oil

[punkass]

going to be putting an oil temp gauge in this weekend, i have the sump sender one so if the oil is coming out then i want to put fresh stuff in. what is the best oil i should get?

 

[Marvel]

I recommend Halfords classic motor oil. Bloody thick stuff and comes in a retro oil can

 

[sparkywig]

 

[bananacustard]

Surely they'll block up the strainer won't they :? ? ( unless you make a smoothie with them first )

On a serious note, I like morris 30 monograde.

 

[Pete B]

How very true!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

For my two pen'orth, a good quality 20w/50 or 15w/40 (Castrol GTX?)
Anyone who suggests a monograde either, with respect, has no comprehension of how oil works or is living in the 1950's or is mental. Keep the 20/50 topped up and change regularly. (Hides behind sofa to avoid incoming flak )

and yes, I know 'monograde 30 is what they were designed to run on' but that was way before multigrades were thought of, we had thin oil for winter and thick oil for summer, etc etc.

Make sure it is a mineral oil and not synthetic, the latter is not so good at dissipating heat (allegedly), not helpful on an air cooled engine.

All my own views, I am a luddite, but monograde??? the only monograde I use is 3-in-1 on the door hinges.... :lol:

 

[alex4057]

How very true!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

For my two pen'orth, a good quality 20w/50 or 15w/40 (Castrol GTX?)
Anyone who suggests a monograde either, with respect, has no comprehension of how oil works or is living in the 1950's or is mental. Keep the 20/50 topped up and change regularly. (Hides behind sofa to avoid incoming flak )

and yes, I know 'monograde 30 is what they were designed to run on' but that was way before multigrades were thought of, we had thin oil for winter and thick oil for summer, etc etc.

Make sure it is a mineral oil and not synthetic, the latter is not so good at dissipating heat (allegedly), not helpful on an air cooled engine.

All my own views, I am a luddite, but monograde??? the only monograde I use is 3-in-1 on the door hinges.... :lol:

Listen to the man :mrgreen:

I am so glad someone posted something that actually makes sense and says all i wanted so I don't have too :lol:

for the record I use Valvoline 15/40W Turbo (sometimes branded as Turbo Diesel) Designed to run at HOT temps!

I've prob done 70,000 miles and 120 passes on the 1/4 mile changing Oil between every 500 miles up to 3000 miles max.

Oil is crucial to an aircooled engine, I suggest changing it as frequently as you can afford to!

There are only a few refiners of oil in the UK, so doesn't make much difference what brand you use, even the cheaper stuff is ok, no need to be drawn in by posh adverts claiming all kinds of nano technologies, they all just add their own additives, mainly you pay for the name!

 

[Pete B]

I recommend Halfords classic motor oil. Bloody thick stuff and comes in a retro oil can

and exactly what your engine doesn't need on start up on a cold morning! Hence multigrade
Sorry to sound like a know-all arse, but I just don't get the argument for monograde, it is like saying the earth is flat and even with my ancient 'grumpy old man' views am slightly doubtful of that suggestion. (I've been to the west coast of Canada and USA and surely would have fallen off?)

 

[Pete B]

Further to what Alex had to say, hadn't really considered it, but it makes perfect sense that an oil designated for turbocharged engines should be capable of withstanding higher than average temperatures. As regards the 'diesel' designation, to the best of my knowledge, 'diesel' oils contain higher levels of detergents which can either help to keep a clean engine case clean or loosen/remove crud from an established engine and send it around the oilways straight into the bearing surfaces.
As said, the oil has to work very hard in an a/c engine, so change it regularly. A VW motor does not have a large sump capacity, therefore it is not expensive to do an oil change. False economy not to!!

 

[Araon]

The free stuff i get on the company fuel card so change it regularly and then use the spent oil on my furnace

 

[bananacustard]

Anyone who suggests a monograde either, with respect, has no comprehension of how oil works or is living in the 1950's or is mental.

That's me told then . Morris 30 was the oil recommended by the engine builders I bought my engine from, seems like it might not have been the best advice. Oh well, you live and learn :roll: .

 

[Marvel]

For my two pen'orth, a good quality 20w/50 or 15w/40 (Castrol GTX?)
Keep the 20/50 topped up and change regularly.

Well, the Halfords stuff is 20W/50.

 

[Pete B]

For my two pen'orth, a good quality 20w/50 or 15w/40 (Castrol GTX?)
Keep the 20/50 topped up and change regularly.

Well, the Halfords stuff is 20W/50.

I just spent an hour composing a reasoned and appologetic resonse to any offence caused by previous messages only for network connection to be lost.
So, Marvel, got all mixed up with a different product, humble appologies.
Bananacustard, me a bit (very) arrogant, been in the motor game on and off for many a year, your 30w is fine, just a compromise.
Hope all is ok with everyone, last intention is to offend. Mega rushing before losing connection again, love ya all!!!

 

[Marvel]

Pete, still much love to you brother. Reasoned discussions is what forums are all about. I should have been more specific but couldn't find the image.

 

[bananacustard]

None taken Pete . We all have our ' Keyboard Warrior ' moments, nice you replied. Wouldn't get that on Volkszone. ( :msn4: I might just try some 20/50, it's cheaper and more readily available ).

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

Cheap stuff, as has been mentioned you've got much less time between servicing intervals than a modern car so it turns into an expensive hobby if your using the gucchi stuff.
Mine gets 15/40 Mineral, usually the cheapo carplan stuff!
Make sure its mineral though, they don't like synthetic!

 

[Clem]

I generally use straight 30 though habit, and cos I run a stockish engine through generally, the more temperate times of year.
I try and get 76 when possible as it's got a really good AP rating, defining it's quality.
I've also read elsewhere about polymers in straight oils being more suited to ensuring particles are dealt with in a non flow filter engine, something not to worry about in flowed engines.
Bottom line is keep it topped up, changed at 3k intervals and think about something cooler

 

[Pete B]

Don't set me off again!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[maddog]

I use what John Maher recommended to me when he built my 2276 - Millers race oil 10W60 fully synthetic.
He's done plenty of tests with various grades of oils on aircooled engines and I trust his judgement 100%.

 

[ozziedog]

Hey guys, just to throw another worm in the can :shock: :shock: :shock: I just spotted a rather interesting article from Morris Lubricants :? :? :? And this is their take on Oil / VWs and various types of aircooled motors.http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/lubricants/company.asp?wp=96" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Ozziedog now goes back out to the garage and moves away from lap top puts on his ear muffs and crash helmet, and starts working on his bus whilst waiting for the storm to subside. :shock: :? :lol: :? :shock:

Ozziedog

 

[ozziedog]

Oh yeah, I know they want you to buy their oil, but they do sell all sorts. :roll:

Ozziedog,,,,,,, In garage now and unavailable :lol: :lol: