thread stripped in oil pressure switch, help needed

[uber cool]

Cock- the leaking oil pressure switch is due to a stripped thread, Thought it was odd that the switch looked new but was still leaking. Removed it to fit another switch and no thread left :evil:

Anybody heli coiled it in situ? I think the thread is M10 x 1.

 

[froggy]

Have you tried a thread sealant?
I've used locktite before (on other cars) to help when the threads have been a little worn (any who used to have a Mini will know all about worn threads on the sump plug!)
Make sure you get a thread lock and not a stud lock though

 

[uber cool]

threads completely gone, can push the oil pressure switch in the hole :shock:

 

[froggy]

Its going to need helicoiling then, dont know if this is wise to do without splitting the case though as it will need the hole drilling out and then a new thread ran in before fittinghelicoil insert.
Sorry cant be more help

 

[dubdubz]

if you are careful ... u can drill and helicoil it is v fiddly

you will need to drain oil though

spray degreaser/clutch cleaner something to remove as much of the oil as possible the swarf sticks to it.

the u need 2 small cotton patches 60mmx60mm guess

push cloth [don't use tissue] into the hole and push one towards the front with a stout piece of wire, just enough to ensure it doesn't get caught with the drill bit, do the other patch the other way....so the gallery is blocked.

drill hoover whilst drilling [ie get an assistant to hold] then tap, for helicoil .....hoover hole ...fit helicoil

very carefully with super long nose with a kinked end! or with a wire hook pull cotton out...slowly is best....hoover after each patch removed.

that's how I did it once, hand cranked :roll: and drained oil and refilled, changed oil at probably 100-150miles if I remember...there was a couple of tiny swarf bits in but wouldn't know if this was from something else!!

DISCLAIMER IT MAY NOT WORK FOR YOU AND THEREFORE I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILTY FOR A DEAD OR KNACKERED ENGINE

 

[james_stan]

Looks like good advice.

I've always thought (possibly wrongly) that small bits of the magnesium case couldn't do too much damage cos it's
so soft - unlike a bit of grit/sand which is uber-hard.

BR

James

 

[dubdubz]

any metal, I think will score the bearings I think and it is good practice to keep swarf out of the engine!!

it was painfully slow but quicker than engine disassembly and strip!!

 

[uber cool]

thanks, think that's the job for this weekend.

 

[dubdubz]

I also spent awhile trying to work out if I could get a wax in there, which would be removed with heat, but the cotton seemed to work

I have heard of people 'pressurizing' the case with compressed air so swarf blows out, not sure how easy that would be?

 

[james_stan]

..I think and it is good practice to keep swarf out of the engine!!

For sure. Just trying to say that there is probably worse debris than soft mag alloy swarf, so if you did miss some tiny bits I wouldn't fret too much -especially if you have full-flow filtering.

Cheers

James

 

[BJ1]

I've done this a couple of times. I too stuffed some rag deep into the hole, tapped the hole and helicoiled it, then blew the swarf out by using a 5mm tube on the end of my blow gun. Just put the tube as far as it will go and give a quick blast. BUT - have a really good look at the case before you start - I have seen several vans where people have screwed the switch in too hard and split the case around the hole. It can be repaired but it's engine out to do it!

Remember that torque setting for the switch is a measly 7 ft lbs. In other words, screw it in finger tight then one full turn with a spanner - no more please! It has a tapered thread so will damage the case if screwed in too hard.

 

[uber cool]

Okay thanks to fellow EB member (Neil 69) now back up and running, :mrgreen:

managed to insert the Helicoil without removing or stripping the engine down. So that saved a lot of tears and a potential of not going to dubfreeze in the van