Patch reparing paint

[noddy]

Hi All

Just looking for some advice on patch repairs to og paint.

This winter has not been kind to my og paint van (i know should have kept it off the road, but it was safer that my bike in the snow).

I have a few spots where the paint has lifted some surface rut to the metal. Ive rubbed this back to clean metal, what should I prime with is the rattle can grey stuff ok or should I be using self etch?

Secondly what sort of primer sealer should I use under a celly top coat and who sells it. lastly does anyone know of anywhere that does computer paint matching in the shropshire/cheshire area my paint is faded Ive tried to mix paint to match but its always just off the og colour?

Thanks all.

Ian

 

[NickJ]

Hi Ian, I would go with the etch primer myself, get some made up in to rattle cans by a paint supplier, I found this far better the normal "motorworld" rattle cans and not much difference in price.
Sorry don't know about the computer paint matching though . Cheers Nick.

 

[noddy]

Thanks Nick

Ian

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

UPOL do etch in a rattle can.

What colour is the van? I take it your looking to have it spectroed? Apparently some colours don't match up so well when the spectro analyises them.

 

[noddy]

Hi ProfessorWheeto

The vans L50K neptune blue, Ive tried to mix paint at home, got very close but not close enough even when faded out.

thanks

Ian

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

Ah spectro should work alright then. They tend to struggle with whites.

They will ask for an unfaded flat surface to get the match from, so it's going to be worth your while machine polishing the entire bus. I'd reccomend Farecla G6 Rapid.

With the repair itself are you fading it out and blending the paint into the OG or are you spraying edge to edge?

 

[Loxy]

I also have some minor touch ups to perform :lol:
http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12625" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

What do you recommend????

Gonna buy some sort of polishing machine - what should I be looking for ?? & what would be best to use with it?
Cheers

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

Ok well one of the mags this month has suggested a sealey cordless polisher.
FOR CHRIST SAKE DON'T BUY ONE. A cordless polisher will be bloody useless.


You want something like this...
http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/product-10954.wtl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If its going to get a lot of hammer you can easily spend a bit more but its only really worth it if you use it daily.
http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/product-10929.wtl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Compound wise Farecla G6 Rapid kicks ass. We don't bother with G3 anymore now we're on this. Dry use is the best bit, no white gank all over your rubbers.
http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/page-547.wtl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You'll need a pack of these for use with the compound
http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/product-10925.wtl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/product-4751.wtl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You can also get some of these to apply a wax with afterwards
http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/product-4750.wtl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/product-6340.wtl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[Loxy]

Ok well one of the mags this month has suggested a sealey cordless polisher.
FOR CHRIST SAKE DON'T BUY ONE. A cordless polisher will be bloody useless.


You want something like this...
http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/product-10954.wtl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If its going to get a lot of hammer you can easily spend a bit more but its only really worth it if you use it daily.
http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/product-10929.wtl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Compound wise Farecla G6 Rapid kicks ass. We don't bother with G3 anymore now we're on this. Dry use is the best bit, no white gank all over your rubbers.
http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/page-547.wtl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You'll need a pack of these for use with the compound
http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/product-10925.wtl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/product-4751.wtl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You can also get some of these to apply a wax with afterwards
http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/product-4750.wtl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.fishermotorfactors.co.uk/product-6340.wtl" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers for the info, I had already established that I didnt want one of the sealey/halfords style ones
Dont mind spending a bit of money to get something decent, its going to take a bit of work to get my paintwork looking semi-shiney again :lol:

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

Yeah, you planning on polishing that or giving it a quick blow over?

 

[Loxy]

Yeah, you planning on polishing that or giving it a quick blow over?

My plan is to polish it, dont mind if its a bit thin in places & wont be perfect also there are certainly some areas that are going to need touching up but I would like to keep the paint as original as possible - especially after having spent so long with paint stripper & razor blades getting rid of the awful respray that it had when I got it - parts of it I could flake off with my thumb nail!!

Perhaps I should just respray it :lol:

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

Yeah might be easier!
Interior paint looks good so you could just pop the windows out, mask the door shuts with soft edge and give it a light scuff off.

 

[Loxy]

Yeah might be easier!
Interior paint looks good so you could just pop the windows out, mask the door shuts with soft edge and give it a light scuff off.

I got this far now so I'm just going to finish it off & see how it looks......

I think the missus likes the idea of me sitting for hours removing little bits of paint - she knows I'm not causing trouble or spending money :lol:
Little does she know that I'm going to splurge out on more shiny stuff once its done :msn4:

 

[noddy]

I have been spraying the area in the fading the edges out with a thinner mix about 60 to 70% thinners.

It looks ok till I colour polish a few days after spraying, then it appears to be darker than the og paint?

 

[ray]

if your looking for a machine polisher/compounder you wont find better than one of these
http://www.detailedobsession.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=43&osCsid=da15842bc4dc2fc8b47c5a286b7fdcdc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

I have been spraying the area in the fading the edges out with a thinner mix about 60 to 70% thinners.

It looks ok till I colour polish a few days after spraying, then it appears to be darker than the og paint?

Ah right, usually if your spraying edge to edge (eg a cab door or a whole centre panel) it makes any colour difference more obvious.
When spraying modern stuff its easier to lose the fade around a corner or at a swage line as it tends to hide any difference in colour except with a bus with big flat sides your a bit stuffed :lol:

I remember doing a job at the old place where we ended up spraying everything from the belt line down except the front panel as we couldn't get a proper colour match.

Might be worth buffing the rest of the van with compound if you haven't already?

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

I got this far now so I'm just going to finish it off & see how it looks......
I think the missus likes the idea of me sitting for hours removing little bits of paint - she knows I'm not causing trouble or spending money :lol:
Little does she know that I'm going to splurge out on more shiny stuff once its done :msn4:

Ahh fair enough. Looks like you've got a lot of flatting and polishing to do!