Paint advice please!

[Hilly_70]

Hi guys

Can some of you experienced paint chaps out there point me in the right direction!

Just trying to prep bus for some paint and the paint used on the top half was just another coat of white over the original, however since the paint was flaking from the og paint quite easily and i didnt want to get this far and it look shit .. I decided to bare metal the top half for best results ..

Bare metalin' the rear vents .. thats not somrthing i wanna do again soon!

... anyway .. heres what i did ..

Stripped paint down to metal using heat gun on top coats then paint removal disc (prep disc) on grinder .. some areas were then were sanded with 600 wet and dry ( used dry ) to key and final prep the surface ..

I then blasted the panel with airline, cleaned with thinners and left to dry .. then very light dust with good quality tac cloth before paint ..

Painting using compressor with water trap and filter on bottom of gun using Mipa etch and high build primer ..

So why am i still getting a reaction and fish eyes ( think thats what they are ) at the first flash of paint?

Theyre not too bad and should get lost when the primer is re prepped but i don't want this to happen on the top coat..

Any advise welcome!

Cheers

Hilly

 

[franchman]

hi i had the same i was told it was silicone from wd40,so if you go to your paint shop and ask for some paint leveler it is about 8 pounds this work for me.but you will have to flattion the fisheyes down.good luck.

 

[Hilly_70]

Cheers for the advice mate ..

I may try some of that as ive gotta go for some more paint anyway ..

Cheers

Hilly

 

[56 pumper]

What was it waxed with before?
Any polish, dash cleaner or plastic cleaner?
Older stuff has silicone in it, it floats as its sprayed,
I'm a painter by trade, it'll need bare metalled to kill it totally.
If this is done, you shouldn't have any more trouble,
I paint a lot of w'cooled showcars, the guys that show them lather them in wax, tyre gel, dash cleaner and it's a proper ballache removing it. I had to strip a bonnet, 2 wings and bumper with thinners and a scotchbrite pad to kill the contaminants in the paint, perfect paints in the prep, that's why it's costly because it's time consuming.

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

Couple of things really,

Firstly don't clean your panel down with thinners. The big drums of standard thinners used for gunwash is all recycled shit now anyway so your asking for problems if your using that to clean your panels. You want to use panel wipe or ideally a good quality anti silicone degreaser, I can reccomend the one Lechler make.

Also remember to do your cleaning down wearing latex gloves, the oils from your hands can cause reactions.

Fish-eyes are usually caused by a silicone however they can also occur if your first coat is too wet. You want to start with a light drop coat first, just get a dusting on the panel. Once its flashed off you can start with your wet coats. If your working somewhere unheated the cold weather won't be helping this either if you go steaming in with a wet coat to start with.

 

[Hilly_70]

Cheers guys ...

The painting was straight to bare metal, as i had a prob with 'unknown' coats of paint previously .. so it all came off!

I also bought some panel wipe, although the thinners i was using was the stuff i was mixing with the paint, so thought ( as advised by someone else! ) that it would be ok ..

I also thought about the heat element of it ..

I used panel wipe instead of thinners, had heat lamps on in garage well before i thought about painting .. just to warm the metal up a bit..

Sprayed a light coat first before wet coats and it seems to have cured the problem..

As i've never sprayed before i guess its all about that learning curve .. but you'll never do it if ya don't try!

I plan on keeping my bus and the thought of being able to repair and repaint it myself helps!

Thanks for the advice ..

I'll update the gallery soon when its all in primer!

Cheers

Hilly

PS .. the primer im using is MIPA 1k etch filler primer .. i'd planned to use normal primer over this before paint .. is that right?

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

Not used that product but it seems it has some build properties to it so if it blocks down ok and you don't break through to metal you could put the topcoat on it. If you've got some more repairs to do I'd put on a good quality high build primer, I really like PPG D839. You can mix it 5:1 or 4:1 for use as a high build, and if you thin it 15% it flows out really nice.

You shouldn't need to use a wet on wet (incidentally you can mix D839 at 2:1 and use it as w.o.w) and if your new to painting it adds a bit more pressure on you to get it right, if you get a run in primer that your letting dry and blocking then its a pain but fixable, if you get a run in your top coat you can flat it out but if you get a run in w.o.w it buggers your plans as you have to let it dry fully and then start again.

Remember though I wouldn't reccomend using 2k products without having a booth with filtered extraction and the proper protective equipment. (personally if one of my neighbours started using 2k in their garage I'd go apeshit!)