Oil light

[CornishSilver]

Hi guys after some advise please. Bus went in for a service yesterday and we are off camping in it 1st thing friday morning. It has had an oil change and a new sump plug and sump gasket fit as part of the service as there was some leakage there. I have been out on a 20 mile round trip and the oil light is on. Oil level is fine, light does not come on at initial tick over but does once driven. Is the light oil level or oil pressure? any ideas? Cheers people

 

[CornishSilver]

Also the heat exchanger was held on hot by some cable ties which I also had removed so that its just blowing cold, thought that may be worth mentioning although probably nothing to do with it.

 

[CornishSilver]

Running my own thread here lol but I also had a tow bar fit so could it be a possible earth fault, it was flickering erratically a lot of the time and constant at others

 

[sparkywig]

What oil did they refill it with?

 

[CornishSilver]

What oil did they refill it with?

No idea sparky just presumed they new what they were doing. What should have gone in(forgive my ignorance but I've only been a bus owner for just over a week))? I will call them in the morning and check. I have tied the heat exchangers back up and it lasted a little longer. Also its to consistent to be electrical imo

They did say the were going to put an additive in to put some suppleness back into the seals as its leaking a little.

 

[Moseley]

Does it come on at idle after it has been driven? If so, it would suggest there is something seriously wrong with a lack of oil pressure - this is what the oil light indicates, low pressure. Did it do it before the oil change? I can't believe that even if super thin oil was used that this would cause the light to flicker at anything above idle so hopefully it is just an electrical problem. I would be concerned with the garage saying they would use an additive to make the seals more supple. No additives should ever be needed, it would be better for your engine to just leave it to leak and keep the oil regularly topped up.


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[sparkywig]

I normally run 15W40, but last year I changed the oil and mistakenly filled it with 5W40, the oil light came on whenever the revs dropped. After refilling with 15W40 it was fine.

 

[CornishSilver]

I normally run 15W40, but last year I changed the oil and mistakenly filled it with 5W40, the oil light came on whenever the revs dropped. After refilling with 15W40 it was fine.

Thanks Sparky, appreciate the reply :beerchug:

 

[CornishSilver]

Does it come on at idle after it has been driven? If so, it would suggest there is something seriously wrong with a lack of oil pressure - this is what the oil light indicates, low pressure. Did it do it before the oil change? I can't believe that even if super thin oil was used that this would cause the light to flicker at anything above idle so hopefully it is just an electrical problem. I would be concerned with the garage saying they would use an additive to make the seals more supple. No additives should ever be needed, it would be better for your engine to just leave it to leak and keep the oil regularly topped up.


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Missed this one somehow. Its fine at idle, and comes back on as the revs are increased. Its didn't do it before the change and I had a nice 50 mile drive home from buying last week so would say its something thats been done in the care of the garage or maybe its just coincidently gone wrong straight after their work. Almost certain its not electrical. I think he recommended an additive for the seals because he didn't want to get to involved, I need to find a good air cooled mechanic in my area

 

[Air Cooled Rookie]

Its fine at idle, and comes back on as the revs are increased.

I had the exact same symptoms once and it was because the pipes to a remote filter had been fitted the wrong way round. I appreciate that you are new to your bus, but do you know if you have a remote oil filter fitted?

Where are you based? (I'm guessing Cornwall!) Maybe someone on here can recommend a local VW place?

 

[Moseley]

I would definitely recommend finding someone a bit more clued up to work on your van - it's a lovely bus, and I think any mechanic recommending additives to do something to the seals is either not very knowledgable or isn't willing to spend time fixing the actual problems.

Back to your rev problem - that's an odd one, if it was actually linked to the oil pressure that your engine made then it would be on constantly, or more so at idle as this is when the pump is producing the least pressure. I'm wondering if it could be related to one of your oil pressure relief valves opening early? I'm not too clued up on their operation off the top of my head I'm afraid.

 

[BJ1]

What oil did they refill it with?

No idea sparky just presumed they new what they were doing. What should have gone in(forgive my ignorance but I've only been a bus owner for just over a week))? I will call them in the morning and check. I have tied the heat exchangers back up and it lasted a little longer. Also its to consistent to be electrical imo

They did say the were going to put an additive in to put some suppleness back into the seals as its leaking a little.

I don't know who has changed your oil but from your posts it appears they are clueless on aircooled engines. Find someone who knows what they doing (suggest SW Splitz at Exeter who are excellent) and get them to chuck the oil your so-called garage has put in the engine and replace it with some 15/40 non-synthetic oil with NO additives.
Moral of this tale is don't let ordinary mechanics (module fitters) anywhere near your bus!

 

[Trikky2]

If the oil light is flickering erratically, have you checked the wire and spade terminal are in good condition / not touching somewhere?

If it still does it despite good connections then try a replacement pressure sensor. They can go bad sometimes.

(If you replace the pressure sensor, do not over tighten it!)

Alternatively a good garage can check your oil pressure with a gauge.

 

[CornishSilver]

Ok bit of an update. In the end they didn't put an additive in it and filled up with a classic 30w so I'm fairly happy that is not the cause of the issue. After having a chat with Aogrady who was super helpful I disconnected the save my bug thermometer as that was the likely issue. After looking at the website and following the recalibration steps I have it set up correctly so have reinstalled it ready to test. It was way out of calibration and I think that they twisted it out and inadvertently cocked up the calibration when testing the oil level with the dipstick..........Time will tell. I will probably be on here crying later that I've blown my engine up...


Ok been out for a few short runs and all appears well arty0049: Thanks for everyones input.

 

[smokehouse]

if you have the remote oil filter it could be the brand of oil filter they used. i was running fram's but there was a sale on purolator filters so i tried one of those i got down the road about 12 miles and i noticed my light was on so i went home and change the filter back out to fram and the light stayed off.