compressor to the fillingline of the shocks.
Is this OK or should I disconnect the hose after raising :?
 
faux said:
Just to add my bit to this conversation.

I have driven Matt Keenes old bus which runs on air shocks back and front. The bus was sat on its torsions and had a air tank to maintain pressure and take pressure off the compressor. When driving it was smooth and controlled, at one point, along a bumpy, road i added air to the front as the tyre were scrubbing. This lifted the front up an inch or so and no more scrubbing. When i got back to a smoother surface i dropped the front again.

The key seems to be to set the bus on the torsions at the lowest safe running height. This ensures that should the air shocks fail there is no danger of the tyres bottoming out etc. From talking to a number of people about this route, the shocks, if chosen correctly, should be able to take the weight of the bus for longer periods but would benefit from use alongside current torsion set up. This won't give a massive rise or drop but comes in very handy with speed bumps, campsites or rough roads.

Just as another advantage, with the air tank fitted and front and rear valves it allowed the bus to be levelled for camping. The pressure would hold for days without the compressor kicking in. (I think Evil Ben fitted it and obvoiusly did a good job)

Hi,

How do you mean set the torsions at the lower height? You mean on a lowered bus with adaptors/cut n turned beam

On a stock set up it would just bounce on the bumpstops, your on about if no bumpstops fitted, and using the air to ride at a normal lowered height.

Interesting way of using them

Cheers

Alistair
 
Johnny said:
side to side and front to back levelling requires 2 electric valves per side, one to fill and one to empty, you can get these for around a tenner each posted. Also needs one check valve per set on the tank side. Sounds like it does the job for a small amount of lift.

the price including all four shocks is pretty good.

Hiya,

Interesting this, something i could add to the existing set up for front and rear control. I was just gonna have the same air both front and rear from the same compressor, dont need speed, i would guess it would take longer with 4 dampers.

Cheers

Alistair
 
I think that compressor is going to take ages to fill the shock so I'm going to fit a tank. I found this one on ebay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370563729146?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I'm then going to change the tubes from the shocks to 6mm from the shock as on the samba the guys say the ports size is around quarter inch. I'll put a pressure switch on the tanks side P/S 1 that will turn on the compressor to maintain volume not sure what pressure ill go for there yet, depends what the compressor will do. I'll then fit pressure switches wired into the solenoids to prevent both over pressure and bottoming out of the shock.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290463025324?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


bus air shocks by D9000, on Flickr
 
aogrady said:
faux said:
Just to add my bit to this conversation.

I have driven Matt Keenes old bus which runs on air shocks back and front. The bus was sat on its torsions and had a air tank to maintain pressure and take pressure off the compressor. When driving it was smooth and controlled, at one point, along a bumpy, road i added air to the front as the tyre were scrubbing. This lifted the front up an inch or so and no more scrubbing. When i got back to a smoother surface i dropped the front again.

The key seems to be to set the bus on the torsions at the lowest safe running height. This ensures that should the air shocks fail there is no danger of the tyres bottoming out etc. From talking to a number of people about this route, the shocks, if chosen correctly, should be able to take the weight of the bus for longer periods but would benefit from use alongside current torsion set up. This won't give a massive rise or drop but comes in very handy with speed bumps, campsites or rough roads.

Just as another advantage, with the air tank fitted and front and rear valves it allowed the bus to be levelled for camping. The pressure would hold for days without the compressor kicking in. (I think Evil Ben fitted it and obvoiusly did a good job)

Hi,

How do you mean set the torsions at the lower height? You mean on a lowered bus with adaptors/cut n turned beam

On a stock set up it would just bounce on the bumpstops, your on about if no bumpstops fitted, and using the air to ride at a normal lowered height.

Interesting way of using them

Cheers

Alistair

Hi
What I mean is to set the suspension at the lowest you will drive it at using the torsions as they were designed it doesn't matter if you have a cut and turned or stock beam with adjuster. The issue with bumpstops would reduce your lowest point.

The shocks can be used to gain a small amount of extra height where needed. Obviously the torsions reduce travel down and up so the shocks aren't the restriction but the stock suspension.
 
aogrady said:
Johnny said:
side to side and front to back levelling requires 2 electric valves per side, one to fill and one to empty, you can get these for around a tenner each posted. Also needs one check valve per set on the tank side. Sounds like it does the job for a small amount of lift.

the price including all four shocks is pretty good.

Hiya,

Interesting this, something i could add to the existing set up for front and rear control. I was just gonna have the same air both front and rear from the same compressor, dont need speed, i would guess it would take longer with 4 dampers.

Cheers

Alistair

even if you just add four electric valves you can control back to front with alot more speed. Also if you can find someone to mill and tap a piece of solid aluminium or brass with a central line and four outputs you can fit the electric valves in a similar manner to the big boys like airbagit. Its really simple to do if you had the tools or a machinist mate.

I've seen 2/3 way valves for sale on ebay, all you need to do is choose one with the right amount of outlets, they are already wired with a relay you just screw the outlet valves in. If you have a two way return switch (3 position) then you just need two buttons to control front and rear.

I really love what this guy has done... top end setup but not a dub, its a trick mod you can buy off the shelf from airbagit and wire into any electric valve setup.

[youtube]3FTk6achIH0[/youtube]
 
LeeZee said:
I'll put a pressure switch on the tanks side P/S 1 that will turn on the compressor to maintain volume not sure what pressure ill go for there yet, depends what the compressor will do.

you really want to go for a 150 psi minimum pressure as your air-max shocks from monroe are rated to 150 psi max. Youll need alot of pressure to lift the rear of the bus with any haste.

I have bought a viair 150 psi setup as i find the air lift 100psi too slow now. I dont want to pop up and down but 1-2 mins is way too slow. :)
 
Its a shame you can't get those Viair 150s over here though, shipping them aint cheap. Anyway surely the volume of the tank is what will make the difference in speed, the pressure is more going to dictate how high it can lift the bus.

You mention using 3/2 valves but unless you use 2 for each shock or set of shocks with the exhaust ports blocked I can't see how that would work as you need to maintain pressure to hold the height. I've just gone for 4 x 2/2s, if it works out at the back I'll buy 4 more and go independent on each shock and if not then I'll put a normal set of shocks on the back with independent left and right lift on the front.

Wish me luck.
 
I've been putting some discussions on this thread:

http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=40329" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

About the fact that I'm having issues fitting the air shocks on my narrowed beam (4 inch narrowed beam from T2D). There are also some concerns that they may bottom out.

->Adam
 
LeeZee said:
Its a shame you can't get those Viair 150s over here though, shipping them aint cheap. Anyway surely the volume of the tank is what will make the difference in speed, the pressure is more going to dictate how high it can lift the bus.

You mention using 3/2 valves but unless you use 2 for each shock or set of shocks with the exhaust ports blocked I can't see how that would work as you need to maintain pressure to hold the height. I've just gone for 4 x 2/2s, if it works out at the back I'll buy 4 more and go independent on each shock and if not then I'll put a normal set of shocks on the back with independent left and right lift on the front.

Wish me luck.

I know this is an old post but for the benefit of others, you can! I used this kit for my bug -
http://www.mattsavage.co.uk/acatalog/Medium-Duty-Onboard-Kit-10003.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Works a treat and I got about 6-7 lifts from a full tank.
 
just looked through this thread and some links for what you gain is the cost worth it ,i had my bus lowered by t2d and regret it big time for what it cost me ,http://www.wagenswest.com/partstore/index.php/bus-front-suspension/split-bag-beam.html ,have some very intresting bits but i think air bags are the way to go and after reading there website and what you get the prices seem pretty good as i was charged well over a £1000 for a welded beem (non ajustable) two tyres ,small drop on the back( non adjustable ) and poss the worst ride i have driven this is in no way a pop at t2d but after looking round i wish i had thought more .sorry if this doesnt make sence :(
 
just been looking at the air ride on land rovers ,might try and get the measurements of them and have a play :D
 
dub boy said:
just looked through this thread and some links for what you gain is the cost worth it ,i had my bus lowered by t2d and regret it big time for what it cost me ,http://www.wagenswest.com/partstore/index.php/bus-front-suspension/split-bag-beam.html ,have some very intresting bits but i think air bags are the way to go and after reading there website and what you get the prices seem pretty good as i was charged well over a £1000 for a welded beem (non ajustable) two tyres ,small drop on the back( non adjustable ) and poss the worst ride i have driven this is in no way a pop at t2d but after looking round i wish i had thought more .sorry if this doesnt make sence :(


have a read about air ride on the ssvc site, splits were doin it years ago
 

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