Early Bay Not Hot Starting

[joyce]

Hi All,

We have had Joyce, our 71 early bay for 5 years now. She has a 1600 with twin 34 webber carbs.
Over the last year or so she has developed a problem where if we go out for 1/2 and hour or so and she is warmed up and we stop, she will not start again. It's really annoying as we have to wait a good few hours or so for her to start again.
I have also had this issue if she is left idling after 10 mins or so she will gradually stop and again we cannot start her.

We are running the original fuel pump, no mods just straight as it comes.

I think it could be fuel evaporation...
Maybe change to an electronic fuel pump, but which one would fit?
Maybe change the ignition coil?

If anyone has had this issue or can assist we would be very grateful.

Many Thanks
Rich

 

[Mags]

I've been chasing down something similar but I have a stock 1600 setup. Eventually when it wouldn't start last weekend (and stunk of fuel) I found no spark when turning over and I'm just about to swap the old elec ignition in the dizzy for points just to see if this resolved it. It was odd and only seemed to happen on a hot restart, it didn't exhibit loose wire type problems and most other components are new/swapped (coil/dizzy/leads/plugs/carb/pump etc)
Do you know if you are getting a spark and/or fuel when cranking over and this happens? Assuming your engine cranks over fine? does it smell of fuel?

 

[ozziedog]

I've been chasing down something similar but I have a stock 1600 setup. Eventually when it wouldn't start last weekend (and stunk of fuel) I found no spark when turning over and I'm just about to swap the old elec ignition in the dizzy for points just to see if this resolved it. It was odd and only seemed to happen on a hot restart, it didn't exhibit loose wire type problems and most other components are new/swapped (coil/dizzy/leads/plugs/carb/pump etc)
Do you know if you are getting a spark and/or fuel when cranking over and this happens? Assuming your engine cranks over fine? does it smell of fuel?

check your valve clearances, little buggers expand when warm

ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,well i never :mrgreen:

 

[creationblue]

Usually the symptoms of hot start is that the engine turns real slow and wont fire, this is because the wire that switches the solenoid into action wont allow the current through as the resistance builds up when hot as the wire runs the whole length of the bus. You say the bus cuts out and wont start?

 

[sparkywig]

Do the dash lights come on?
Is there a click when you turn the key?
Does the engine turn?

 

[mike202]

I had a similar problem a while ago, the engine would turn over but not start when hot. It started off being difficult to start before eventually not starting at a motorway services [emoji38]
It turned out to be the tappet adjustment was right out


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[mike202]

Also called valve clearances as pointed out above.


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[atafonso]

I've been chasing down something similar but I have a stock 1600 setup. Eventually when it wouldn't start last weekend (and stunk of fuel) I found no spark when turning over and I'm just about to swap the old elec ignition in the dizzy for points just to see if this resolved it. It was odd and only seemed to happen on a hot restart, it didn't exhibit loose wire type problems and most other components are new/swapped (coil/dizzy/leads/plugs/carb/pump etc)
Do you know if you are getting a spark and/or fuel when cranking over and this happens? Assuming your engine cranks over fine? does it smell of fuel?

It looks like it's flooding to me, try a simple test: floor the accelerator and start the Bus while keeping the pedal fully depressed. If it starts, you know it's flooding, then check your float level, needle valve or fuel pump pressure.
Abel

 

[Mags]

I've been chasing down something similar but I have a stock 1600 setup. Eventually when it wouldn't start last weekend (and stunk of fuel) I found no spark when turning over and I'm just about to swap the old elec ignition in the dizzy for points just to see if this resolved it. It was odd and only seemed to happen on a hot restart, it didn't exhibit loose wire type problems and most other components are new/swapped (coil/dizzy/leads/plugs/carb/pump etc)
Do you know if you are getting a spark and/or fuel when cranking over and this happens? Assuming your engine cranks over fine? does it smell of fuel?

It looks like it's flooding to me, try a simple test: floor the accelerator and start the Bus while keeping the pedal fully depressed. If it starts, you know it's flooding, then check your float level, needle valve or fuel pump pressure.
Abel

Hi, I don't think you read my post fully, I had no spark, Unless you are referring to the OP post
This weekend I threw away the EMPI :roll: electronic ignition module I fitted about 12 years ago and put in a new set of points. As soon as I started the bus I knew there was difference, once warmed up the idle was rock solid, fluctuating by only about 20rpm on my hand held digital rpm counter.
I have never seen the idle this solid, it always fluctuated by maybe 100rpm or even more and I've always struggled with getting the carb set right, now the idle is better I will try this again.
But before I've even done this the difference on the road is very noticeable, the bus drives much smoother and has better pick-up and close to zero hesitation. I'm hoping I can re-set the carb and improve this even more. I'm quite shocked at the difference, I've never had the bus run this well and seeing as I put the electronic ignition module in pretty much immediately on buying the bus I can't believe it.

Anyway, I've totally hijacked the OP's problem although I'd suggest you check for spark when you are not sparking. Take a spare spark plug with you and when she doesn't start pull the cap off one of the plugs, plug in the spare plug and using a pair of insulated pliers hold the plug with the end touching an earth (I touched a tinware screw, this worked) and see if you have a good spark, if you do you know its a fuel problem.

 

[atafonso]

I've been chasing down something similar but I have a stock 1600 setup. Eventually when it wouldn't start last weekend (and stunk of fuel) I found no spark when turning over and I'm just about to swap the old elec ignition in the dizzy for points just to see if this resolved it. It was odd and only seemed to happen on a hot restart, it didn't exhibit loose wire type problems and most other components are new/swapped (coil/dizzy/leads/plugs/carb/pump etc)
Do you know if you are getting a spark and/or fuel when cranking over and this happens? Assuming your engine cranks over fine? does it smell of fuel?

It looks like it's flooding to me, try a simple test: floor the accelerator and start the Bus while keeping the pedal fully depressed. If it starts, you know it's flooding, then check your float level, needle valve or fuel pump pressure.
Abel

Hi, I don't think you read my post fully, I had no spark, Unless you are referring to the OP post
This weekend I threw away the EMPI :roll: electronic ignition module I fitted about 12 years ago and put in a new set of points. As soon as I started the bus I knew there was difference, once warmed up the idle was rock solid, fluctuating by only about 20rpm on my hand held digital rpm counter.
I have never seen the idle this solid, it always fluctuated by maybe 100rpm or even more and I've always struggled with getting the carb set right, now the idle is better I will try this again.
But before I've even done this the difference on the road is very noticeable, the bus drives much smoother and has better pick-up and close to zero hesitation. I'm hoping I can re-set the carb and improve this even more. I'm quite shocked at the difference, I've never had the bus run this well and seeing as I put the electronic ignition module in pretty much immediately on buying the bus I can't believe it.

Anyway, I've totally hijacked the OP's problem although I'd suggest you check for spark when you are not sparking. Take a spare spark plug with you and when she doesn't start pull the cap off one of the plugs, plug in the spare plug and using a pair of insulated pliers hold the plug with the end touching an earth (I touched a tinware screw, this worked) and see if you have a good spark, if you do you know its a fuel problem.

Sorry, probably age is catching up :roll: :mrgreen:
Glad you found the problem.
Abel

 

[VeeDubMan]

If you've got a mechanical fuel pump and twin 34ICT's, make sure the fuel pump isn't over fuelling the carbs. The carbs only like 3-4 psi and the pump can put out a lot more than that leading to issues.

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