Rewire needed....

[fallingoffalot]

Just have my van at a local air-cooled guy sorting a few bits and bobs out, one of them was that my main beam/headlight fuse kept blowing.

Turns out the fusebox is a bit of a bodge, complete with a short circuit, and some of the wiring is too big (as in higher amperage). There is also an incorrect relay that is preventing main beam latching on. He made it safe and fixed the dipped headlights but suggested that I look at installing a new loom ( he has no time to do it at the moment).

Can anyone recommend somewhere in the Gloucestershire area that could do this for me?

On the plus side, my new JK 4:1 stainless sounds lovely and not as loud as my Vintage sports was (which means I can hear funny noises that I've never heard before!!).

Also replaced all my oil hoses with bio 25 year stuff and my van no longer smells of petrol

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[Walt]

For the loom I'd recommend Iain the Air-cooled electrician - did a great job replacing my old loom. He usually advertises in Hayburner mag.

You mentioned your exhaust was a vintage speed sports & your JK now sounds better. What size engine do you have?

 

[fallingoffalot]

Ok thanks. Is this him? https://www.aircooledautoelec.com/

My engine is a 1776.

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[Nantwich Bus]

Can recommend Iain he really knows his stuff and is a top guy to work with.

 

[fallingoffalot]

Great thanks, I'm just about to commission him to get started!

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[Steve B]

I have a VS exhaust on my bus - sounds deeper but I did lose a little performance from my 4-1 old system. I have GSF stainless on my single cab though - sounds great. Both very different noises for sure.

Tempted to rewire the bus myself. All is ok, but it could do with tidying up. I’m good with electrics, so not worried about doing it - but how tricky would people say it is? My main concern would be the loom under the vehicle and getting it though ok.

'68 Single Cab
'71 Danbury

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[Bluesnailman]

Putting the loom through the chassis is definitely the worst part. As I had run 'extra' wires through though it became very difficult. I'd suggest some new conduit fixed to the chassis with P-clips and would use this next time. In terms of difficulty - a direct "like for like" is on the easier side, but you do end up with a 1960's 'cheep' solution to wiring a van. Buying an off-the shelf loom for this would be wise, as making a loom took me a good long time

I took the opportunity to add a 'big fuse'' and additional fusebox at the rear, high level brake light that can be used as a fog light, relay for starter motor, module for trailer electrics, a system that cut power to the engine if the fire extinguisher got off etc. at the front I added relays for the lights to minimise voltage loss through switches, engine off/lights on buzzer, made my dash indicator arrows work left/right, intermittent and variable speed on wiper motor etc etc. this now has two fuse boxes, one for always on, and the other for ignition on. Bespoke fuses and the right gauge of wire isn't difficult to work out, but your design will take you a while...... I'd do same again if i had to, even though it took a while (its a hobby isn't it...)

 

[Steve B]

Putting the loom through the chassis is definitely the worst part. As I had run 'extra' wires through though it became very difficult. I'd suggest some new conduit fixed to the chassis with P-clips and would use this next time. In terms of difficulty - a direct "like for like" is on the easier side, but you do end up with a 1960's 'cheep' solution to wiring a van. Buying an off-the shelf loom for this would be wise, as making a loom took me a good long time

I took the opportunity to add a 'big fuse'' and additional fusebox at the rear, high level brake light that can be used as a fog light, relay for starter motor, module for trailer electrics, a system that cut power to the engine if the fire extinguisher got off etc. at the front I added relays for the lights to minimise voltage loss through switches, engine off/lights on buzzer, made my dash indicator arrows work left/right, intermittent and variable speed on wiper motor etc etc. this now has two fuse boxes, one for always on, and the other for ignition on. Bespoke fuses and the right gauge of wire isn't difficult to work out, but your design will take you a while...... I'd do same again if i had to, even though it took a while (its a hobby isn't it...)

Good info, thanks.

I’d be buying a good quality off-the-shelf if I did it. I could do with additional cables for sensors etc, but did think it might cause issue somewhere. Like you say, conduit clipped to chassis is probably just as good if tight.


'68 Single Cab
'71 Danbury

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[fallingoffalot]

Sounds like I need to consider future mods, like rev counter, oil temp/pressure.

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[K@rlos]

I have a VS exhaust on my bus - sounds deeper but I did lose a little performance from my 4-1 old system.

Yup, VS are awful for performance. You’d be surprised at how much power you’ve given up as they are basically a stock exhaust by design.

I don’t rate them at all

 

[Steve B]

I have a VS exhaust on my bus - sounds deeper but I did lose a little performance from my 4-1 old system.

Yup, VS are awful for performance. You’d be surprised at how much power you’ve given up as they are basically a stock exhaust by design.

I don’t rate them at all

True. The mild-steel 4-1 had rotted, so went for one of the VS. Look and sound nice, but certainly lost a bit of power.


'68 Single Cab
'71 Danbury

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