Spraying the lower half???

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rustydiver

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Going to give it a go and spay the lower half of the van. Im going to use cellouse paint and get 2 ltrs of it.
Never done it before but got use of some spray equipment and my mates workshop.

Is it a matter of a quick rub down and blast it with the paint. Not looking for perfection just one colour, will be paying someone in a few yrs for perfection.
Do i need to primer it all first or do i need to use a stopper coat to stop any reactions with the paints.

Tips and advice would be a great help.
 
Only thing to be aware of is what paint you are painting on top of. Generally a reaction can occur where paint layers have been feathered out and are exposed (like rings on a tree trunk), if you are in doubt prime the whole bottom half.
Best of luck ;)

this website has loads of good tips and info 8)
http://www.migwelding.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Sorry, :lol: :oops: try this link instead


http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Ringing up isn't a reaction as such, its just bad prep. It's more aparrent on dark colours. As a rule of thumb if you expose a number of layers you want to feather each layer to at least 15mm (so each ring has a thickness of 15mm) its best to do this with a flat block or on a DA (assuming you have correct DA technique and keep the pad flat, if you are sanding a curve you will need an interface pad)
If you do gash prep and don't feather your edges, even if you hit it with high build the paint and primer will sink over a period of time as the paint properly sets and the rings will show through. So after a month or two you poor prep will start to show, even if the it looked mint as it rolled out the booth.

Reactions tend to occur from surface contaminants such as silicone or the paint on the surface reacting with the new paint. You should get away with it unless its been painted with something gash like dulux kitchen and bathroom or hammerite!

If the paint on the van at the moment is good you can just key it up with red scotchbrite and a scuffing compound (such as 3M Scuff It)

If there is rust or flaking paint or other damage you will need to do spot repairs and then prime it. If the repairs are kept local you can use a 1 pack high build in a rattle can (ProXL do a good one, Upol High 5 is ****) Flat your repairs back with P600 and you'll be ready to paint.

Remember to pre-clean all your panels prior to work to remove tar and road film. Also remember to blow down all the gaps after washing off the scuffing compound, and after degreasing as moisture collects in the panel gaps. Then its just a case of tack ragging off and painting.
 

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