My Tintop Westy bay.

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freddie said:
dubscum said:
there is something very cool about baja's and syncro's, but you really think i will believe this bus will stay stock hight .......... come on ! :lol: spark it or park it 8)

i a more serious note, i think your doing the right thing, saving up to do it right. Cutting and welding is standard on rats but this is a keeper, play the long game, he who laughs last laughs longest ;)

:lol: Definatly, no cutting and turning on this beauty! It may take me a while to save up but will be well worth it!!!

I have kind of missed driving a stock height bus, the best bit is when you break and the front dips down about a foot!!! :lol: Suppose thats better than breaking and your bumper hitting the floor tho ;)
i used to love pulling off and facing the sky,good times.......
 
More....

Monster truck?

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Nice new heat exchange's, hope they work!

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And this is just about the only bit of rust....

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It needs sorting really but i cant afford to get a new pannel welded in. Gonna have to anti rust it and filler it for a few months :(

Hope you like :)
 
Got Indicators, breaklights, headlights all working today! Took a bloody while and im not sure how i managed it but i did :lol:

Gonna bleed the breaks tomorrow and take it for an MOT to see what it fails on :lol:

Would like to say it will be on the road before xmas but that might be being a little too optimistic :(
 
Compared to your last bay this is monster truck madness indeed! :shock: :mrgreen: But congrats 'coz it's a very lovely looking westy indeed! Good luck on the MOT. :msn4:
 
freddie said:
Got Indicators, breaklights, headlights all working today! Took a bloody while and im not sure how i managed it but i did :lol:

Gonna bleed the breaks tomorrow and take it for an MOT to see what it fails on :lol:

Would like to say it will be on the road before xmas but that might be being a little too optimistic :(

you have been busy, good luck with the mot :mrgreen:
 
SO:

Took it for an MOT today, not hoping it would pass, more seeing what i need to do to make it pass. They do a free restest you see.

List of what i need to do:

- Back rear break not working
- Front left break pulling
- Play in track rod end
- Hand break too loose

Was quite releived really, the restest is 4th of Jan, so before then i need to sort my breaks out and fit a new trackrod end.... not too hard :)

Anyone know how i tighten my hand break? I cant remember!
 
handbrake - depends on how much is left on the threads! under the handbrake boot should be 2 cables that have 2x pr of 10mm nuts. these are what adjusts the cable tension. I assume the brakes are ok as the tester would have said! edit - Oh I see the fail point - so maybe do rear braks 1st then see if h/brake needs adjusting......
the snag would come if there is no thread left on the cable to tension - then it's new cable time I'm afraid. You may need your VIN when orderering as I'm sure 68/69 had 2 diff lengths although not sure on that good luck and well done.
 
dubdubz said:
handbrake - depends on how much is left on the threads! under the handbrake boot should be 2 cables that have 2x pr of 10mm nuts. these are what adjusts the cable tension. I assume the brakes are ok as the tester would have said! edit - Oh I see the fail point - so maybe do rear braks 1st then see if h/brake needs adjusting......
the snag would come if there is no thread left on the cable to tension - then it's new cable time I'm afraid. You may need your VIN when orderering as I'm sure 68/69 had 2 diff lengths although not sure on that good luck and well done.

Cheers. Ahhh i think i remember now. Am i right in saying you have to loosen/dissconect the handbreak to get the engine out? As its had a recon engine put in recently which would explain why the handbreak isnt tightened up enough. Definatly adjust the rear breaks up first, then go from their with the hand break.

Thanks again :)
 
freddie said:
Cheers. Ahhh i think i remember now. Am i right in saying you have to loosen/dissconect the handbreak to get the engine out? As its had a recon engine put in recently which would explain why the handbreak isnt tightened up enough. Definatly adjust the rear breaks up first, then go from their with the hand break.

Thanks again :)


shouldn't be affected by engine install - heater cables and accel are the only ones to be undone on that job.....

if the brakes are unknown then I'd recommend removing the drums and inspecting the innards to make sure it's all ok and nothing is leaking. Also if you do have to replace your cables you'll need to get this lot off anyway, this way around you can check all is good. Good brakes are essential - how far down were they on the test? just off might be simple adjustment, way down could be pads very worn or leaking/weeping cylinder. best to check imho either way.
 
dubdubz said:
freddie said:
Cheers. Ahhh i think i remember now. Am i right in saying you have to loosen/dissconect the handbreak to get the engine out? As its had a recon engine put in recently which would explain why the handbreak isnt tightened up enough. Definatly adjust the rear breaks up first, then go from their with the hand break.

Thanks again :)


shouldn't be affected by engine install - heater cables and accel are the only ones to be undone on that job.....

if the brakes are unknown then I'd recommend removing the drums and inspecting the innards to make sure it's all ok and nothing is leaking. Also if you do have to replace your cables you'll need to get this lot off anyway, this way around you can check all is good. Good brakes are essential - how far down were they on the test? just off might be simple adjustment, way down could be pads very worn or leaking/weeping cylinder. best to check imho either way.

Thanks. Well the rear right wasnt working at all. I took both hubs off yesterday and they looked as if maybe they had been leaking a bit. It looked as tho there had been some oil or greese in them :? Anyway i cleaned them up and bled them and it stopped well. Id say the wheel cylinders need replacing then maybe? All the pads looked really new.
 
freddie said:
Thanks. Well the rear right wasnt working at all. I took both hubs off yesterday and they looked as if maybe they had been leaking a bit. It looked as tho there had been some oil or greese in them :? Anyway i cleaned them up and bled them and it stopped well. Id say the wheel cylinders need replacing then maybe? All the pads looked really new.

yes I'd say they need replacing i'm afraid - the insides afaik should be dry - although I thought the handbrake is mechanical so this will need adjusting too thinking about it.......
 
Make sure the rear brakes are adjusted up correctly then adjust the handbrake by pulling the handbrake lever about 6 clicks then adjust the cables until they lock the wheel.
Take the handbrake off and try turning the wheel to make sure that you haven't over adjusted it.
Make sure though that both rear wheels are jacked up and off the floor when adjusting the brakes / handbrake
 

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