Axle Stands....The Safest Point to Place Them?

[graysummers]

I'm about to get under the van to change the starter motor. Where's the strongest and safest points to put the axle stands ? I have a fantastic bottle jack (8 ton max), sturdy trolley jack, two metal drive on ramps (I thought these could be placed for extra safety under the wheels) and the two sturdy axle stands. (All my Dad's stuff who used to be an engineer and worked on countless cars with this equipment) I don't own a jack of the type that fits in the square jack points either. Any problems using bottle/trolley jack with top "cup" ? I'm asking because that's a whole lot of van to keep safe. Cheers.

 

[Fortunate Son]

I put axle stands under the outboard end of the torsion tubes at the rear and under the (suspension) beam at the front (assuming your chassis and front beam are solid).

 

[AxlFoley]

same here.

 

[graysummers]

OK Thanks. I'll do the same. Nothing in manuals advises.

 

[Hilly_70]

torsion tubes are a good place to jack ..

.. I would advise avoiding using the original jack on the jacking points unless the bus is real solid ..

Hilly

 

[graysummers]

Got the axle stands onto those torsion tubes and it was a bit of a tight fit next to the hand brake metal housing tubes and bracket, but the van's as solid as a rock. Got concrete blocks under the jacking points too just in case. That upper starter D-Bolt is a nightmare. It won't shift. I need a long ratchet 17mm ring spanner I think. Got a lovely bruise on the right arm and nothing to show for it. The wire/ring connecter on the solenoid bolt from live battery wire snapped too. So rusted the whole thing won't turn. 37 years old and reluctant to leave home I reckon. Wants to stay with Momma Bus. There are two red wires to the spade connectors and my new starter motor and solenoid has only one flat connector but with a tiny flat connector joined at right angles. Is this right ? Oh well ! Tomorrows another day.

 

[dave]

are you replaceing starter bush as well? may need to do mine soon but the bush sounds like a pain in the a*** to do. Apparently do not need this with a starter from an auto but they are twice the price.

 

[graysummers]

Well the bushing will definately have to be replaced if the condition of everything else is to go by. I'm trying to fathom out why I only have one spade connector housing on the GSF supplied starter. I can see two on the old starter that lay in the dim recesses under the van. And that damn nut on the D-bolt at back of fan housing refuses to shift. WD'd and all.

Dave. There's quite a bit on the Auto decision. I don't know if it's cheaper, quicker and easier to just thread tap the old bushing out. It's a squeeze under there though, lying on cold floor and you need a steady hand.

 

[graysummers]

The starter is all in and turned over first time. The red wiring connectors and black battery connectors were in a terrible state and all had to be chopped and replaced. The original bushing I checked with a piece of metal dowel the same size as the starter motor shaft (my Dad's idea) and it was snug as a bug. Surprisingly little wear. Maybe I've done the wrong thing in not replacing it with a new one, but to score and tap out the original would mean me travelling to my Dad's (140 miles away) and using all his stuff and the facilities that I don't have here in Wales. That D-Bolt was a nightmare and it's the luck of the draw whether you've got an impossible nut or a peach lying behind the housing or not. I've re-named it the F-Bolt. Mind you, putting it back in with that Just Kampers mechanic's idea of a bit of insulation tape to give it purchase and stop it slipping was a good idea. Next up ? Saw that the Heat Exchangers had no cables attached and someone had badly wired them open (Now snapped and useless). I'll be asking for advice again no doubt. Thanks all for your feedback and advise. Priceless.