Riveted cargo floor

Early Bay Forum

Help Support Early Bay Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Pep

New member
Joined
May 23, 2014
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
I'm about to replace my whole cargo floor,is it ok to pop rivet it down along the support rails as opposed to plug weld then I can lay a nice layer of sealer along each one and it won't be burnt away with welding?
 
No.

I wouldn't buy a van that had had it done that way. Sorry. :)

Why not apply the sealer after?
 
Pep said:
I'm about to replace my whole cargo floor,is it ok to pop rivet it down along the support rails as opposed to plug weld then I can lay a nice layer of sealer along each one and it won't be burnt away with welding?
and can I use some house bricks instead of brakes :shock: :lol:
 
No no no! The floor joins the chassis and the body and integral to the rigidity of the bus! Floor must be welded in fully!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Pep said:
I'm about to replace my whole cargo floor,is it ok to pop rivet it down along the support rails as opposed to plug weld then I can lay a nice layer of sealer along each one and it won't be burnt away with welding?

We were all beginners once. Well done for asking - you have saved yourself a lot of grief by posing that question.

If in doubt, always ask - lots of knowledge and good advice on this forum :)
 
Trikky2 said:
Pep said:
I'm about to replace my whole cargo floor,is it ok to pop rivet it down along the support rails as opposed to plug weld then I can lay a nice layer of sealer along each one and it won't be burnt away with welding?

We were all beginners once. Well done for asking - you have saved yourself a lot of grief by posing that question.

If in doubt, always ask - lots of knowledge and good advice on this forum :)[/quot

All of the above, but a little hint of mickey taking as well :lol: And while we are on the subject of brakes, do you really think bricks on a piece of string are going to be much different to drum brakes anyhow ?? :lol: And as hand brakes they are superb I`ll have you know . :lol:
Some things can be gotten away with with modern adhesives etc, but these are forty years old and ancient technology, and they do require a certain amount of rigidity being a box construction on top of rails so they need the continuity of the `box` to hold it all together. As Trikky says, at least you asked the question and you now know what the consensus of opinion is. Some dummies do things first then ask after, then you end up doing it twice or it just don`t work and you lose the will and the want to keep the project going, and I`ve been very guilty of doing this myself on more than one occasion. There are quite a few that have done this job and done it well during their restos`and you can see some in the section where people show the bus during it`s resto. Good luck with it and fire away with the questions. Are you off to the Aircoole 14 this weekend ? See you there if you can make it. :mrgreen:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,, Might even be sunny :lol: :mrgreen: :lol:
 
So I take it that double sided Sellotape and blutack won't do


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you`d only mentioned bluetack before, why hadn`t I thought of that before I started my resto ??? Oh I know,,,,,,,, because,,,,,,,,,,, then we`d start to talk about ,,,,```Sticky Backed Plastic ``` then nothing would get done at all :mrgreen:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Now would it boyzzzzzzzzz :lol:
 
Not to hijack the thread but on a similar vain. I had a discussion about repair panels being pop riveted or welded. A mate reckons it's ok to pop rivet a repair panel and used to be the norm. I disagreed and said all panels should be welded. His argument. Once filler applied no difference. What's the thoughts on that?
 
thejinx said:
Not to hijack the thread but on a similar vain. I had a discussion about repair panels being pop riveted or welded. A mate reckons it's ok to pop rivet a repair panel and used to be the norm. I disagreed and said all panels should be welded. His argument. Once filler applied no difference. What's the thoughts on that?

He's wrong.

Typically, welded joints are stronger and more rigid than pop rivets. Once filler is applied you won't see the difference, but the welded joint will flex less and last longer. For what it's worth, a previous owner 'repaired' the bottom edge of my sliding door with sheet aluminium and pop rivets, before filling over the top. I now have a crack where the joint has flexed and the filler has cracked.

In addition, any structural areas repaired with pop rivets should fail an MOT. Though if the tester can't tell, it will pass.

I'd not knowingly buy a car that had been repaired by riveting panels (except as a project car). It's a bodge, and will take longer to do properly. In these days of cheap MIG welders, there's no excuse IMO. :)
 
A full penetration weld is assumed to be as strong as the parent material, with a decent welder its easy to get a reasonably good penetration on welds with the relatively thin sheets on these buses.
A pop rivet is usually aluminium, thereofre much softer. Over time on a vibrating and flexing joint will loosen and fail.

Sent from my 02_jbla668 using Tapatalk
 
There's also a safety consideration on outer panels as well as chassis sections. If you pop rivet a new lower front repair panel on for example and then have a head on crash, the riveted panel will offer much less resistance than an original panel or a properly welded one and it'll rip open. You should really weld right across panels like the front, rear arches,sliding door etc, but most people don't because it's too much hassle and they weld maybe 50-75% of the total join. That's still stronger than pop rivets though :)
 
So, when you buy a front panel from the likes of schofield, which has the EB lower part grafted in, joggled and spot welded,
should that then ideally be fully welded as well as the spot welds. :?:
 
Snakey said:
So, when you buy a front panel from the likes of schofield, which has the EB lower part grafted in, joggled and spot welded,
should that then ideally be fully welded as well as the spot welds. :?:

Ideally, yes. It would certainly be stronger, but it takes a lot longer to weld and fill, so most people don't. 'Stronger' is relative here anyway, we're talking about a .75-1mm thickness of metal, in reality it probably makes little diffrence.
 
Thanks for replies guys,everything else is mig welded on.Ill start drilling and cleaning up for plug welds.Too late for the brakes the bricks and string are already fitted
 
Pep said:
Thanks for replies guys,everything else is mig welded on.Ill start drilling and cleaning up for plug welds.Too late for the brakes the bricks and string are already fitted

:lol:

Welcome to the forum, I think you'll fit in 8)
 

Latest posts

Top