cv joints
- Thread starter robins
- Start date
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Bookwus
Well-known member
Hiya Rich,
This is not a tough job, but it is an almost unbearably filthy one. Be prepared to burn your clothes after you finish up.
First off...........make sure you have THE proper tool for loosening those CV bolts. Later models had 12 pointers, earlier models used allens. They must fit like the proverbial glove or you risk stripping them out. And to that end, make sure the inside of the bolt head is scrupulously clean.
If you are out to buy new ones spend your cash on Lubro (I think that's the maker) good German quality.
CVs must be put on the half shaft correctly and if you disassemble them they can go back together correctly and incorrectly. Make sure you know which way is correct and which is not. You really need a good technical shop manual (Bentley) at this point.
Make sure your new CVs are thoroughly greased with moly-grease. Don't get economical with the grease either. Some extra grease on the CV and into the boot is a good thing.
Get good German CV boots. If the boots tear all the work you have done up to that point starts to go downhill quickly as the CV gets exposed to road dirt and moisture.
Best advice is to get that shop manual for the entire procedure. Besides, you can use it for maintaining the rest of your bus.
This is not a tough job, but it is an almost unbearably filthy one. Be prepared to burn your clothes after you finish up.
First off...........make sure you have THE proper tool for loosening those CV bolts. Later models had 12 pointers, earlier models used allens. They must fit like the proverbial glove or you risk stripping them out. And to that end, make sure the inside of the bolt head is scrupulously clean.
If you are out to buy new ones spend your cash on Lubro (I think that's the maker) good German quality.
CVs must be put on the half shaft correctly and if you disassemble them they can go back together correctly and incorrectly. Make sure you know which way is correct and which is not. You really need a good technical shop manual (Bentley) at this point.
Make sure your new CVs are thoroughly greased with moly-grease. Don't get economical with the grease either. Some extra grease on the CV and into the boot is a good thing.
Get good German CV boots. If the boots tear all the work you have done up to that point starts to go downhill quickly as the CV gets exposed to road dirt and moisture.
Best advice is to get that shop manual for the entire procedure. Besides, you can use it for maintaining the rest of your bus.
aogrady
Well-known member
robins said:
Not yet Rich! But I'm watching this topic, as i'll need to do the boots very soon! Is it a mot fail anyone know btw?
Alistair
aogrady
Well-known member
Yeah, mine passed last time like this - and the battery tray too....................
Fingers crossed this time round
Alistair
Did all four of mine the other day. Got GKN ones from GSF - complete kit with joint, boots and bolts). Unbolted the 6 bolts at each end, wangled the shaft out. Bolted the shaft in a vice with soft jaws. Proceded to disassemble the boot and get the circlip off the end, took ages to get the boot off and drift the inner part of the joint off the shaft. I then realised that if you undo the spring clip off the boot and remove the circlip then you can just knock the whole thing off the shaft with a soft faced mallet. Much less messy.
Once I had both joints off I cleaned the rest of the shaft and painted the shaft.
Reassembly was much easier. Put the inner boot clip on the shaft first, then the new boot, fit the joint and new circlip (noting which side of the joint has two grooves and which has one - dont put it on backwards). The new joint was quite tight onto the shaft so I drifted it on with a big socket. Then squeezed the whole tube of grease in to the joint (right into the gaps with any left over going in the boot) and then slid the boot over the joint and nipped up the inner boot clip. You wont get the new boot to go right onto the joint but I didn't worry about it becasue when you torque up the joint in situ the torque of the bolts and the spreader washers pulled it all together. Looked really nice afterwards.
Once I had both joints off I cleaned the rest of the shaft and painted the shaft.
Reassembly was much easier. Put the inner boot clip on the shaft first, then the new boot, fit the joint and new circlip (noting which side of the joint has two grooves and which has one - dont put it on backwards). The new joint was quite tight onto the shaft so I drifted it on with a big socket. Then squeezed the whole tube of grease in to the joint (right into the gaps with any left over going in the boot) and then slid the boot over the joint and nipped up the inner boot clip. You wont get the new boot to go right onto the joint but I didn't worry about it becasue when you torque up the joint in situ the torque of the bolts and the spreader washers pulled it all together. Looked really nice afterwards.
