Idle help (again) with Video

[cunning plan]

ARRRRR, why wont this fuking thing idle????????????

Ive rebuilt the carb and set it up to the Bentley manual specifications but it still wont idle!!!!!!!!!

Turn your speakers up to listen properly:




Any ideas?

 

[Clarkson46]

I've got lots of ideas, but with nothing to go on they are meaningless. What carb is it, distributor type, engine spec etc. Are tappets set correctly, does the choke work? What is the timing set to? Is the carb set up properly on a hot engine.

 

[cunning plan]

I've got lots of ideas, but with nothing to go on they are meaningless. What carb is it, distributor type, engine spec etc. Are tappets set correctly, does the choke work? What is the timing set to? Is the carb set up properly on a hot engine.

Sorry sorry..

Single 34 PICT3

1600cc
Dissy not sure, will this pic help

Choke seems to work, when cold it and you push open the throttle it clicks the stepped choke to one of the taller teeth, run it for like 20-30 seconds and the choke does seem to go in quick..
Tappets I havent touched so should maby look into?
Timing I have no idea :roll:

Any help?

 

[RICH-I-AM]

2 things ive seen in the past. 1 fine slither of rubber (from fuel pipe)sitting on top of the needle valve blocking fuel to the float chamber. 2 wrong wire going to the fuel cut off switch in the side of the carb(needs to be a constant live,not a pulsing one as a result of taking live to the switch from wrong side of the coil).Would rev up but wouldnt idle below 1200rpm did that one myself

 

[cunning plan]

2 things ive seen in the past. 1 fine slither of rubber (from fuel pipe)sitting on top of the needle valve blocking fuel to the float chamber. 2 wrong wire going to the fuel cut off switch in the side of the carb(needs to be a constant live,not a pulsing one as a result of taking live to the switch from wrong side of the coil).Would rev up but wouldnt idle below 1200rpm did that one myself

I rebuilt the carb with a reconditioning kit from GSF so I hope the rubber thing isnt the issue. I also just tried running a constant 12v to the cut off valve and it sounded good for the first 15 seconds then just cuts out again..

Thanks for the ideas though..


:?

 

[steve92]

maybe check ya points gap. set mine too wide before and it ran for a bit like yours then cut out. also check ya spark plug gaps.

 

[Clarkson46]

This is just my opinion, but ditch the airfilter and return to stock, loose the dissy and again return to stock. Adjust your tappets. Invest in a timing light so you know that the dynamic timing is correct. Read this site.

http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[cunning plan]

Ok thanks guys, going to check the timing and points tonight

 

[cunning plan]

Ok, I have just decided to pull the engine out and have a GOOD look around it pull bits off and clean them up properly, the wiring is a mess in the van anyway AND I need to get to the fuel tank to do the sender job...

Anyway, I was thinking about what Clarkson said regarding returning the engine to stock and I read more into these 009 dissys.. I see their good and bad points so I was looking for the original dissy and found this

http://www.machine7.com/product.php?xProd=2927" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Is this the answer to alot of 009 problems. I am thinking the 009 may be one of the big issues with the engine (compression checking etc will be done when its out) so the upgrade to a Flamethrower dissy sounds like a good idea especially if I am going to be building a better engine in the future as im going to need a flamethrower anyway - so buy one now to potentially sort this engine with the intention of reusing the dissy on custom engine later?

Anyone have any information on these flamethrower dissys? It says electronic ignition so i figure that means no more points and crap?

 

[Guest]

the flame thrower is nice but your just buying a "better looking" standard dizzy with the electronics, if your dizzy is in good condition just buy the pertronix internals which are almost the same, and save your self money. the flame thrower is also bulkier and might not fit with some applications, i remember kombiporsche had to send his back as it wouldnt fit with in his 1776.

If money isnt an object id get the http://www.123ignition.nl, its not much more than the pertronix and looks a much better dizzy, built in static timing LED, 16 preset curves variable dwell etc.. check out the YOUtube video on the site, very interesting

 

[Anonymous]

The issue with the 009 is the lack of vaccuum advance, as far as I'm aware the Flamethrower is the same, whereas as the 123 has the option of a vac advance unit.
Another alternative would be a stock vac advance with a pertronix, but these come in at not much less than the 123...

 

[Guest]

Choke seems to work, when cold it and you push open the throttle it clicks the stepped choke to one of the taller teeth, run it for like 20-30 seconds and the choke does seem to go in quick..

your choke shouldnt go in that quick from cold? have you taken the airfliter off and looked at the position of the butterfly valve to make sure its open? is your engine getting enough time to warm up before it starts to cut out at idle?

can you take a look at the choke element? is it damaged? is the spring return damaged?

 

[cunning plan]

the flame thrower is nice but your just buying a "better looking" standard dizzy with the electronics, if your dizzy is in good condition just buy the pertronix internals which are almost the same, and save your self money. the flame thrower is also bulkier and might not fit with some applications, i remember kombiporsche had to send his back as it wouldnt fit with in his 1776.

If money isnt an object id get the http://www.123ignition.nl, its not much more than the pertronix and looks a much better dizzy, built in static timing LED, 16 preset curves variable dwell etc.. check out the YOUtube video on the site, very interesting

MmmMmm interesting... How much are they? Where are they sold in England I cant find a reseller...

Choke seems to work, when cold it and you push open the throttle it clicks the stepped choke to one of the taller teeth, run it for like 20-30 seconds and the choke does seem to go in quick..

your choke shouldnt go in that quick from cold? have you taken the airfliter off and looked at the position of the butterfly valve to make sure its open? is your engine getting enough time to warm up before it starts to cut out at idle?

can you take a look at the choke element? is it damaged? is the spring return damaged?

This is what I thought, the butterfly closes over ok when cold but as the choke opens up the butterfly stands up, seems a bit quick like litereally 15 seconds.. Thing is if i manually push the throttle linkage onto a higher step on the choke cam the engine begins to cough and splutter :?

Ive had the choke apart and it all seems fine with the spring in ok condition and the plastic thing okay..

 

[Anonymous]

MmmMmm interesting... How much are they? Where are they sold in England I cant find a reseller...

http://www.sciperformance.co.uk/onlineshopproducts_53353_49227.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[cunning plan]

MmmMmm interesting... How much are they? Where are they sold in England I cant find a reseller...

http://www.sciperformance.co.uk/onlineshopproducts_53353_49227.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thank you :roll: 8)

 

[Tofufi]

This is just my opinion, but ditch the airfilter and return to stock, loose the dissy and again return to stock. Adjust your tappets. Invest in a timing light so you know that the dynamic timing is correct. Read this site.

http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Agreed 100%

Even if you buy a new dizzy, if it isn't timed right it still won't run any better.

Start by checking the valves (tappets) and timing.

Then, ditch the crappy air filter and distributor. I'm running a secondhand distributor on my bay window - bought for £5 from Stanford hall show. The new ones are built down to a price, and aren't always that great (especially the non VW ones).

I dislike it when people try to improve the looks of their engines with tat like that air filter, which (IMO) not only look awful, but make the engine run worse too. Having said that, it looks like the OG air filter stand has been removed. You may have to rig something up to support a stock filter.

 

[cyberdyne systems]

The carb (34pict3) is notoriously difficult to use with anything but the correct 034 distributor. Common symptoms are poor idle and flat spots on acceleration.

Having said that it should still be possible to get it to work better than what you describe.

First thing I would do is go through the carb set up, make sure you adjust the 34 carb properly, there are two adjusting screws on the side - bypass (idle) and mixture. Make sure you didnt try and adjust idle from the throttle spindle set screw (the one that goes on the fast idle cam). Once you have a basic set up, then statically time the engine and start it and maybe drive it to fully warm it up. Then you can do a proper time with a light and then set the carb properly when the engine is warm. You have to set an 009 distributor at its maximum advance (aprox. 28 - 30 degree's) not at idle.

It could be that you have a bad choke coupled with some tune up issue's. The advice to go back to stock is also sound. The stock aircleaner will have a pre heat for the manifold as you problem might be icing up of the manifold just below the carb (check it when it stalls), also make sure the heat risers are connected and warming up too.

Hope this helps

Gareth

 

[cunning plan]

The carb (34pict3) is notoriously difficult to use with anything but the correct 034 distributor. Common symptoms are poor idle and flat spots on acceleration.

Having said that it should still be possible to get it to work better than what you describe.

First thing I would do is go through the carb set up, make sure you adjust the 34 carb properly, there are two adjusting screws on the side - bypass (idle) and mixture. Make sure you didnt try and adjust idle from the throttle spindle set screw (the one that goes on the fast idle cam). Once you have a basic set up, then statically time the engine and start it and maybe drive it to fully warm it up. Then you can do a proper time with a light and then set the carb properly when the engine is warm. You have to set an 009 distributor at its maximum advance (aprox. 28 - 30 degree's) not at idle.

It could be that you have a bad choke coupled with some tune up issue's. The advice to go back to stock is also sound. The stock aircleaner will have a pre heat for the manifold as you problem might be icing up of the manifold just below the carb (check it when it stalls), also make sure the heat risers are connected and warming up too.

Hope this helps

Gareth

Thanks for your help Gareth, ive just decided to pull the engine to begin work on the rest of the bus with the intention to either build and fit a 1776 or repair the old one with twin carbs and a good exhaust..

See what you think http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8798" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;