Removing rear Hub nuts

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Marshy

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Giving the brakes an overall as they failed for mot, fronts done easily, however rears are a pain. Got s 46mm socket 3/4" drive but couldn't move them. Looks like a huge scaffold bar may be needed to get leverage but was wondering if I used a 110v impact driver would this move them?
 
The rear hub nut is done up to 253 ft lbs of torque, so unless you can re tighten the nut afterwards I wouldn't do it.

You will need a very large torque wrench or a torque multiplier to do it correctly. Or with a bit of maths, a long pole and your body weight on it, you can do it without. However, you will need to be able to lock the hub to do it. In gear with someone pressing the brake pedal might work. I made my own wheel lock by cutting down an old wheel and welding a length of angle on to it so it can be bolted on to the hub on the outside of the wheel so it rests against the ground. This may not work for everybody though as I have longer wheel studs due to running 10mm spacers with my T4 steels.

Hope that helps!
 
Thanks madman, got me thinking there! I've got to get it off to get to the drums, but I can get a torque multiplier through work (which I roiling have thought off without you mentioning it)
Cheers
 
I usually cut them off and put new ones on, they can be a right pain and much easier to cut and pop on some new ones :mrgreen:
 
Did exactly that, managed to buy some og nuts and cut off the old, took 30 mins tops, did try 3/4" bar with 6' scaffold pole but didn't manage to move at all.
 
I bent the steel bar that I'd welded a socket to!
Resorted to the little plate spanner thing that fits over the nut and has a bit for snacking with a hammer...one side was easy, the other took some serious abuse before eventually coming undone with some added blow torch action 8)
 
We heated mine with oxy a huge 1" breaker bar and they wouldn't budge got a mate round with his truck tyre fitters setup used his awsome penetrating fluid and gunned them off in seconds...

My advise would be ask a local truck tyre fitting firm to do it they deal with this issue daily :)
 
Breaker bar, scaffolding pipe and my 20 stone bouncing on it has always worked for me.... Don't know what I'll do when this dieting lark kicks in though :lol:
They don't half go with a bang sometimes :shock:
 
Impact is definitely the key here. A lot more initial torque is generated when using impact rather than just levering them off with a long breaker bar.
 
Impact gun would work great.
But I've always used a 3/4 breaker bar and a 4-5 foot cheater bar, come of easily every time but never really had much corrosion on the threads.

Sent from my Siswoo C55 using Tapatalk
 
just reading this post and agree - they dont come off easy and a big bar is useful

however (and Im wondering if I'm getting this wrong...) we dont need a massive bar to get them back on again. If you happened to weight 253lb then you stand on a bar 1ft away from the hub (holding onto the gutter obviously). if you weigh 126lb then you stand on the bar 2ft from the hub (gutter etc). this is right, huh?
 
Bluesnailman said:
just reading this post and agree - they dont come off easy and a big bar is useful

however (and Im wondering if I'm getting this wrong...) we dont need a massive bar to get them back on again. If you happened to weight 253lb then you stand on a bar 1ft away from the hub (holding onto the gutter obviously). if you weigh 126lb then you stand on the bar 2ft from the hub (gutter etc). this is right, huh?

That is correct for tightening
 
67westy said:
Bluesnailman said:
just reading this post and agree - they dont come off easy and a big bar is useful

however (and Im wondering if I'm getting this wrong...) we dont need a massive bar to get them back on again. If you happened to weight 253lb then you stand on a bar 1ft away from the hub (holding onto the gutter obviously). if you weigh 126lb then you stand on the bar 2ft from the hub (gutter etc). this is right, huh?

That is correct for tightening

Meh - you just do yours hand tight anyway! Isnt that right Adam? :msn4: :msn4:
 
StuF said:
67westy said:
Bluesnailman said:
just reading this post and agree - they dont come off easy and a big bar is useful

however (and Im wondering if I'm getting this wrong...) we dont need a massive bar to get them back on again. If you happened to weight 253lb then you stand on a bar 1ft away from the hub (holding onto the gutter obviously). if you weigh 126lb then you stand on the bar 2ft from the hub (gutter etc). this is right, huh?

That is correct for tightening

Meh - you just do yours hand tight anyway! Isnt that right Adam? :msn4: :msn4:
Torquing is for wimps :) they make a noise that drowns out the engine if you don't tighten them properly

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