CLUTCH IS DOING MY HEAD IN!!!!

[Wishart]

Help!

Ok, quick summary: Thought my clutch cable had snapped as feeling/resistance had gone from the pedal. It hadnt. Pedal hits floor but springs back up - so ended up pulling engine and finding this...

Release bearing was definatley worn, and was not 'clipped' onto release arm, no apparent damage to rest of clutch. We pulled this bit of worn/mangled metal from the teethed bits on the pressure plate!

Not sure where it came from??

SO, in my haste, I bought this style of release bearing from GSF (only one of two kinds) and it suits the release arm but didnt sit snug when the clips were put on. Very loose in fact.

So we trimmed the clips a bit and tightened them so they held it tighter. That was it, and we put the engine back in. Pedal freeplay was still excessive but it was 'biting' at the bottom so tightened the wingnut right up but no change.

Next day, fired the engine up, selected first and drove happily off the driveway. Put it in reverse with no problem and put it back on drive. Pedal freeplay is now normal (seemed to do it by itself!!!!!!) Push the pedal down a few times and get a kind of click feel at the bottom and sure enough it goes "pop". Back to square 1!!!!!!! No feeling in pedal cant select gears :evil: Definately felt like the release bearing had slipped or something.

What can i do? Between me and Bobley, we reckon that we need to upgrade all the components so that they work with this newer release bearing? The clutch kits dont seem to have ALL the bits so are they worth it? Im baffled and im tired of it :| Gonna try to drop the engine AGAIN this weekend if we can be sure of how we're going to fix it.

 

[froggy]

Make sure the clutch kit you fit is the 'pad type'
On the spring plate there should be a pad that the release bearing pushes against, it sounds like you might have a later type clutch fitted (the type without a pad) and the release bearing works until the springs have ripped the release bearing face off.
With the type of release bearing you have fitted (and the release bearing arm/shaft) it should be pad type clutch (beleive me i've become a clutch expert just lately) and guess what, the pad type clutch is more expensive out of the 2 200mm kits available

 

[Wishart]

Make sure the clutch kit you fit is the 'pad type'
On the spring plate there should be a pad that the release bearing pushes against, it sounds like you might have a later type clutch fitted (the type without a pad) and the release bearing works until the springs have ripped the release bearing face off.
With the type of release bearing you have fitted (and the release bearing arm/shaft) it should be pad type clutch (beleive me i've become a clutch expert just lately) and guess what, the pad type clutch is more expensive out of the 2 200mm kits available

thanks froggy Ive come to the same conclusion!

But i am thinking to replace the whole clutch now, all new, all the right parts and new cable etc.... the lot! I cant be doing with trying to match new bits to old bits a week before a show :lol:

 

[froggy]

http://www.vwheritage.com/vwh/Bus-Parts-1968-79/Gearbox-Clutch/Clutch-Parts/?templateID=vwh

If you look at the pictures the clutch shown is the type without the pad which has a different release bearing. As said the with pad type is more expensive but if it is the type you need then i would also fit the uprated release bearing clips as the normal clips have been known to fail.

 

[Wishart]

also having problems locating the correct release arm :roll:

(taken from my post on vzi)

Almost a result....

Been chatting to Machine7 this morning about the parts I need, and we are unsure about the release arm. Their products range quite abit over the '68-'70..... 08/70-10/71..... 11/71-72..... Now im fairly sure the one i want is the 68-70 as all the other bits im buying are the earliest for Bays. But the dude at Machine7 wasnt sure that it would be correct without having the old one out (its still in the bus!)

This is what i have...

This is what i THINK i need...

This is what Machine7 think i need...

Now the two arms look very different as the longer part of the shaft is on different sides and also the earlier one has the notches in the rear of the arms for the clips, as does my existing one

*EDIT* Or is it that the item is upside down?

I want to order all the correct parts in one go, so i dont have to sit and wait with the engine out again!

 

[froggy]

I was told (by kingfisher kustoms) that there are only 2 types of arm for a bus, the earlier type (16mm with a 14mm tapered end and a 20mm with a 18mm? end)
If yours is an early bay, and looking at the parts you already have it is, then its the 16mm one that you need (this is what i fitted) the 216.120.20