Engine advice - is this ok?

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markevo30

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I've just taken the heads off to replace all the pushrod tubes because of leaks and this is what I've found.
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There's a bit of oil in the bores, is this excessive? Do the heads look ok?

This is the first time I've done this so I'm not sure what it should look like.

Thanks,

Mark




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As it's this far apart, then a de-glaze/hone and a new set of rings isn't a bad idea!!

What's the endfloat like??
 
Thanks Paul. You're probably right it does look like new rings wouldn't go amiss. There is a bit of end float but nothing excessive. I intend to borrow a dial gauge and try and shim it within spec. I've got to replace the crankshaft oil seal anyway.


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Make sure it's not actually the thrust bearing moving in the case...you'll need the flywheel off to see...

Push the pulley towards the flywheel end, then watching the bearing, pull it back... If the bearing doesn't move then try pushing it back into the case

No movement = win

Bearing moving = time for a full strip and line bore
 
I am a winner! I've just done the bearing test and it doesn't move at all.

I did find something a bit strange when removing the flywheel. There was a shim between the flywheel and the crank (see photo). Should there be one? I can't see one shown in any of the manuals. This effectively introduces end float. I've bolted the flywheel back on with the three shims fitted but without this rogue shim and it seems perfect. The crank spins freely but I won't be able to measure the end float until I borrow and dial gauge but things are looking good.

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No shims used on cranks with o-ring (installed at factory since mid-1966 according to the forum topic here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=527020" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ),
Someone probably just put it on because it was in the gasket kit, and hated to see it go to waste . . . ).
 
If it still spins, then I would say that the shim was the issue

As above, they come in some gasket sets, but are for early engines :cool:
 
Did you do a compression test before the strip down?
Always gives a good idea of top end conditions. Seems to be running a bit rich but not burning oil, which is good. As the guys say, a de-glaze, decoke, valve & guide inspection then replace & lap them in. Jobs a good un!
 

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