let me have your thoughts on this welding repair today (frid

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Turn that frown upside down dood! put it this way it will be sorted in a few weeks so dont worry, just may have cost you more than expected, they always do ;)
 
Before you say anything get a look underneath it may be hes had a change of mind between pics (unlikely I know).....

If its as thought explain to him you were expecting either that whole side cutting with the rpair secting letting in and butt welded or just the patch butt welded in place not an overlap, he should know the consequences of it and should have got confirmation/explained the issues with his interpretation of your request

think I have that panel if your needing another fella....
 
I can see the pics now.
Its a shame hes welded so thouroughly ... spot weld would have done and would be easier to remove.

Hope you get an amicable result.
 
A mate of mine who is a welder fabricator done a couple of areas on mine, we got all the repair panels but as has been said he only used the metal he needed to, probebly about 1/4 of all the panels in total, what your guy has done looks totally unacceptable i would have a word with him and explain why you are not happy and put the ball in his court.
 
Baron, let us know how u got on! I'm just outside of Chester, PM me if you want a hand sorting it.
 
well we agreed to disagree, but in an amicable fashion, cos i'm a wuss ;)

on the face of it, it does look tidy, and it is welded and sealed underneath

so i just chalked it up to experience, mentally noted never to let him at the van again, and added it to the list of jobs that need fettling when i finally build a garage to keep the van in the condiotn i want to keep it in

i hesitate to mention the job he did of fitting a folding table, stop me one show for a squizz at it, unless i manage to tidy it up first ;) :lol:
 
oh yeah, i mentioned the cutting of the repair panel to fit the hole, apparently that can't be done :roll:

:lol:

on the plus side, the mondo exhaust i fitted is working a treat, and i got a wee bit more power, so went for a nice drive at 7.30am this morning cos i was excited about getting my van back and the missus and bab were snoozing in bed :mrgreen:
 
Your last comment sums this guys work up completely! Its always a good idea to know what you expect and ask them how they will do it, and at that point if he'd have said it can't be done then you can walk (or drive!).

Anyhow it might not be the best way to do the job but it will do the job and its not really on show, as long as its protected it should last too!
 
Glad you got your van back, and youve kept youre 'love' for it.

Wise is the man that can 'get over' stuff ;)
 
I'll agree with the majority here and say that he should have cut the repair panel. I don't understand his comment of it can't be done, probably more a case of can't be arsed.
At least he's sealed it from the underside though, although that use of hammerite is a bit shoddy, most of it will have burnt off with the welding. Should have been done with a zinc weld through primer and then topcoated after the welds had been ground down. Good to see he's bothered to seam weld it however I hope he sorted out those holes where he's blown through on the edge nearest the door.

james_stan said:
BTW have you though how it rusted out to start with ? I would guess from the inside out, caused by water leaking into the cab area maybe via the windscreen. From the outside I think think the floor is quite well
hidden.

Rotten windscreen apatures tend to rot the lower and inner front panel rather than the floor. Moisture trapped between the rubber mat and the floor is the reason cab floors tend to rot. Reasons for moisture here range from getting in with wet feet (which is unavoidable really!) to missing rubber grommits around the pedals.
 
30+ years in the accident repair game and I can tell you that repair was rubbish!

Should have butt welded a repair section into the affected area but NOT ground down flush. This all depends on how you want to do the job and food for thought.

The ATA examiners tell you that all butt welded joints on replacement panels and rapair sections should only be taken down to a certain degree to retain the welds strength.
Now, this means you are left with a slight protrusion of weld which needs to to dressed down and delt with to tidy it up. Yes I know grinding down flush makes everything look cosmetically nice, but can cause thinning in various areas and you would be surpised how easy it is to punch through these areas.

I would have opted for cutting out the whole pan out and leaving a 10mm overlap as previously mentioned, Zinc or copper sprayed and lap welded ( no penitration on underside as this weakens the joint) the entire seam. Take the weld down, then tidy up with either a neat bead of seam sealer or nick some filler in prior to painting. The underside should only need a neat bead of sealer to close off the seam and stonegaurded/undersealed.

Once prepared and painted, I personally would mist some spraywax over the pan.
 

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