Removing wheel with adjustable spring plates?

[sipickup1]

Hi all. Need some help please!!

I bought some spring plates from slamwerks,who also fitted them.I recently wanted new whitewalls on the rear tyres(which are light truck tyres,185/80s on stock 14s).On jacking up my single cab,the rear wheels dont hinge down far enough to remove them,even with the flared 71 arches.I was under the impression that when jacked up,the wheels would just drop down and just slide off??
Dont really want to be on the side of the motorway messing around with the shock mount bolt....didnt think that was the idea??.
Thought it was quick and easy and stress free tyre removal.....please help.
Thankyou,Si.

 

[67westy]

Hi all. Need some help please!!

I bought some spring plates from slamwerks,who also fitted them.I recently wanted new whitewalls on the rear tyres(which are light truck tyres,185/80s on stock 14s).On jacking up my single cab,the rear wheels dont hinge down far enough to remove them,even with the flared 71 arches.I was under the impression that when jacked up,the wheels would just drop down and just slide off??
Dont really want to be on the side of the motorway messing around with the shock mount bolt....didnt think that was the idea??.
Thought it was quick and easy and stress free tyre removal.....please help.
Thankyou,Si.

Probably not much help but I have slamwerks plates and also have to take the bottom shock bolt off to get the wheel out.

 

[Mark6455]

I thought that was one of the plus points with them I've just had thaus ones fitted and was hoping I could get a bigger rear tyre on and still get it off ok????

 

[creationblue]

I need a big long bar to remove my wheels too, the advantages are that you can adjust the rear stance easily. You shouldn't have to change the wheels that offer right? Unless you have a wheel fetish like me

 

[aspro]

Si raises some good points above. The only reason he got the adjustable spring plates was to make the rear wheels easy to remove which he does frequently to change the white flappers. They were sold to him under the pretences that he would be able to remove the rear tyre without any problems at all. What a load of shit.

He came over tonight and we jacked the rear up. I personally thought the adj springplates would hinge quite far down and enable easy wheel removal but I was wrong. I wonder how many other people have bought these with the same assumption.

 

[mister]

I've got Slamwerks spring plates too, they are kicked 25mm, which gives you 25mm more wheel removal clearance than it would if you had obtained the same lowering through splines only. My rear wheels come off OK but you have to let the tyres down. Not perfect but much better.

 

[sparkywig]

Si raises some good points above. The only reason he got the adjustable spring plates was to make the rear wheels easy to remove which he does frequently to change the white flappers. They were sold to him under the pretences that he would be able to remove the rear tyre without any problems at all. What a load of shit.

He came over tonight and we jacked the rear up. I personally thought the adj springplates would hinge quite far down and enable easy wheel removal but I was wrong. I wonder how many other people have bought these with the same assumption.

In which case I won't buy any, leave the Red9 4" plates on and spend the cash on carb jets, petrol or cider.

 

[*Sam*]

I have creative engineering rear plates and they offer enough drop for me to get the rear wheel off without undoing anything other than the wheel bolts.
I didn't rotate round on the splines when fitted so only have the drop that the plates offer, I think around 1".
Hope that helps.

 

[Bwuttonmoon]

I also have creative engineering plates on mine and they drop ok to get the wheel off. I think the problem most people do is also fit shorter shocks which dont alow such a drop as standard?

 

[r73]

if your running adj springplates then your running lower hence the need for shorter shocks - its the shocks that really limit the drop on the plates - hence the need to remove the lower shock bolt to remove wheel.
A bit of a hassle but no biggy really considering how seldom you'll be doing it - unless your Creation Blue that is, or Sparkywig for that matter - wheel whores :lol: :lol:
Im yet to hear of a lowering product being marketed with the all the information available ie pros and cons :msn4:

 

[Alex VW Heritage]

I have them on my bus, 2 spline lowered with the adjustable plates, I run 205/70/15 so fat tyres and can get mine out without a breaker bar or removing the rear shock. I did before having the spring plates have to remove the bottom shock bolt to get the wheel out.

It may be a set up issue rather than the product, but this all depends on how low you go.

Cheers

Alex

 

[67westy]

I have them on my bus, 2 spline lowered with the adjustable plates, I run 205/70/15 so fat tyres and can get mine out without a breaker bar or removing the rear shock. I did before having the spring plates have to remove the bottom shock bolt to get the wheel out.

It may be a set up issue rather than the product, but this all depends on how low you go.

Cheers

Alex

What shocks are you running Alex? I'm down the equivalent of 2 with the plates and have been thinking about longer shocks due to a knocking on the rear. I think it's caused by the shock becoming fully extended rather than under compression

 

[Alex VW Heritage]

That is a very good question they are a pair of Spax adjustables that i must have bought 8 years ago. not sure of exact size sorry.

Easiest way to work out shock length is when the van is fully loaded take the rear shocks off completely push the van forward and back a few times to let things settle and then measure between the centre of the top and bottom shock bolt hole. This gives you a central measurement you should aim to have in the centre of the range of travel of the shock.

Hope this helps.

 

[67westy]

That is a very good question they are a pair of Spax adjustables that i must have bought 8 years ago. not sure of exact size sorry.

Easiest way to work out shock length is when the van is fully loaded take the rear shocks off completely push the van forward and back a few times to let things settle and then measure between the centre of the top and bottom shock bolt hole. This gives you a central measurement you should aim to have in the centre of the range of travel of the shock.

Hope this helps.

Cheers I got the measurements a year or so ago and they looked about right for the shock I have. I think I may just go longer than what is currently there and see how it goes

 

[creationblue]

I need a big long bar to remove my wheels too, the advantages are that you can adjust the rear stance easily. You shouldn't have to change the wheels that offer right? Unless you have a wheel fetish like me

Having said this, I must point out I didnt wind down the plate, if I had then the wheel would have come off without the need for the bar.

 

[yachty]

I find this thread a bit weird. I run adjustables on my crewcab and Bay and have had no troubles removing a 15" Fuch fitted with 195/65 tyre, ever. Yes, it's a little bit of faffing to extend the shock but nothing overly strenuous.
I'm going to ask a silly question for the sake of covering all the bases so dont take offence but you have undone the lock bolt haven't you?