Increasing Displacement
- Thread starter Bounce
- Start date
Help Support Early Bay Forum:
- Status
Trikky2
Well-known member
Bounce said:
The kit from Machine 7 (a highly thought of company) is listed/described as "bolt in" which is accurate. There is no machining required to fit the replacement piston and barrel set.
If your current engine is in need of a rebuild then it gives a little more power than stock.
The increase is only small though.
Hence if your current engine is working fine then the gain of only a few HP isn't worth the effort in my opinion.
Trikky2
Well-known member
monkiboy said:
This forum is a friendly and helpful place.
Posts like yours spoil it.
If you do not wish to be of help to others then please do not post.
Thank you for your comprehension.
Trikky2 said:
Agreed
You'd probably be better off ensuring your current engine is fully serviced/set up correctly, and make sure you're getting full throttle at the carbs. If that still isn't enough, you'd quite probably be better off getting twin carbs than going for a 1641
I recently rebuilt my 1600 (keeping it as a 1600) and now wish I'd gone larger. I'm now planning something around the 2l mark
Trikky2 said:
Agreed
madmike
Well-known member
I wouldn't install 87mm on a Bus motor, not worth the little gain,unless your Pistons&barrels/cylinders are worn out? and u already have them?
a Better power adder is a pair of 40 IDF's and a decent Header
If you motor need a rebuild? bore the case & heads to 90.5 for a nice 1776cc W100 cam or the W110, w/IDF's ect. 8) 8) 8)
a Better power adder is a pair of 40 IDF's and a decent Header
If you motor need a rebuild? bore the case & heads to 90.5 for a nice 1776cc W100 cam or the W110, w/IDF's ect. 8) 8) 8)
I will admit my level of knowledge on these engines is low, but I do know my cam follower from my thrust bearing. I was wondering if it was a simple bolt on, or if it required something as little as a different needle in the carb, or if I would need to change the stroke length at all.
Thanks to your informative post, I shall go and read a Haynes manual dude.
I come from a background of minis where people would be going to the hassle of getting blocks rebored or swapping out cranks to go from 1275 to 1300. And it would be worth it.
But now I know it's not worth it for busses, and you've set ideas off in my head that the wife won't like.
Thanks to your informative post, I shall go and read a Haynes manual dude.
I come from a background of minis where people would be going to the hassle of getting blocks rebored or swapping out cranks to go from 1275 to 1300. And it would be worth it.
But now I know it's not worth it for busses, and you've set ideas off in my head that the wife won't like.
monkiboy said:hehehe....
I was actually pointing out that with such a low level of "Knowledge" maybe it might be worth at least reading a Haynes Manual before making an interweb post .....
These books are designed for the "Lay-man" with little or no knowledge, they give details of cylinder sizes etc and can be very informative
Your first post still makes you sound like a **** though :lol:
monkiboy said:
Sorry, not so. The Haynes manual doesnt deal with performance upgrades or reccomended increases in capacity which is exactly the question raised. If the OP read the Haynes manual from cover to cover the question he raised would NOT be answered, would it?
If you cant say anything nice, say nothing.
Can I ask how old these "older" Haynes manuals are?
As the ones I bought 32 years ago seem to have this extra information missing.
As the ones I bought 32 years ago seem to have this extra information missing.
Hopefully the OP's question has been answered. Yes, it is a simple bolt on replacement
Im going to lock this thread now Hopefully the OP will start another thread if he needs more info and will get some on topic advice
Im going to lock this thread now
Hopefully the OP will start another thread if he needs more info and will get some on topic advice - Status
Similar threads
Vehicle For Sale
Spliffy the panel van,
