beam adjusters fouling gear shift rod

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jammac

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I'm getting dropped spindles so I've got to raise my beam back to stock height and then adjust down. Only thing is the top adjuster is currently I tiny bit clear of the gea shift rod. If I move it it will foul. I think I've heard this coming up as an issue before? Is the solution just to mark up the gear shift where it fouls, cut a section from the top and weld back in a. flat piece? Or is there something I'm missing?

It's a 70bay with the 2 serated plates as adjusters

Cheers
 
I had the same issue. I've adjusted as far as I dare then sawn off part of the adjusted bolt!!! Your solution would seem more elegant (but more effort).
 
I haven't got any pictures to hand but essentially the answer is yes.

On mine I had to cut a complete section out and weld it below, I made a jig up so the 'ends' remained in the sam place whilst I cut and shut the middle section...

I could probably get a pic if you needed one?
 
This was the previous owner's solution on my bus....

Image0235.jpg


:lol:
 
I've been mulling this over, it would seem to
Me that the best solution is to weld in an adjuster 180 degrees round from the existing one then drill a new dimple in the torsion leaves 180 degrees round & move the torsion leaf collet round 180 degrees. Make sense??? (beer & red wine are currently clouding my mind lol).
 
Loxy said:
I've been mulling this over, it would seem to
Me that the best solution is to weld in an adjuster 180 degrees round from the existing one then drill a new dimple in the torsion leaves 180 degrees round & move the torsion leaf collet round 180 degrees. Make sense??? (beer & red wine are currently clouding my mind lol).

I've seen this done somewhere before, can't remember where though. You would'nt need to drill a dimple in the leaves just rotate them 180.
 
Thinking about in now 1 in the middle is easier than 2 as the leaves are so hard. You would have to remove the old adjuster too and weld the slot up or you won't have much metal in the centre of the tube.
 
When I had my Fosky style adjuster fitted, Dan at Bus Werkes fitted welded it further round the top tube so that it wouldn't foul the selector rod. The only problem with that is the adjusters pinch bolt rests up against the heater duct under the cab floor so I can't get it any lower atm :x But I'll get under there one day soon and re shape the duct a little with a ball pein hammer to allow the adjuster up more :mrgreen:

Karl
 
I found this post & thought I'd chip in to see if it helps somebody (I'm sure others have done this but I haven't seen any pics) & also to see if I can manage to upload some pics.
(So if there are no pics - I failed.)

I too found that with the beam adjuster set at max height it fouled the gear change linkage.
Something had to be done. First I laid under the bus & marked linkage to see how much I had to chop out.
I made a simple jig to mount the linkage & bent some bar to suite. To save calculating bend radii etc. I bent the metal & then cut the tube. With the linkage mounted in the jig, & blocks supporting the bar, I welded it all together.
It seems to have worked out OK & there's plenty of clearance all round.
(Incidentally the bar metal was a recycled fire poker sword which I made in metalwork at school. Therefore a rough calc. on the age of the metal also makes it about the same age as my '71 bus. Almost OG part.)

DSCN3152.jpg

DSCN3153.jpg


I hope you get my drift.

Phil.
 
A mate who's done a fair few buses just welds a length of u-channel along the gearshift rod (effectively making it double height, if you see what I mean?) and then cuts out a section of the original rod where required. Seems to work well and no need for jigs etc.
 
nice 1 Phil. i went for the lazy method though and gave the gear selecter a good beating with a hammer and all works as it should now :D :msn4:
 

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