treating rust bubbles....?

[slow-lane-Matt]

I have done a search on other threads, but can't find one basic enough to help me...

I've decided to attack the bubbles - the area is a mixture of rust, filler, gap and old repair panel.

I appreciate welding may be required - I am just looking to clean it up to see what state it is in.

Any advice much appreciated !

 

[Trikky2]

I hope I am wrong but that looks like old filler that's blown from the back meaning that if you start removing it you will find holes rusted through.

Have a look at some of the resto threads in the gallery section of the forum to see what is involved. Then decide what to do.

 

[Happystamps]

Front arch, yes? Have a look from behind to confirm Mr. Trikky's suspicion. It should be single-skinned at the lip area.

Now, if you're hell bent on repairing it or having it repaired regardless- and why wouldn't you be- I'd recommend an angle grinder and a knotted cup brush to find out what's going on there. Strips the paint and rot right off, and you'd need the angle grinder anyway, in order to cut the metal and grind down the welds. Also it make you feel 300% more manly. For cutting metal I'd use a plasma disc (1mm thick rather than 3mm- zips straight through the metal) and for dressing the welds use a sanding backing and a few 36 grit discs for it.

Don't bother using a drill, you'll ruin the bearings in half an hour or so. They aren't meant for side loads.

 

[slow-lane-Matt]

Thanks Trikky, Happystamps

OK - I'm commmitted - don't know where it will end !!!

I have a 230mm grinder which is way too big (?) - but I have no experience of smaller grinders.
Could you recommend the best size size for car repairs (115mm or smaller ?)

It seems previous repair consisted partly of welding new patch on top of rusty OG panel...

Also accounts why there is no gap between body and bumper....

 

[Trikky2]

Yes 115 grinder wil work fine. You will of course have to remove the bumper.

Good that you already have experience of grinders

 

[Happystamps]

You gave it a bit of a poke then :lol:

Doesn't look that bad mate, do you have MIG experience & access?

In my experience, time spent cleaning up the metal and properly understanding the condition of the area is always well spent.

Check the back of the panel out too where it's double-skinned, and really investigate the bottom section as it can be something of a water trap. I mean, mine weren't- but that's only because they weren't there. :lol:

Best of luck, and try to keep the original metal on the door entry if you can- you don't want to let in a whole new arch and find that the door doesn't shut.

Si

 

[bigdeano]

Probably a bit too early to ask but anyone know the best filler to use?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[slow-lane-Matt]

I think I am beyond a bit of filler ?



Is fitting the central section of one of these the only reasonable next step...?

Any other options, comments...?

 

[marco]

just get some sheet steel and cut pieces to fit, saves cutting a repair panel to bits.

 

[slow-lane-Matt]

hmmm - not what I wanted to find, but no going back now...!

 

[slow-lane-Matt]

I realise this is hardly worthy of mention compared to some of the epic builds on here - but thought I'd continue the thread just in case any other
amateur was interested to see what was involved. (I realise I should have replaced the whole section, but what's the fun in that!)

Inner and outer patches - curved bits were difficult to make with only a hammer and vice - but just about got there in the end:


Inner section :



with patch, the area was sprayed with weld through primer before patch attached



For the outside it was too difficult to make one big patch - so settling for 2 smaller ones - the remaining one should be quite straight forward as it's mostly flat.

First ever welding, bought Clarke 135TE - watched some youtube videos and spend a happy few hours burning up bits of metal.
It is one thing practising welding on a bench - quite different welding outside, vertically with a patch that's slightly thicker than the OG bus metal.

The reason buses rust here is rain runs down the window, inside the door, out the door drain hole and sits on the seam in the step, eventually rusting through to this
section where it is trapped. I am considering drilling a drain hole to let water drain out of this section, but am yet undecided if that would let more rain in from being
flicked up from front wheel. Has anyone got a solution to this...?

Any hints and suggestions on any of this very welcome...

 

[Zcat7]

There's only one way to learn and that is "get involved"! Doesn't really matter what the pros would do, if you're learning, having fun and keeping your bus on the road that's got to be all that matters.

Well done, you're braver than me!

 

[slow-lane-Matt]

I was putting it off, never having welded, bent metal or used filler before, but bought the old bus with the intention of working on it myself and it's a real contrast to the day job!

Now have to find a lighter version of L380 Turqis Blau, then attack the other side, cab floor, rear arches, seat belt mounts, and all the other rusty bits...

 

[bubba dubba]

Good job that, give yourself a pat on the back, id be well chuffed if I got a finish like that on my first attempt.

kev

 

[samgopsill]

well done dude that looks top notch!

as for paint, take a bit of bus to your local paint supplier (as in auto paint)

i took a bit i'd cut off my bus, but you could take your fuel cap

they will mix you some paint up that is a perfect match, making it loads easier to blend in post- spray

my local shop even sell it in rattle cans if you don't have a compressor

good luck mate, will be interesting to see the fully finished article!

sam

 

[slow-lane-Matt]

Thanks for all the tips and encouragement.

Went to a paint shop and they scanned the paint - the machine they had only scanned to the nearest standard colour, as opposed the scanning the exact colour - but it's near enough for me - it was never going to be a show bus.

 

[StuF]

Looks like a fantastic job there mate! Wish I had the skills 8)

 

[Herman ver2]

I realise this is hardly worthy of mention compared to some of the epic builds on here - but thought I'd continue the thread just in case any other
amateur was interested to see what was involved. (I realise I should have replaced the whole section, but what's the fun in that!)

Inner and outer patches - curved bits were difficult to make with only a hammer and vice - but just about got there in the end:


Inner section :



with patch, the area was sprayed with weld through primer before patch attached



For the outside it was too difficult to make one big patch - so settling for 2 smaller ones - the remaining one should be quite straight forward as it's mostly flat.

First ever welding, bought Clarke 135TE - watched some youtube videos and spend a happy few hours burning up bits of metal.
It is one thing practising welding on a bench - quite different welding outside, vertically with a patch that's slightly thicker than the OG bus metal.

The reason buses rust here is rain runs down the window, inside the door, out the door drain hole and sits on the seam in the step, eventually rusting through to this
section where it is trapped. I am considering drilling a drain hole to let water drain out of this section, but am yet undecided if that would let more rain in from being
flicked up from front wheel. Has anyone got a solution to this...?

Any hints and suggestions on any of this very welcome...

That seam in the step was not originally there. That's only on aftermarket parts. I cut off the tab and spot welds and welded the seam along the edge so there are no gaps.