How to put new wiringloom in

[Remon T2a]

Hello peeps,

got an new wiringloom voor the bus but was wandering how to put it in.
What is smart from the front to the back or the other way?
And is it smart to put something like grease on it?

 

[starbiscuit]

The section behind the dash can be replaced from under the dash with the instrument panel and glove box removed.
I started from the fusebox.

I did the section that goes downwards from the fusebox and the multiway connector (behind the kick panel) from under the bus upwards, having done the main run under the bus from the front backwards. Most of the rear-end connectors fit easily through all the chassis holes to the engine bay. I don't recall having to de-pin and re-pin any connectors other than the multi-way behind the kick panel. Not all the wires went through the same front-panel hole on mine; IDK if that was original but it made sense for the length of wires I had, so I did the same (horn, brake switch etc.). I terminated the main battery cable at the fuse box and from there to the light switch. I think originally it would have been the other way around; long run to light switch, short run back to fuse box. See how long your main battery wire is.

I didn't grease anything.

The main steel conduit tube had rotted out on mine so I removed it and cable tied my loom using small holes I drilled along the lower edge of the main chassis run.
Perhaps a length of welding wire or similar would help you get some nylon cord through your conduit tube and used that to pull through the wires from front to back. Tape them together (masking tape is easier to remove than duct tape) so there are no stragglers, but keep the overall size as small as possible (obviously).

Getting the engine-bay and rear light wires through the bulkhead grommet was a challenge, but grommets are required to prevent chafing, shorting and fires, so it's got to be done.

Inside the engine bay, one branch of wires goes via the regulator, generator and carb to the distributor (etc) and the other goes to the right rear light cluster, then up and over the engine door to the left light cluster.

HTH
Good luck
Rob

 

[Mr Bean]

If you're not to confident in what your doing it might help to cut the wires of your old loom leaving about 4" on everything so when you have your new loom in place you can match the wires up easily from the colours that's always assuming it's made to factory spec.

 

[Bluesnailman]

I don't recommend trying to pull it the full length of the chassis (as noted above). Id suggest buy a lenght of flexible conduit, and use some P clamps to fit it to chassis. I wrapped my cable, coated in vaseline and it took a few hours to get along the original conduit through the chassis. Having said that, I'd quite a few extra cables in my loom. However, it's not an experience I want to repeat

 

[Fyno]

I had no problems with mine took pics of everything totally stripped the old out cleaned everything up,new in. can’t see any reason why you need grease just take your time

1 Headlight / front indicators loom
2.Main loom
3.Brake loom
4.reverse light last

 

[Remon T2a]

I was already looking forward to this job.....;-)

 

[Papaski]

I just finished doing a complete wiring harness. Was scared shitless at first but was all that bad, just time consuming. Only pain was the overhead dome lights. Had to use soldering iron line to feel the wires through.