Gearbox oil

[Huyrob]

Got the bus up on ramps (rear end up ).
Have sent for the 17 mm allen socket so all good.
Question .... should the van be level to check the oil level? Would be hard to do without her raised.
Don’t intend to replace oil ( should I ? ) have seen info to check top up plug before taking out drain plug.
Thanks
If oil low what is recommended?

 

[ozziedog]

Hiya, do you have any idea when the last time it really was changed ? If not, for a couple of quid that may save your box, just change it. As you’ve mentioned above, make double sure that you can loosen the filler bung before you take out the drain plug. And yes, it should be level so maybe try and raise the front too but in a safe manner. Not a good time to start using half a concrete block two pieces of ply and that trusty old chunk of four by two on one side and a pile of bricks on the other. Decent axle stands are worth a lot more than a gearbox or your head.
Ozziedog,,,,,,,, don’t mix just change :mrgreen:

 

[sparkywig]

As ozzie says, if you can't remember when the oil was last changed it's probably time to replace it.
Get the engine and gearbox hot before draining the oil, and check that you can undo the filler plug on the side of the gearbox before undoing the drain plug.
Ideally the gearbox should be level when filling, and use standard EP 80/90 gear oil.

 

[ozziedog]

This is gonna get like a double act innit, like them two old farts on the muppet show :lol:
Someone mentioned to me one time that getting the gearbox oil good and hot as ^^^ Senor Wiggy says above, well what I was told was that there’d had a few issues with trying to loosen the plugs on the box, but once they’d got it good and hot and straight on the ramps, the plugs came out much easier. Not tried it myself with stubborn plugs but it sounds plausible :shock: :shock: :shock:

Ozziedog,,,,,,, big word for a Saturday morning innit :mrgreen:

 

[Huyrob]

Thanks Sparky and Ozzie for the advice. I’ve no idea when the oil was changed and I’ve done about 12,000 miles so will change it.
It would be great if I can keep her on the ramps and jack up the front onto axle stands to level up and then start engine to warm up ( presumably the gearbox heats up by conduction ?
I’ve got good ramps (Photo) but can you see any problem with me raising the front, presumably keep the chocks on rear wheel and handbrake on.
I totally accept responsibility for my actions, but another’s view is also helpful.

 

[sparkywig]

You'll need to drive it to get the gearbox oil hot, it won't warm up idling.
I can't see any issue with you jacking the front up while on axle stands, I normally stick some pieces of 6"x3" timber through the ramp in front of the wheels.

 

[ozziedog]

I can’t see an issue with driving onto those lovely looking substantial ramps and then jacking the front and using axle stands, but I would get the gearbox oil warmed first, you might have to do five or ten miles to warm the box oil. But then straight onto the ramps and Jack the front up and get the axle stands in nicely and I usually leave the Jack there as well. Then there’s no need to leave it running. Way too easy to do something undesirable on your back and under the bus with the motor running, easy to burn yourself too and that ain’t nice :shock: Hot oil, running motor , something goes wrong, it’s gonna get nasty.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,different ball game stood up and it’s on a ramp :mrgreen:

 

[Huyrob]

Thanks again fellas for the advice, much appreciated

 

[mike202]

Remember it’s GL4 oil you need either mineral or synthetic



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[Huyrob]

Thanks Mike
Just ordered some millers oil80/90 gl4. £40 for 5 litres delivered which seemed a good price.

 

[Tofufi]

For what it's worth, I drove 12 miles on the weekend.

I checked out my gearbox oil afterwards due to gearbox trouble (turned out to be worn front mounts) and the oil was warm but not hot enough to burn me

 

[ozziedog]

So what do you think is a reasonable run to get it hot then Jim? Or does yours have a little more secret cooling to go with the extra cogg ? :lol:
Is any warmed up box better than a cold box ? I’m guessing it must be, Or does it need to get to umpteen degrees? I’ve never really checked my box temp, I could do that next weekend if I get bored, but I could really do with changing mine as well.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,another on the ‘to do ‘list :mrgreen:

 

[gas1man]

I left mine open overnight with the bucket underneath. Was empty by the next afternoon.
No heat needed and at a slight incline to get the most out I could.

J & P

 

[sparkywig]

If the oil is hot all the impurities, etc are in suspension and will drain out of the gearbox.
If the oil is cold all the impurities will have settled to the bottom of the gearbox and will contaminate the clean oil, making an oil change pointless.

 

[gas1man]

If the oil is hot all the impurities, etc are in suspension and will drain out of the gearbox.
If the oil is cold all the impurities will have settled to the bottom of the gearbox and will contaminate the clean oil, making an oil change pointless.

OK I get it , will do so next change thank you.

J & P

 

[Tofufi]

So what do you think is a reasonable run to get it hot then Jim? Or does yours have a little more secret cooling to go with the extra cogg ? :lol:
Is any warmed up box better than a cold box ? I’m guessing it must be, Or does it need to get to umpteen degrees? I’ve never really checked my box temp, I could do that next weekend if I get bored, but I could really do with changing mine as well.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,another on the ‘to do ‘list :mrgreen:

I don't know what constitutes hot enough to get the oil circulating and ensure the dirt particles are in suspension.

I don't have any additional cooling in my gearbox for the extra cog. My 12 mile drive was all lower speed, perhaps a quick higher speed run would get it hotter

 

[Moseley]

The heat isn’t really about getting settled particulates moving, that will be done once all the gears start moving. Because gearbox oil is circulated in a splash format, it is quite vigorously dragged up from the bottom of the case and thrown onto the gears and bearings.

The requirement to heat engine oil / gearbox oil prior to draining is more about getting it to flow better. The hotter it is, the faster it drains, and therefore the less likely particulates will start to settle at the bottom of the case whilst it is being drained.


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[gvee]

Just a quick reminder: make sure you can undo the fillter plug before you drain the oil!

 

[ozziedog]

Jeeeez George, you’d spoil all our fun. That was the next thread we was waiting for :lol: :shock: :lol:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,Not really bud, George is spot on again :mrgreen:

 

[Huyrob]

Taking the advice given earlier I checked that both of the plugs could be removed, loosened them a touch then tightened them up. Rather than put the van on ramps and jack up the front to level off I spoke to my local Garage mechanic he agreed to do the change on his ramps last job of the day. Went for a nice 25 mile drive to warm the box and straight to garage. Couldn’t believe the state of the oil that came out, started of like black treacle and ended up with the dregs being frothy and watery. Mechanic was of the opinion that it may never have been changed.All changed with his very handy large suction pump.Charged me a tenner so no complaints!
Nice to know the box is full of nice new oil.