Ball joint replacement

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rustydiver

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Daft question i know, but how easy are they to replaice.
Got a replacment beam in the garage and want to replace them before i fit it onto the van. Want to do all four.

Any comments please.
 
If you can find somewhere to press them in and out thats most of the battle won!! I needed to replace two but decided it would make sense to do all of them at once!

They are in under some pressure so its best to go to an engineering firm or agricultural workshop that`ll have the equipment!!

HTH

Al
 
I tried and failed to replace 1 on mine and gave up thinking it would fail the mot but they passed it anyway.
Is thier a special vw tool for doing them?
 
chippi said:
I tried and failed to replace 1 on mine and gave up thinking it would fail the mot but they passed it anyway.
Is thier a special vw tool for doing them?

Mine had failed on a ball joint, and the ones on the new beam aint so good.
 
My ball joint splitter didn't fit, thier easy to change if you can break the joint but thats most of the battle.
 
Think it could be time to call in a friend (He mot'd it last year),
Think hes getting fed up with my bus :shock:
 
they are a ******* to replace :D

You'll need a 100 ton press and something hot like a blow torch to heat it up probably. Taking the trailing arms off is the easy bit.

Seriously its a job for a pro or your local engineering works might be able to do it.

Are you sure its the joint? and not just the rubber? you can get the rubber boots cheaply if they are split. You wont fail on a split boot normally, unless you get a real hitler of a tester.
 
Johnnyâ„¢ said:
they are a ******* to replace :D

You'll need a 100 ton press and something hot like a blow torch to heat it up probably. Taking the trailing arms off is the easy bit.

Seriously its a job for a pro or your local engineering works might be able to do it.

Are you sure its the joint? and not just the rubber? you can get the rubber boots cheaply if they are split. You wont fail on a split boot normally, unless you get a real hitler of a tester.

Driver lower had to much play in it.
Beam had to much rust in.
Got a rust free beam from classycampers. Wanted to do all the ball joints before i put new beam on. 2 on the beam looks quite ******.
 
not sure what they like to get out on vw's but if they are anything like they are on lincoln towncars and h2 hummers then they will be a pain , usually removed with a few choice swear words thrown in :oops:
 
To replace the ball joints, there is no way round it but a serious press to remove and then refit new ball joints into the trailing arm. If you use the services of an engineering workshop who are not familiar with Bay Window trailing arms make sure that you tell them that they only fit one way. There are 2 notches in the replacement ball joints that must point exactly front and back. Look at the old ones before they are removed. If they get it wrong then your suspension and steering are in trouble. More so if it is lowered.
 
Bit of a curve ball but didn't Cool Air sell the trailing arms all painted up with new ball joints on an exchange basis for pretty good money.

Just took a look at their site and can't see it but I'm sure I saw this in one of the mags a little while ago. Could be worth a call....
 
Alzy said:
Yea 99.95 all in for four reconned trailing arms and new joints! Not sure if they`re still doing them though :?:

Rang them today now £120 and about 4 week turn around.

Talked to a friend today and he tells me he has got a press in his garage 8) :p and shouldnt be a problem.
 
You can get the ball joints out in about 2 or 3 minutes each, without a press, but you will need a press to refit them.

When I did mine (all 4) I had access to a 40 tonnes press, and couldn't press them out. They are a right sod without the correct jig to hold the arms still/steady.

This is how I got mine out.
1. With angle grinder, grind the back off of ball joint. (Mind the arm, grind ball joint only).
2. The above will then allow you to knock the swivel pin through and out, leaving just the outer ring / shell. (This also alows you to knock off the camber bush, from the top 2)
3. Carefully with a hacksaw inserted through ring, cut through ring/shell only (NOT the ball joint arm). You may need to do this opposite each other. The ring/shell will then collapse in on its self, and fall out, leaving just the bare torsion arm.
By the 4th one, it took me about 2 or 3 minutes to do.

The new ones went in nicely with the 40 ton press.

J :)
 

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