Disc Brakes

Early Bay Forum

Help Support Early Bay Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

aircured

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 16, 2008
Messages
143
Reaction score
0
Location
The Capital of Englandshire - York
I had a few replies regarding changing the front drums to discs.
But am still not sure what the difference is... :oops: may need someone to give it too me in laymans terms :shock:

Can I fit latebay discs and calipers etc... to an early bay....and if so, then what modification am I looking at :?:
What is the difference in spindles :oops: and what changes would it make fitting latebay to an earlybay....

Sorry to be a pain :evil:
 
You need to change everything not just the drums for the disk brakes...

There are also diskbrake-sets avaliable for 5 x 205 PCD. Check CoolAir! Those sets are expensive... :? :shock:
 
As surfbus says, you need to change everything from the ball joint. The spindles have a different size bearing between the early and late bay, hence the dia of the spindle is different.

However porsche 944 hubs are the same bearing size as an early spindle and hence would fit your spindles, buts that's another topic!
 
keeping the 205x5 pattern is why it gets so expensive, if your changing to 112 or porsche patterns its alot cheaper
 
Not when you consider the wheel change too, carry two spares or change the rear drums to match your complete new set?
 
In order to change to late 112 pattern do you?

Change the spindles for later ones, add late discs and calipers, then to change the rear to late can you just add late drums and backing plates?
 
faux said:
In order to change to late 112 pattern do you?

Change the spindles for later ones, add late discs and calipers, then to change the rear to late can you just add late drums and backing plates?

I think that is correct
 
its not simple, Im going the Porsche brake route still not simple, when you consider what i needed, mine is a 1969 bus so has drum brake all round, so far i have had to get

Porshe 944 calipers
Porsche 944 Hubs
Hub adaptor bracket
Porsche wheels (still to get)
new Disks
New Pads
New brake line
new servo

and later on i will be fitting a remote servo, as youcannot retro fit a later servo to a drum brake bus.

for the rear you can just fit Porsche adaptors.

when you consider the cost of a CSP disk kit, its not that bad!
 
i have a pair of good used discs, hubs and spindles going for £30 if you choose to go down this route. probably best to meet up rather than post, but you get alot of metal for £30. probably best to change the bearing, as i dont know how old it is.

Let me know

NaFe
 
A friend of mine here (my engine builder) got a pair of Wagenswest 73-79 disk brake dropped spindles set up on an early bay (68-69) narrowed beam, logged thousands of trouble free miles with it. The late bay rear suspensions are cheap as chips, depends on how bad you want to keep the 5X205 lug pattern that's where the cost increases in the front. The calipers have to be ground down to fit the original 14" early bay or the 15" split bus rims. I have a 1970 single cab that I want to do this conversion to, keeping the 205 bolt pattern. I have a full set of 944 brakes/arms but am leary of leaving all VW type 2 components!
 
Sorry if this is a pointless post. I'm not that much of an expert on EBs but I've got an EB beam in my split. I've put 944 turbo brakes all round with a T2D dual circuit MC (no servo). I've been driving it about for the last week or so and its okay but its certainly not good by modern car standards.

By comparison I jumped in my stock 65 crew cab and drove that (first time in six months) and when I hit the pedal it threw me into the dashboard. Drums are much better in terms of pressure vs stopping power. Disks only come into their element when you've got a servo and you need the improved heat dissipation for repeated stopping power.
 
That's interesting, I know if I cut the engine on my bay and drop the anchor (servo & front discs) it takes a lot of foot to bring it to a stop.

I wonder how that would compare to drums... I've only ever had the comparison in a split after fitting CSP
discs and although there was an improvement it didn't feel like almost a 1000 €s worth.
 
Joval said:
That's interesting, I know if I cut the engine on my bay and drop the anchor (servo & front discs) it takes a lot of foot to bring it to a stop.

I wonder how that would compare to drums... I've only ever had the comparison in a split after fitting CSP
discs and although there was an improvement it didn't feel like almost a 1000 €s worth.

THe remedy here is simple, first replace your check valve (cheap.) If that doesn't help, replace your servo or have it rebuilt. A bay with discs AND a good servo stops so fast it would make a Porsche blush! My dad had a 78 Westy that was maintained by the dealer all the way up to 1990, and then by an independent garage with nothing but old school German factory trained mechanics. THey tested the damn thing as if it was a 2 year old Carrera GT. THe servo started going, so they recommended a new ATE unit be installed, and he did it...all $600 of it or whatever silly amount it cost. With the proper 6 ply Michelin tires I could swear I felt the back tires come off the ground (JK!) but it stopped better than 90% of all the cars I've driven since. Same thing with a 74 Westy that came through, went to Johnson Autoworks. THe old boy built it for a trans Canadian trek, every piece of brakes and running gear bolted to that chassis was new or NOS. Every bolt, every spring, every bearing, even a brand new ATE servo. Same thing; your rear passengers better belt in or hang the **** on or they're getting a face full of cabinetry!

Here's another observation for your consideration...I break bays. Tons of them. Probably broke up 100 of them. I saved the servos from the last 40 or so, and just got round to testing them last week. Out of ALL those servos, 4 were good. One was new, 71 Deluxe that came in with it. I'm saving that one for my 71 panel. THe other ones look crusty but all have a visible ATE sticker, meaning they got a replacement instead of ignoring the loss of brake power. I can drive with just the handbrake, just a matter of mental preparation, I had a 58 bus that my girlfriend actually poured brake fluid into the reservoir through the access hole in the floor while we were driving every 40 miles because I didn't feel like rebuilding the wheel cylinders (watch out when buying a mechanic's car!) This is probably why about 1 in 10 buses had a good servo, no good other reason to drive around with a bad one unless you are used to it.

The best stopping bus however was that same neglected 58. I worked at a garage, and one of the guys there was an old timer named 'Smitty' and he helped me do the brakes. I bought ALL new German cylinders, new German lines, new German front drums with resurfaced rears, new German master cylinder with reservoir. THe brake parts alone were $700, and that was a months salary for me in 1991! After Smitty and I went through them, the bus stopped better than any other VW I've driven. Two of my friends still talk about the brakes on that 58. Drums win? Discs win? As long as you are willing to spend the money for good factory parts then either is good enough for me. Sorry for the long read...my guess is that if you made it this far you probably don't mind.
 
and later on i will be fitting a remote servo, as youcannot retro fit a later servo to a drum brake bus.
axl - I dont understand why not?? only reason I can think is not having a servo mounting plate?
I have a 944 s2 servo with a pushrod that I fitted to my 70 bay. Its no longer required so up for grabs if your interested....problem with the remote servos (aside from expense) is they are often singel circuit. if you used my set up then you use the porsche MC piggybacked on the porsche servo retaining duel circuit which is much safer.

not trying to big up my servo for a sale - but its surplus due to upgrade - if your interested PM me and i can explain more - only after £20 plus post. Machining cost me more than that!!!
 
woodslat said:
Joval said:
That's interesting, I know if I cut the engine on my bay and drop the anchor (servo & front discs) it takes a lot of foot to bring it to a stop.

I wonder how that would compare to drums... I've only ever had the comparison in a split after fitting CSP
discs and although there was an improvement it didn't feel like almost a 1000 €s worth.

THe remedy here is simple...

Keep the motor running? :D

It ('71 bay) brakes great when the servo is in use, I was just comparing discs to drums, without servo assistance, ;)
 
Joval said:
woodslat said:
Joval said:
That's interesting, I know if I cut the engine on my bay and drop the anchor (servo & front discs) it takes a lot of foot to bring it to a stop.

I wonder how that would compare to drums... I've only ever had the comparison in a split after fitting CSP
discs and although there was an improvement it didn't feel like almost a 1000 €s worth.

THe remedy here is simple...

Keep the motor running? :D

It ('71 bay) brakes great when the servo is in use, I was just comparing discs to drums, without servo assistance, ;)

With the motor off, you should get two or three fantastic powerful stops, your check valve is probably bad if they work great with the engine running only. Here they are dirt cheap, here's wolfgang's page:

http://www.wolfgangint.com/Parts/Brake+Servo/Type+2/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

or if you absolutely have to shop with them

http://www.justkampers.com/shop/type_2_bay/type-2-bay-original-vehicle-parts/braking-system/servo-units/brake-vacuum-non-return-valve-on-servo-hose.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

We built a hose attachment for my vacuum tester to bench test the servos, just a series of hose fittings if you want to check that too! Good luck!
 

Latest posts

Top