Talk to me about engine configurations please!

[who?1]

Due to the Eriba Puck purchase last month and a very slow trip along the North Devon link road a couple of weekends ago i have decided to go bigger.
I have a tired 1641 engine that I am going to have align bored and balanced then a good friend is going to help me with the rebuild.

My dilemma is...and I understand I am opening a can of worms here;
Bearing in mind and taking into account that I will be pulling an Eriba Puck.

Will a 69 stroke be better with 90.5 or 94 pistons and barrels ie giving 1776 or 1914cc? What if any would be the pitfalls?

I want it to be reliable and have enough grunt to pull the puck. A stroker is I think, going to be too far out of my budget!

Any helpful thoughts greatly received.

 

[kid rock]

I'd go 1776. 90.5 barrels have a greater thickness walls allowing better heat dispersal. I dragged an Eriba familia round with my split. It had a 1776 in it. One word for it. Bulletproof!

 

[megaaircooledvw]

I'd go 1776. 90.5 barrels have a greater thickness walls allowing better heat dispersal.

Spot on a good 1776 with good carbs will give you 100HP

 

[who?1]

Thanks for your input.

I have a pair of 40 IDF's that need a rebuild.

I plan on going stock otherwise. Would full flow with external filter and cooler be a necessity ?

 

[megaaircooledvw]

Thanks for your input.

I have a pair of 40 IDF's that need a rebuild.

I plan on going stock otherwise. Would full flow with external filter and cooler be a necessity ?

No but it all helps,keep it cool

 

[who?1]

Thanks,

That's what I thought

Thank you.

 

[kid rock]

Ring dellorto (Eurocarb) to get the right setup for your carbs. It makes a hell of a difference!

 

[K@rlos]

Any engine size is reliable if built right

 

[Alex VW Heritage]

you will be paying to have the heads an case machined out, so I would personally go 94mm, you will get far more torque from a 1915 than a 1776cc.

I would deffos go full flow at the same time, by pulling the extra weight you will be putting a eater load on the engine causing it to heat up, full flow will help this, you will also be future proofing yourself by having all the machining done now at once rather than thinking about it later and having to do a second strip down and trip to the machinists.

I would also consider adding a mild cam an engle 110 would work well, and match porting and head work done will also reap the biggest benefits,

this will give you torque which is what your after,

Hope this helps,

Cheers

Alex

 

[who?1]

Many thanks Alex.

Will a 1915 run slightly hotter than a 1776 or will the thermostat on the remote cooler over come this?

I have an Engle 110 cam in the 1641 I am about to strip down. As yet I dont know what condition it is in.

What full flow kit and what B and P's would you suggest please?

Regards

Matt

 

[sparkywig]

Thanks for your input.

I have a pair of 40 IDF's that need a rebuild.

I plan on going stock otherwise. Would full flow with external filter and cooler be a necessity ?

If you're towing, then yes, add a cooler. My 2054 ran fine and cool without an external cooler until I started towing the Rapido.
The Rapido on the back certainly increased engine temperature going by the savemybug oil temp dipstick.

 

[vassy69SC]

Many thanks Alex.

Will a 1915 run slightly hotter than a 1776 or will the thermostat on the remote cooler over come this?

I have an Engle 110 cam in the 1641 I am about to strip down. As yet I dont know what condition it is in.

What full flow kit and what B and P's would you suggest please?

Regards

Matt

The 1915 will run hotter.
If you want ideal then a 78mm stroke with the 90.5mm barrels would really make the whole engine superb.
I know it is an extra cost but the result will outweigh this over time.

 

[Alex VW Heritage]

Many thanks Alex.

Will a 1915 run slightly hotter than a 1776 or will the thermostat on the remote cooler over come this?

I have an Engle 110 cam in the 1641 I am about to strip down. As yet I dont know what condition it is in.

What full flow kit and what B and P's would you suggest please?

Regards

Matt

In my opinion no it won't run hotter as you will be loading a 1776cc much harder than a 1915cc so that will outweigh the difference.

When getting the case machined that is the time to consider adding the full flow, there are many different ways to do this but my preference is an out from your oil pump (requires modification of the brace bar and a plug in the case) and ten returning back into your main oil gallery (require a fitting in the case). If you sue a machine shop that know VW's they will happily advise on this.

The cheaper repro AA B&P's will be m ore than up to the task, I know people running them in 2387's with high compression and wild cams.

Hope that helps,

Cheers

Alex