Ball Joint or Link Pin to go low and narrow?

Early Bay Forum

Help Support Early Bay Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

61 stu

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
1,534
Reaction score
0
Location
Watlington Norfolk
I want to go lower and narrower, adjusters are welded in the existing ball joint beam at present so do i:

a) add dropped spindles and a ball joint narrowed beam
b) go the link pin beam route with dropped spindles

what d'ya reckon?? :)
 
IMO, and I have done both, the KnL route is the smoothest ride. Neither are cheap.

But I would definitely consider the Red 9 wishbone set up, it is not much narrower but with the right offset it seems to be the most cost effective route and the ride should be good.
 
faux said:
IMO, and I have done both, the KnL route is the smoothest ride. Neither are cheap.

But I would definitely consider the Red 9 wishbone set up, it is not much narrower but with the right offset it seems to be the most cost effective route and the ride should be good.

yeah i have thought about it, after youve paid £650 for zero offset spindles from T2D plus a narrowed beam it start looking very appealing
 
61 stu said:
faux said:
IMO, and I have done both, the KnL route is the smoothest ride. Neither are cheap.

But I would definitely consider the Red 9 wishbone set up, it is not much narrower but with the right offset it seems to be the most cost effective route and the ride should be good.

yeah i have thought about it, after youve paid £650 for zero offset spindles from T2D plus a narrowed beam it start looking very appealing

I agree, £1350 including a steering rack sounds pretty good when you start adding up other routes. I have been very impressed with how the kit looks.
 
faux said:
I agree, £1350 including a steering rack sounds pretty good when you start adding up other routes. I have been very impressed with how the kit looks.

Damn you, i thought i'd talked myself out of spending this amount on my bus ;)

Totally makes sense though :)
 
61 stu said:
faux said:
I agree, £1350 including a steering rack sounds pretty good when you start adding up other routes. I have been very impressed with how the kit looks.

Damn you, i thought i'd talked myself out of spending this amount on my bus ;)

Totally makes sense though :)

It does make sense and will transform the drive of the bus, I would recommend some adjustable springplates to add to the easy of fitting and dialability. :mrgreen:
 
So will then steering rack make it drive more smoothly and stop it wandreing about the road then :?:

That will be three birds with one stone then, lower, narrower and new steering :?:
 
ghop99 said:
So will then steering rack make it drive more smoothly and stop it wandreing about the road then :?:

That will be three birds with one stone then, lower, narrower and new steering :?:

It will make a huge difference, I wish I had the cash at the moment to do it.
 
been doing some casual research into this too. so can you get dropped link-pin spindles that accept standard t2 disc setups, like brazillian units? or is the only option for disc brakes on dropped link-pin spindles expensive kits like csp etc?
 
I think you can get link pin spindles which are designed for late bay discs. They are the same as the ones they fit to the new Brazilian bays.
 
faux, yeah i know about the current brazillian link-pin spindles that use vw disc brake set up, but are these available 'dropped'. so you can simply bolt on easily available disc brake parts without spending a grand to get disc brakes tytpe thing, yeah?

also on red-9 set up, which looks very, very good. whats the ground clearence like compared to a beam. especially if you go very low, i.e max on the red-9 + dropped spindles.

i'd be interested to hear from red-9 users with a measurement from their arch to the floor/ground and their respective setup; height position wheel/tyre radius etc, oh and their ground clearence, especially on quite low setups.

cheers.
 
61 stu said:
I want to go lower and narrower, adjusters are welded in the existing ball joint beam at present so do i:

a) add dropped spindles and a ball joint narrowed beam
b) go the link pin beam route with dropped spindles

what d'ya reckon?? :)

Dropped spindles and narrow your own beam dude :)
 
faux said:
Brazilian spindles can be dropped in the same way As others.
.................

so when you say this, do you mean they're dismantled and the centre section reassembled on opposite sides or something, so the actual spindles get raised? i think thats how they did pin spindles? not knowledgeable about king/link/pin spindles at all, educate me.

or they're cut about and welded like majority ball-joint spindles?

cheers.
 
stagger lee said:
faux said:
Brazilian spindles can be dropped in the same way As others.
.................

so when you say this, do you mean they're dismantled and the centre section reassembled on opposite sides or something, so the actual spindles get raised? i think thats how they did pin spindles? not knowledgeable about king/link/pin spindles at all, educate me.

or they're cut about and welded like majority ball-joint spindles?

cheers.

You were right first time, reassembled.
 
Hows about picking up a potentially cheap mis-spelt slitscreen(sic) creative weedeater K&L beam off ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Slitscreen-King-and-Link-Pin-FRONT-BEAM_W0QQitemZ110415849270QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item19b54c2736&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A1%7C66%3A3%7C39%3A1%7C293%3A2%7C294%3A100" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I assume if you take those mounts off its the same as a non-air version?

Also hes in Blandford - selling on behalf of creative???
 
i'm curious, with the t2d setup, which is very ingenius. they stress the importance and labour involved in sourcing the right joints for it to work safely. so, though joints should last a long time, if you were unfortunate and needed new ball-joints. what do you have to do. buy them off t2d at whatever price, send the arms off to them for replacement, whats the deal?

not to worry, found an old thread with all the bumf on it.

but......

forget costs for now. how do people/users think this system compares to a K/L set up for ride quality and robustness. i read that K/L pins are stronger than bj's, thats why they still use them in brazil now. plus with some simple regreasing they'll outlast bj's?
 
stagger lee said:
i'm curious, with the t2d setup, which is very ingenius. they stress the importance and labour involved in sourcing the right joints for it to work safely. so, though joints should last a long time, if you were unfortunate and needed new ball-joints. what do you have to do. buy them off t2d at whatever price, send the arms off to them for replacement, whats the deal?

not to worry, found an old thread with all the bumf on it.

but......

forget costs for now. how do people/users think this system compares to a K/L set up for ride quality and robustness. i read that K/L pins are stronger than bj's, thats why they still use them in brazil now. plus with some simple regreasing they'll outlast bj's?

Ive been mulling this over ahead of a winter where I want to go lower ... at the moment Im veering towards the T2D BJ's ... Im guessing that under 'normal' angles stresses then og BJs last say, 20? years, and then begin to fail when they have to work at non-spec angles. So if T2D are providing heavy duty BJ's for this application, then its going to be pretty much fit and forget as they will be working within there own comfort zone. I hope?
Im also assuming though KnL may be stronger, its more rudimentary, and thus cheap from the off - as I guess that evrything in Brasil these days is done to the budget bottom line?
There must be a reason that VW dumped KnL for BJ in the 60s?
I am left with the narrowing conundrum - I dont want to hack my beam up really, so I guess the whole KnL option would suit ..... or do I really need narrow? :?
 

Latest posts

Top