gearbox removal

[pottinger]

morning all

okay, i completed the renewal of my flange seals and my O rings and the
box is now completely leak free and luverly ! :lol: :roll:

Thing is, as i have everything off at the mo, ie CV's / clutch cable / starter motor / engine out etc etc
i was thinking i should take the box out and renew whatever part of the gear linkage i can :msn4: :roll: :?:

Firstly, is it just a mattter of undoing the linkage and the two mount bolts, pull back and its out ooh eeh :lol:

secondly, do i have to mark anything for the linkage side and what is the best way to do this job ??

Its not a necessity any of this but I have that bug that replace anything that I can whilst I can :roll:

Any advice guys

cheers
potts

 

[Doris]

Hi mate, Linkage meaning gear shift rod that runs the length of the bus? If so, yeah do it it's not a bad job. There is a couple of plastic bushes at the front under the gear stick, a couple inside the shift rod tunnel that look like little shuttle cocks,a rubber block in a metal cage type joint that joins the shift rod to the input shaft. The input shaft the goes through a brass and rubber bush on the nose cone. If ever there was a time to do the nose cone one, it's while the box is out and you can get to it. Once the gear shift rod it disconnected from the short rod at the front, the long rod just pulls through from the back.

Hth



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[pottinger]

If ever there was a time to do the nose cone one, it's while the box is out

:lol: i havent taken the box out yet, was just wondering if it was worthwhile and an easy job
to remove it ? I am a bit worried how you setup the gear rod on refitting etc :?

Presume if i did remove the box I can bolt it to my engine for refitting making life slightly easier
or harder maybe ??

potts

 

[Doris]

Won't give advice on setting up the gear selection,as I'm not 100% sure.someone will be along though.however I'd fit the box to the engine and fit it in one go.


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[67panel]

easy enough ,gearshift is held by tapered grub screw so you cant get it wrong :msn4: only adjustment is gearlever!!!! dont forget earth lead on front of box .can be easyer to fit box and engine in one go but makes it harder to balance on jack.

 

[pottinger]

does having twin carbs make it more difficult to re-install engine if it has the box attached to it ?? :msn4:
also the engine is out already so box extraction :lol: would be on its own - any tippies ??
ta
potts

 

[Trikky2]

does having twin carbs make it more difficult to re-install engine if it has the box attached to it ?? :msn4:
also the engine is out already so box extraction :lol: would be on its own - any tippies ??
ta
potts

If you have twin carbs then dont try fitting the box and engine in one go.

The carbs will foul on the chassis if you go in straight.

To fit the engine you will need to have it at an angle to wheel it in (about 45 degrees) and then strighten up as you raise it into position before finally engaging to the bell housing.

Theres nothing hard about removing the gearbox once the engine is out. Just make sure you dont lower the gearbox until its disengaged from the gear shift mechanism.

A manual like Haynes will tell you this procedure.

 

[pottinger]

ta fellas,
let ya know if i go ahead :lol: