MOT failures

[OliTom]

Hi all, I'm new here. We've been wanting a bus for a while and looked at a few. Finally found one that meets our criteria but its just failed its MOT and I was wanting a bit of advice.

I haven't purchased this one yet but we are going to take a very long drive (5 hours) next week to have a look and buy if its right.

Could any of you experienced lot give a little advice (I know its hard because the info is limited) on how much it'll cost to pass and/or advice in general on some of the possible repair costings.

(I have spoken to guy selling it who doesn't really know much (selling for a friend/customer). I will ring the MOT station next week and see if they can remember doing the MOT 6 weeks ago and give me any more info)

So it failed on;

Front lower (doors both sides) body has sharp edge caused by corrosion (6.1.C.1)...... This ones difficult because it only looks like paint bubbling in the picture.

Nearside seat belt insecurely fixed to the vehicles structure (5.2.1a)....... this one baffles me a bit.

Front (drop arm) ball joint has excessive play.

Headlamp to high and stop lamps not working.

Advisories;

front floor has slight corrosion
Rear wheel arches body has slight corrosion
rear (ends of both sills) body has slight corrosion
Steering coupling deteriating and light oil leak from steering box.

Its my first (or could be) bus and i'm no mechanic, will give things a go but know my limits so most of the bits may be done by my trusted garage.

I'll probably book half hour at a local mechanic to give it a look over with his opinion. And oh, and yes I've tried to do a bit of math to see if all the work can be done within what budget we have, and I think so. But I also understand that whatever the budget.....it's never big enough.

Thanks for any help, you may be hearing from me a lot !!

 

[thejinx]

I would be worried about the advisories for rust. Sounds like the bottom 6 inch are on their way out. I bought my bus with this issue. Although the doors etc can be bought or fixed welding is expensive as is the spray job once done. Also this is the surface once you start taking it apart you will find more rust. Rust is probably why the seat belt failed as you cannot have rust within 300 mm of an anchor point. Not putting you off just letting you know. If you have the skill or the dosh it could be saved.

Also is it a right hand drive Dormobile? If so when you take the floor pans out there could be more. Check the roof gutters especially around the hinges. The gutters could be gone. What state are the roof and canvas in. What state are the seals in around the windscreen etc. also check the rear hatch etc. again if you have the time skills or dosh not an issue my'n has taken 5 years and 5 grand.

 

[Tofufi]

So it failed on;

Front lower (doors both sides) body has sharp edge caused by corrosion (6.1.C.1)...... This ones difficult because it only looks like paint bubbling in the picture.

Nearside seat belt insecurely fixed to the vehicles structure (5.2.1a)....... this one baffles me a bit.

Front (drop arm) ball joint has excessive play.

Headlamp to high and stop lamps not working.

Advisories;

front floor has slight corrosion
Rear wheel arches body has slight corrosion
rear (ends of both sills) body has slight corrosion
Steering coupling deteriating and light oil leak from steering box.

To get it through an MOT, the rust/sharp edges on the doors can just be covered with duct tape... that's how mine has passed every MOT since I've had it :lol: To fix the bubbles/rust in the door could cost a lot more, long term - but duct tape would get it through an MOT.

Belt could be anything, from just a loose bolt to a rotten mount.

New balljoint shouldn't cost more than £200 for a garage to do, I'd have thought.

Brake lights... could be a fuse or the brake light switch. No more than an hour labour to fix.
Headlamp aim easy enough to adjust.

With the advisories, some testers will note anything to cover themselves. If a tester has incorrectly passed a vehicle, if they've advised and passed it shows they've noted a problem, whereas if they've not noted it, there's no record that they even considered it. You'd need to look at it yourself to see how bad it is - it could be hanging, it could be quite tidy with a picky tester. My van has had advisories for under-floor rust outside prescribed areas the last 7-8 years... and has passed the last 7 MOTs first time

 

[RePhil]

First well done for asking on here. There is a huge amount of experience out there & also fully documented in the gallery section. Have a look there at the way seemingly innocuous rust bubbles lead to a full rebuild, often long & costly, or worse. Read as many as you can. Also look in technical section & see all the daily issues people have. You need to learn how to look after it - or pay.

I agree some testers are picky but there are a lot of buses that shouldn't be on the road. Like mine when I bought it.
A lot of us will know exactly what it's like about to buy your first bus. You look at a few but they're gone. You finally find one & your money is now burning a hole in your pocket. The other half may be starting to think maybe it's not such a good idea. It's now or never.
If you travel 5 hrs you are unlikely to walk away.

Garages often say they are selling on behalf of customers to avoid any comebacks. Individuals who realise they have bought a dog & want to get rid asap may do the same.

If a tight budget is your main driver just wait 'til you own one!

Where are you? Maybe someone off here can have a look at one for/with you.

My advice is don't buy it.

Phil.

 

[Grazy]

Where is the bus mate, because if you ask nicely a friendly forum member may be willing to look at this with you

Good luck , but if you are in any doubt walk away , if you are paitient the right vehicle WILL turn up !

Cheers G 8)

 

[OliTom]

Thanks for all your input, I know it's hard to give advice on a bus that non of you have seen.

I started out by looking for one that needs no work... but without paying a lorra lorra of money to people who have understandably put a lot of effort in making sure it's right. But I've noticed that there's just too many........."it's a good un" only to go and look and find that I all honesty, it's not. We just don't want to end up with a lovely shining bus, supposedly good and needing no work (for a little while anyway) that turns out needs 2k more spending on bits before the floor falls out.

So the thought process has turned out to be, spend a lot less on one that needs a bit of work. With the budget left to do it. I just can't weld unfortunately, which I know is a very handy attribute to have when owning a classic.

This one is original paint and looks very honest, some welding has been done at some point (new front valance and probably a bit more). And the engine has receipts for a rebuild 1500 miles ago.

I'm not disalusioned into thinking £500 will do it (but more like £6000). But I think I've come to the conclusion that if we start (not from scratch) but somewhere in the middle then there's no surprises. Which is why I was hoping for some guidance from you guys that have been working on them for years on the man hours or costs expected in some of the jobs listed for attention in the MOT failure/advisories and any common issues that I will most probably come across. Which bits a pain in the butt and which are pretty straight forward.

Thanks again all those taking the time to reply.

 

[aogrady]

Hi, welcome along! You don't mention the price, I don't really need to know, but obviously this has a bearing on things. As suggested mooch about for vans for sale on here, will give you a good idea of what's what.

I'm weary about a garage selling "on behalf of " I went to see a mint van, fresh paint, and fresh underseal, but supposedly a customer daily just in for a service.
I drove over a 3 hours round trip to view from a dealer in Rugby, it was a good price, but closer inspection found poor repairs and paint over spray, filled in seams.
I walked away, the other half didn't speak to me for ages....

I had money burning a hole, but as you, I can't weld, so in my position I needed as least rusty bus as possible. The one you are talking about sounds like it will need a lot of welding if it's a UK bus. You may be spending 000's getting it up to spec, in the meantime, it's in someone else's garage being welded - not in yours, when you should be driving and enjoying it, which is why you want it in the first place?!

Personally, as I was in a similar position, I would buy the least rusty bus I can find. I went for a lhd import from California, maybe get a bare bones bus, and make your stamp on it.

It might be more money than a UK bus, but a basic bus with no rot, and maybe a basic interior would be a better bet long term?

Lots of people getting buses in with the usual suspects being midland early bay, etc, as well as private sellers, most of which are known on here as long term members

A great idea as already mentioned, maybe inquire for a another member to have a look at a bus, a fresh pair of eyes without bias could pay dividends

Good luck with the search!

Cheers

Alistair

 

[*Sam*]

Based only on the description in the text and how you grade your mechanical ability i wouldn't go and look at it.
I would attempt to stay a little more local to yourself and probably only consider dry imports.
In order to find a RHD bus that hasn't got corrosion issues I would suggest you are looking at a bus that has had a full and in depth restoration meaning that if it has been done to the correct level of workmanship the price tag will be high.
Any RHD bus that is still in original paint is either worth a lot of money or is not actually in original paint etc. unfortunately the English climate and salty roads don't allow for old vehicles to survive. (And some modern !)
A bodged repair will only cause you huge issue and more expense. I don't mean in any way to sound negative but I would hate you to waste your money.

 

[admwllms]

Failing on rust would make me very worried, unless you're the handy type and really know what you're doing. I've been in the same position and bought both a UK and US project at different times. Had good-looking UK buses that hid all kinds of nightmares.

Would definitely recommend a US import with OG paint – that way, it's a project to tinker with but not one that will ruin you financially with welding costs.

 

[six]

Good point made. Where is it how much they want for it. Some e on here may be very local and can take a look and take a lot better pictures etc.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

 

[OliTom]

This ones 6k (but I'm a hoping to get it for less as you do)

I've had lots of advice to buy an import and I have looked at a couple, which is all very well as they CAN be in better shape, but ......it's just not what I want deep down. I want a RHD Brit. Is it patriotism? That I don't particularly want a LHD? Pride? I don't know, probably all. It's maybe not the wise side of the brain thinking but there's a time to be wise and a time to be brave. Surely I'm not alone in that way of thinking?

I'm not set on buying this one, but I will go and have a look, I'm gonna book half an hour with the MOT garage that's already failed it and get his full opinion, and I'll go from there.

A lot has been said about the distance too, but that's not an issue at all. Staying the night at an old friends will make it worth the trip alone

I am not to naive to jump in with both feet, If it needs more work and they don't reflect it in the price then I'll pass....... But of course I hoping to turn up and get a nice surprise to make everybody envious

If I do get it and any of you are in around North Yorkshire willing to offer some of your experienced services id obviously be very grateful.
Cheers

 

[six]

sounds like you have talked your self into it. Enjoy the trip where ever it is to see whatever you are seeing.

Ensure what ever you are seeing e.g. a westy is a proper westy etc and at least you are getting what you expect genuine rust as well.

I am sure you have a plan to get it home, 5 hours on a trailer, all the rusty bit will have fallen off so there is a bonus.

Post pics when you have bought it (maybe) and enjoy the resto

 

[Dickie524]

I also wanted an RHD as the Mrs wants to drive it, and doesn't do LHD. She won't drive my LHD classic car for sure.

I looked at several within a ~50 mile radius and eventually found a shabby one that was solid in all the right places. MOT expired, and a dead engine. Upholstery threadbare and mouldy. However this was a 1968 UK spec Dormobile which was pretty original, nearly complete, and fundamentally solid, good canvas etc.

I turned down several vans that looked wonderful but which under the surface were a bag of nails. Beautiful interiors, lovely fitouts, even some bunting (!), but a good squeeze on the chassis rails by hand and you could hear them creaking, and they were full of rust 'cornflakes' inside the rails.

I have had to do several bits of welding but mostly tidying up jobs, and had a new motor. Engine and geabox out were in fact the first jobs.

The van cost me £7k up front, about another £2k so far on bits, and about another £2k on a new engine. And that's doing ALL the work (apart from engine building) myself. I anticipate andother £1.5 - £2k before I'm done. So I expect about £12k befor I'm rolling. But then again I don't like visible rusty patches etc and have done some nonessential stuff like getting dents out etc.

Another thing to consider is time - Taken me 6 months so far in which time it hasn't moved an inch! (But life goes on in the meantime, and wife and toddler and 1-yr old doesn't help progress!)

I would say as with any old/ classic car, buy with the head, not the heart, but that is VERY hard to do, and I have fallen for it myself in the past! As for whether it would be a fun day out, I say go and have a look, you aren't comitted until you hand your cash over...

Bonne chance...!

 

[Dickie524]

I guess another point of the above is that it IS possible (though hard) to find a UK bus with not too much rust - but I'b be lying if I said NO rust. I was lucky it was ~25 miles away. Thankfully I can weld reasonably well, but have only had minor bits to do - though still expensive if I were to get someone else to do it for me.

 

[thejinx]

I bought a crossover 72 Dormobile RHD for 3 grand. i knew it was a shed. I have wanted one for ever, i am 47 now and i can just afford it. My mechanical expertise consists of knowing the number for the AA and i can smack things with a hammmer. Welding and spray done by a professional. Engine i did myself (see my thread took 7 hours to put it back in where people can do it in much less time). Beer and mates made it fun and (it has started) all mechanicals and putting the bits back together i am doing myself and loving it. 5 years so far but all of that apart from 3 months has been the body shop as he was doing it in spare time to save me coin. My van sounded like yours surface rust, not once i dug in. I was that gullable the lady selling said that there were many new parts. In reality this was a metal strip hiding the join of the wood on the floor to the sliding door. Should you buy a RHD hell yes as long as you dont mind getting your hands dirty and spending the dosh. I reckon 12 grand by the time i have finished and it aint nothing special. I know the body work is top notch, i know i havent skimped on parts and i have loved doing it. MOT by July fingers crossed. save another van, only you know what you can afford and what your capabilities are. I couldnt afford a van outright and in all honesty this has cost more than if i had bought the best money can buy but it is my van with my blood sweat and tears litrally. You will get amazing advice off this forum and things will click into place. I didnt know a thing about VW campers until i got my hands dirty and bought the manuals. Do whats right for you. So after my Directors bitter infused rant i am off to bed. SAVE ANOTHER BUS, BUT DO WHAT YOU THINK IS RIGHT FOR YOU. RHD DORMOBILE RULE

 

[KevH]

Been there, got the tee shirt...I bought a UK RHD shed, spent a bloody fortune on it, and it is probably worth less than I have forked out. But it is my bus, and is how I want it.

In other words, don't fool yourself that you can buy a shed and spend next to nothing in order to achieve your dream.

There is a bus for sale on this forum that is UK RHD, fully restored and with a stunning Devon interior, for £11k. There is no way that you will do better by buying that shed and trying to restore it yourself. If I was in the market for a bus now, I'd snap that Devon up without a second thought.

BTW I don't know the seller, I am not trying to urge a sale, but boy do I like the look of that bus. And it does serve to show what is out there, if you are patient and if you buy with your head, not your heart. As a previous poster says, it is really great to save a UK RHD bus that is need of TLC, but you have to be very dedicated and patient.

Good luck in whatever you decide.

 

[Dickie524]

Interesting you reckon you'll be about £12k total before you're going too thejinx, sounds like that might be a rough ballpark figure as its similar to mine.

They often say in some classic car circles, the most expensive one you can buy, will turn out to the the cheapest overall.

(Obviously without going bananas on a £50k splitscreen of course!!)