por15
- Thread starter Frankie
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Bookwus
Well-known member
Hiya Frankie,
Well, the idea is that POR 15 likes to have a "tooth" to hold on to. So, in theory it should like to be applied over rust.
However, there are a couple of other considerations and one BIG warning about the use of this product.
First of all, never, ever deviate one iota from Restomotive's directions for applying POR 15. That means that you'll have to clean the area thoroughly with Marine Clean. Then apply Metal Ready. Metal Ready is a zinc-rich prep which actually etches the metal for POR 15. Inasmuch as the area has been cleaned and the surface given some "tooth" you won't really be applying the POR 15 over rust. At least, not the thick crusty kind.
I've used POR 15 quite a bit and if you do the required prep there will not be much in the way of rust left in the area. And doing that prep insures that the POR 15 will stick and do its job.
And the warning...............POR 15 contains isocyanates. Bad stuff! Make sure you only use POR 15 in a very well ventilated area. Read: open windows and fans running. Oh, and one other thing...........if you get any POR 15 on your skin, plan on wearing it for a while. This stuff will NOT come off. It will just have to wear off.
Well, the idea is that POR 15 likes to have a "tooth" to hold on to. So, in theory it should like to be applied over rust.
However, there are a couple of other considerations and one BIG warning about the use of this product.
First of all, never, ever deviate one iota from Restomotive's directions for applying POR 15. That means that you'll have to clean the area thoroughly with Marine Clean. Then apply Metal Ready. Metal Ready is a zinc-rich prep which actually etches the metal for POR 15. Inasmuch as the area has been cleaned and the surface given some "tooth" you won't really be applying the POR 15 over rust. At least, not the thick crusty kind.
I've used POR 15 quite a bit and if you do the required prep there will not be much in the way of rust left in the area. And doing that prep insures that the POR 15 will stick and do its job.
And the warning...............POR 15 contains isocyanates. Bad stuff! Make sure you only use POR 15 in a very well ventilated area. Read: open windows and fans running. Oh, and one other thing...........if you get any POR 15 on your skin, plan on wearing it for a while. This stuff will NOT come off. It will just have to wear off.
Simon Hall
Well-known member
It does eat in and leave the surface prepped but of course if you have a rusty metal panel you will still see this in the final finish on the paint, the way that por15 works is that not only is it very tough and flexible but it id moisture curing, sucks the moisture out of the surface area of rust so stopping the rust from getting worse.
I will also add that if you want to save money on this type of paint check my other halfs website for the kbs range new t the UK form the USA basically the same as por15 and cheaper
http://www.therustshop.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I will also add that if you want to save money on this type of paint check my other halfs website for the kbs range new t the UK form the USA basically the same as por15 and cheaper
http://www.therustshop.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
a-ha! So that is where it is from
Bought some from the kbs range from therustshop after seeing a recommendation on here a few weeks ago.
Firstly, great quick service, so thanks! And as you say, a lot cheaper.
But - a few techie questions if I may - just painted a load of grey onto my currently-removed beam, and then just peeled it all off again, which is a pain to say the least. Now absolutely willing to accept opperater error here, so no complaint as such....
I had cleaned the tubes on my beam to be pretty shiny and smooth. Then used the pre-paint stuff (Rustblast) - I was surprised to see no change in the colour or surface of the metal (expected to see some darkening of rusty areas, or evidence of zinc coating etc) - painted the rust seal directly on top - and as I said, it is peeling off in lovely sheets. It is sticking better to the ends of the beam, where the surface is slightly rougher, but obviously I don't want to risk water getting under the paint.
I did use paint remover to get old paint off - now has that left a layer on the metal that hasn't allowed the Rustblast to 'etch'? Or is my problem simply too much preparation and too smooth a surface?!
As I say, not a complaint about the product (yet!) and if I can get it to work, I'll certainly get some more as it is a lot cheaper than POR 15....
So - if the below is too shiny, how can I roughen up and get the rustblast to etch, and rustseal to stick!!
Spent bloody ages cleaning that!! :lol:
Bought some from the kbs range from therustshop after seeing a recommendation on here a few weeks ago.
Firstly, great quick service, so thanks! And as you say, a lot cheaper.
But - a few techie questions if I may - just painted a load of grey onto my currently-removed beam, and then just peeled it all off again, which is a pain to say the least. Now absolutely willing to accept opperater error here, so no complaint as such....
I had cleaned the tubes on my beam to be pretty shiny and smooth. Then used the pre-paint stuff (Rustblast) - I was surprised to see no change in the colour or surface of the metal (expected to see some darkening of rusty areas, or evidence of zinc coating etc) - painted the rust seal directly on top - and as I said, it is peeling off in lovely sheets. It is sticking better to the ends of the beam, where the surface is slightly rougher, but obviously I don't want to risk water getting under the paint.
I did use paint remover to get old paint off - now has that left a layer on the metal that hasn't allowed the Rustblast to 'etch'? Or is my problem simply too much preparation and too smooth a surface?!
As I say, not a complaint about the product (yet!) and if I can get it to work, I'll certainly get some more as it is a lot cheaper than POR 15....
So - if the below is too shiny, how can I roughen up and get the rustblast to etch, and rustseal to stick!!
Spent bloody ages cleaning that!! :lol:
the councillor
Well-known member
angus said:
maybe just (understandably) believing the hyperbole which surrounds this near-mythical product :?
zinc-rich primer, chassis black, sorted 8)
G
Guest
Guest
i've used the rust blast with really good results, and POR15 with bad results and the same amount of prep on both.
the prep for the rust blast 3 stage is a pain but if done right needs done once. the only thing i can think off would be grease on the surface not allowing the rust blast to penetrate. I did notice a colouration of the surface rusted areas on my floor my beam was already pwdower coated from creative eng.
I would steam clean the surface with a pressure hose and detergent and let that dry then try again, axle grease is stubborn **** and can get into the pores on the metal surface its the only thing i can think of other than a bad batch of chemical?
the prep for the rust blast 3 stage is a pain but if done right needs done once. the only thing i can think off would be grease on the surface not allowing the rust blast to penetrate. I did notice a colouration of the surface rusted areas on my floor my beam was already pwdower coated from creative eng.
I would steam clean the surface with a pressure hose and detergent and let that dry then try again, axle grease is stubborn **** and can get into the pores on the metal surface its the only thing i can think of other than a bad batch of chemical?
noddy
Well-known member
If you have grease residue on the surface try a strong caustic soda solution (about 2 part water 1 part soda) you can get soda from most diy super stores they sell it as drain un-blocker, this stuff eats grease. Make sure you wear gloves as it will eat the grease out of you skin and goggles you dont want this **** it in you eyes it reacts with the moisture and chemically burns. I know Ive done it.
You could wrap the beam in clean rags and wet these with the soda solution this will help keep the surface wet while the soda solution gets to work, or take it to a place that dip strip doors it the same thing.
Then wash off with loads of water jet wash if you have one, then I would flat the beam again with 400 grit wet and dry use dish liquid in the water you wet the paper in, that should get rid of any remaining residue, wash again leave to dry then use your rust treatment, and paint.
You could wrap the beam in clean rags and wet these with the soda solution this will help keep the surface wet while the soda solution gets to work, or take it to a place that dip strip doors it the same thing.
Then wash off with loads of water jet wash if you have one, then I would flat the beam again with 400 grit wet and dry use dish liquid in the water you wet the paper in, that should get rid of any remaining residue, wash again leave to dry then use your rust treatment, and paint.
