anti roll bar pics

[Mark6455]

Hey dudes i'm thinking of putting my anti roll bar back on to see if it stops the snatching on bends
ive got a 4" narrowed beam with adjusters soon to put dropped spindles and coilovers on
my anti roll bar has been narrowed to fit the beam someone said it can be fitted upside down so if anyone has any pics of this it would be great to see

thank's dudes

mark

 

[Tofufi]

I've just fitted my bus (4" narrowed beam) with an anti-roll bar.
It's surprising the difference it makes to the composure of the van over potholes and uneven roads as well as cornering.

No pics, but I fitted mine the standard way up - it's barely any lower than the rest of the beam.

 

[mychatype3]

I've just fitted my bus (4" narrowed beam) with an anti-roll bar.
It's surprising the difference it makes to the composure of the van over potholes and uneven roads as well as cornering.

No pics, but I fitted mine the standard way up - it's barely any lower than the rest of the beam.

Cool, what for kind did you fit? your beam is 4inch narrowed so you cant place te original one?

Greetings mycha

 

[Mark6455]

I've just fitted my bus (4" narrowed beam) with an anti-roll bar.
It's surprising the difference it makes to the composure of the van over potholes and uneven roads as well as cornering.

No pics, but I fitted mine the standard way up - it's barely any lower than the rest of the beam.

Mmm I must be a bit lower as when I had mine fitted it scraped every bulge in the road and as I'm going lower I think I'll need to fit it the other way up

Mark

 

[dubdubz]

my anti roll bar has been narrowed to fit the beam

any pics of how this was done? need to do mine this week...

 

[Mark6455]

my anti roll bar has been narrowed to fit the beam

any pics of how this was done? need to do mine this week...

If you check out 89rallye on here he did the job for me as far as I know he narrowed then slaved it
Must say he did a great job it's solid

Mark

 

[Tofufi]

I've not seen a narrowed bus anti-roll bar which hasn't been modified from stock width.

On mine, I cut the original bar at a 30 degree angle to increase the length of weld, then seriously chamfered the edges to ensure good weld penetration. Before welding, I made a sleeve which from a length of close fitting steel tube, into which I drilled holes to allow plug welds along its length as well as seam welding the ends. This was slid onto/along the ARB before welding the two halves together, and slid over the join once it had been ground back flush.
If your welding isn't up to it, get someone else to do it for you... it's essentially a safety-critical suspension part.

Don't forget that welded torsion bars (and therefore potentially the ARB too) are potentially a reason for MOT rejection.

Welded repairs to highly stressed components such as steering/suspension arms, rods, levers etc are not normally acceptable, other than where the component is made up of sections that are welded together.

http://www.vwjim.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; sells very nice looking narrowed anti-roll bars (modified from standard width items), which he informed me would fit a Bay as well as a Splitscreen.

 

[89Rallye]

I've not seen a narrowed bus anti-roll bar which hasn't been modified from stock width.

On mine, I cut the original bar at a 30 degree angle to increase the length of weld, then seriously chamfered the edges to ensure good weld penetration. Before welding, I made a sleeve which from a length of close fitting steel tube, into which I drilled holes to allow plug welds along its length as well as seam welding the ends. This was slid onto/along the ARB before welding the two halves together, and slid over the join once it had been ground back flush.
If your welding isn't up to it, get someone else to do it for you... it's essentially a safety-critical suspension part.

Don't forget that welded torsion bars (and therefore potentially the ARB too) are potentially a reason for MOT rejection.

Welded repairs to highly stressed components such as steering/suspension arms, rods, levers etc are not normally acceptable, other than where the component is made up of sections that are welded together.

http://www.vwjim.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; sells very nice looking narrowed anti-roll bars (modified from standard width items), which he informed me would fit a Bay as well as a Splitscreen.

I did Marks similar to how Tofufi described, we did it more as an experiment tbh to see how i faired before all the smart arses come on saying you shouldnt do it etc

Original length

Shortened on a chamfer

Slieved and welded

Its also plug welded through the front but its difficult to see

Refitted and ready to go back in.

Its not ideal as I would of liked the tube a better fit and also longer but it was all I had lying around.

oh and btw I cant see your van going any lower Mark, not in my hands anyway :lol:

 

[89Rallye]

Also Mark, looking at them photos I dont see any problem swapping the arb over.

 

[Mark6455]

Hooray hooray your back mark
I thought you might have a bit to add regarding the shortening of the arb mate I did say it was a solid job

And never mind all this not going lower rubbish of course you can get it lower(once you build me my new tubs :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[dubdubz]

thanks 89Rallye - do you not think the chamfered weld would hold - ie don't sleeve?

 

[Mark6455]

I've not seen a narrowed bus anti-roll bar which hasn't been modified from stock width.

On mine, I cut the original bar at a 30 degree angle to increase the length of weld, then seriously chamfered the edges to ensure good weld penetration. Before welding, I made a sleeve which from a length of close fitting steel tube, into which I drilled holes to allow plug welds along its length as well as seam welding the ends. This was slid onto/along the ARB before welding the two halves together, and slid over the join once it had been ground back flush.
If your welding isn't up to it, get someone else to do it for you... it's essentially a safety-critical suspension part.

Don't forget that welded torsion bars (and therefore potentially the ARB too) are potentially a reason for MOT rejection.

Welded repairs to highly stressed components such as steering/suspension arms, rods, levers etc are not normally acceptable, other than where the component is made up of sections that are welded together.

http://www.vwjim.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; sells very nice looking narrowed anti-roll bars (modified from standard width items), which he informed me would fit a Bay as well as a Splitscreen.

I did Marks similar to how Tofufi described, we did it more as an experiment tbh to see how i faired before all the smart arses come on saying you shouldnt do it etc

Original length

Shortened on a chamfer

Slieved and welded

Its also plug welded through the front but its difficult to see

Refitted and ready to go back in.

Its not ideal as I would of liked the tube a better fit and also longer but it was all I had lying around.

oh and btw I cant see your van going any lower Mark, not in my hands anyway :lol:

Haha what were you saying mark

 

[89Rallye]

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


Engine raise next then :shock:

 

[Mark6455]

Mmmmmmm