Side Window Fitting

[Steve B]

Hi Guys,

I'm renewing the seals to the 2 rearmost side windows. It's a Danbury Panel Conversion.

From what I can make out from this forum and the Late Bay, the process should be:

1) Seal onto glass.
2) Insert trim onto seal.
3) Fit seal and glass into van, using rope pull technique etc.

I've also read, it might be wise to add some WaxOyl to the panel side of the seal too. Also read that a slither of black mastic might be helpful too, as they don't always seal that well.

Can anybody comment how they did theirs? Also, whether to black mastic on glass or panel side of seal. My old seals tended to leak from the glass side i.e water went down and back up the seal.

It seems a straight forward job, just want to get right first time.

Any help would be appreciated!

Cheers.

 

[Resto-raider]

I did it like you said, but with some dishwashing soap on the rubber. I also used a big window suction cup to hold the window in place with one hand and pull the rope with the other hand.
More convenient would be to have a mate help you out pushing against the window from the outside.

Good luck.

 

[Steve B]

I did it like you said, but with some dishwashing soap on the rubber. I also used a big window suction cup to hold the window in place with one hand and pull the rope with the other hand.
More convenient would be to have a mate help you out pushing against the window from the outside.

Good luck.

Nice one - thanks for that.

Did you use any mastic at all?

Also, where did you get the new seals from? I got mine from JK which seem good quality, albeit actually slimmer than my old ones. So long as they cover all the metal, than I guess it's OK, and might actually look a little better, as they might not stick out as much.

Cheers.

 

[mattyd72]

I did it like you said, but with some dishwashing soap on the rubber. I also used a big window suction cup to hold the window in place with one hand and pull the rope with the other hand.
More convenient would be to have a mate help you out pushing against the window from the outside.

Good luck.

Nice one - thanks for that.

Did you use any mastic at all?

Also, where did you get the new seals from? I got mine from JK which seem good quality, albeit actually slimmer than my old ones. So long as they cover all the metal, than I guess it's OK, and might actually look a little better, as they might not stick out as much.

Cheers.

Washing up liquid contains salt don't do it!

I have always used waxoyl liberally brushed around the aperture then once the window is in a quick wipe clears any excess.


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[Steve B]

I did it like you said, but with some dishwashing soap on the rubber. I also used a big window suction cup to hold the window in place with one hand and pull the rope with the other hand.
More convenient would be to have a mate help you out pushing against the window from the outside.

Good luck.

Nice one - thanks for that.

Did you use any mastic at all?

Also, where did you get the new seals from? I got mine from JK which seem good quality, albeit actually slimmer than my old ones. So long as they cover all the metal, than I guess it's OK, and might actually look a little better, as they might not stick out as much.

Cheers.

Washing up liquid contains salt don't do it!

I have always used waxoyl liberally brushed around the aperture then once the window is in a quick wipe clears any excess.


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Yeah Matty, I wouldn't use soap stuff either due to salt content.

Think Waxoyl is best idea. Any thoughts on the mastic bit?

Years ago when I was younger, I worked in a Bike Shop repairing cycles at Weekends and School holidays. The best product we used for seals and handlebar grips was...... HairSpray. When sprayed on, it allowed all seals and grips to slide on nicely, but after 15mins or so, they gripped like glue and never came loose. Used that process on 1,000s of bikes, costing from £100 to £5,000. It never corroded and never caused any paint issues. We weren't a back-street set-up either, we were one of the main outlets in the North of England, with International Mail-Order sales (no internet sales back then!).

Cheers.

 

[Graham L]

If it's the rubber seal that has a thin triangular fillet that expands the seal once it's in then you fit the fillet after you have put the window and rubber into the bus, then no need to string it in etc.

 

[Resto-raider]

I never heard of salt in dishwashing soap, but then again I never tasted it.
It worked for me, but next time I will try something different.

 

[mattyd72]

I never heard of salt in dishwashing soap, but then again I never tasted it.
It worked for me, but next time I will try something different.

Yeah, its the sodium content that breaks through the grease.
It does leave your hands fairy soft if the right brand is used though


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[Steve B]

If it's the rubber seal that has a thin triangular fillet that expands the seal once it's in then you fit the fillet after you have put the window and rubber into the bus, then no need to string it in etc.

Yes, that's the one.

So no need to string it then? Just 'lube it up' push it in, then fit the triangular fillet?

These are the ones: http://www.justkampers.com/261-845-321-side-window-seal-for-converted-vans-vw-t2-bay-1967-1979-vw-t25-1979-1992.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I also bought the Diamond lacing tool. I presume therefore this is used instead of the rope?

Cheers.

 

[Graham L]

If the diamond lacing tool is the handle with the diamond shaped end then that's for inserting the fillet once the window and rubber are in the bus,

 

[Steve B]

If the diamond lacing tool is the handle with the diamond shaped end then that's for inserting the fillet once the window and rubber are in the bus,

Ace, that makes sense.

So just to confirm, rubber on glass, then glass and rubber onto van. Just lube up and push on? Fit glass from the inside, pushing it outwards?

Thanks Graham for the help - appreciated.

 

[smokehouse]

just use windex or an off brand it evaporates after the window is put in.

 

[Andy_sheff]

Fit the glass from the outside, if it's deluxe insert then you want to put the insert in the rubber before you fit the whole thing. Rubber on glass, insert in, fit it, you need two people to do it right

 

[robins]

Fit the glass from the outside, if it's deluxe insert then you want to put the insert in the rubber before you fit the whole thing. Rubber on glass, insert in, fit it, you need two people to do it right

no deluxe inserts here conversion glass rubbers

 

[Steve B]

Well, after all this, the seals were wrong.

JK supply the right profile, but wrong size. Tried to fit, and it just wasn't happening!

Panel is 1.5mm thick, with glass being 5mm, the seal sent struggled to accept the 5mm.

I researched more and found a direct supplier http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; who offer every size possible, and the same that I cut out.

They offer 100s of seals for cars, boats, buses etc. Certainly worth looking at. I wouldn't be surprised if they supply JK and VW H with some of their gear.

Official instructions for fitting, are:

Fit the rubber seal around the aperture pushing it well into the corners to determine the length required. Cut the rubber approx. 25mm over length with good square joints to make a really tight butt joint. Remove the seal and apply a small bead of silicone sealant into the panel groove and then refit the rubber around the aperture, ensuring that the butt joint is at the top.

With the rubber in place apply a small bead of silicone into the window groove. Push the window into the rubber seal at the bottom. Using the glazing tool work the lip of the rubber over the edge of the window.

To fit the filler strip, feed it through the eye of the glazing tool and then work it into the channel in the rubber seal. Use plenty of lubricant to ease fitment. Start with the joint at the bottom (opposite that of the rubber section). Be careful not to stretch the filler strip as you go, otherwise it will shrink back at a later date. Cut the end with a few millimetres of overlap and push it into the groove so that it butts the other end with a tight joint.

I've ordered these and will comment on quality when they arrive. Check their website though, it's very interesting.

Thanks guys.

 

[Bazzaworld]

What a load of old cock some people talk, I replaced all my rubbers using washing up liquid in 2000 that's 15 years ago , not perished, not leaking and still look good,I suppose the salt will get them in the end

 

[Steve B]

What a load of old cock some people talk, I replaced all my rubbers using washing up liquid in 2000 that's 15 years ago , not perished, not leaking and still look good,I suppose the salt will get them in the end

It's not the rubbers it affects, it's more the salt content in the washing up liquid can speed up rust in the area if the paintwork is not 100%. The liquid will dry, leaving a residue between the seal and body. The said residue contains an element of Sodium.

That ain't 'old cock' - it's the exact same reason behind not washing a car with washing up liquid.

Each to their own though....

 

[Bazzaworld]

I must have used salt free washing up liquid because I've no rust what so ever and it's been 15 long years

 

[Steve B]

I must have used salt free washing up liquid because I've no rust what so ever and it's been 15 long years

Yours a panel conversion or standard factory window?

If paintwork is fine, then it'll probably be ok. But if you know the salt content, then it's just something else to be aware of. I'd guess with the design of seals, you wouldn't tell without removing the rubbers anyway if any rust had started anyway.