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Realised the MOT expired last week :shock: So had to borrow a few bits back from the mocked up porsche engine to go for an MOT.

It passed, no advisories :mrgreen:

Had a few problems with the posrche engine, its running on 3 cylinders, 2 on the right bank and 1 on the left. Its all to do with the balancing of the carbs and air flow, so will just have to take my time and play around with it.

Also the oil pressure sender hasnt been working, so no oil pressure readings, I know there is good pressure as we cracked the oil sender off and oil spurted out under pressure :lol:
Just bothers me that I havent got a reading. A new VDO sender is £70 plus VAT, as porsche made the sender thread M18 :evil: Hence the standard after market oil pressure sender at 1/8 NPT wont fit. So went to my local hydraulic and air fitting merchant and bought a few fittings to adapt the knackered sender to 1/8 NPT.

first cut off the old sender, then drilled out to 10mm to take the 1/8 NPT female threaded fitting.
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then welded the fitting into place. For the time being going to run it off a direct oil fed mechanical pressure gauge screwed directly into this fitting. Then hunt on ebay for a matched pressure gauge and sender. Also got the Y piece so I can also run an oil pressure light switch and the sender off the same point on the engine.
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Managed to get in the garage on Saturday after a long time of not being in the garage :cry:

Anyway had another play with the Porsche engine, still struggling to get it running on all cylinders due to carb balancing etc. So gave up on that whilst a scratch my head and work out what's wrong :cry:

Fitted the late bay disc setup about 18 months ago but suffered bad pad wear and slight dragging with the squeek squeek of dragging pads on hot days. Assumed as others have said need to change the brake master cylinder to a late bay disc type. However saw a post from Strongy suggesting an inline valve was fitted to the early drum brake master cyinder to hold the shoes close to the drums and that the valve can be removed. So exchanged a pm with Strongy and he point me in the right direction.

The Master Cylinder has 3 ouputs, 1 at the front for the rear brakes and 2 at the rear of the MC for the front brakes ( I know sounds a little ares about) Between the output of the MC and the brake pipe 11mm spanner is a large nut containing the one way valve, see photo below.
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You need to disconnect the brake pipe with an 11mm spanner than remove the valve with a 17mm spanner, photo below shows valve removed.

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With a pair of pliers or grips remove the valve, as shown in the photo below.

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As per Haynes manual quote, refit is reversal of removal. :lol:
Dont forgot to bleed the brakes and top up the brake fluid, quick test round the block and no more dragging brakes , tada!

thanks Strongy for the tip :mrgreen:
 
Great news about the brake issue :D

Its great when a solution to fix a problem ends up being simple, unlike the carbs :(
 
gninnam said:
Great news about the brake issue :D

Its great when a solution to fix a problem ends up being simple, unlike the carbs :(
Oh yeah love that simple fix. it's stuff like that that makes this forum gold dust :mrgreen:

At least my bay is on the road so when I get :evil: with the Porsche engine I can still go for a spin to cheer me up :mrgreen:
 
Haveacamper said:
i know what you mean about going for a spin...that is something that i havent been able to do over the last 3 1/2yrs :( mind you, driving it the other day has seriously helped.

NaFe
I bet that's given you a mega boost, bet you dont want to strip it down for painting yet!
 
yes and no really. yes cos i now want to drve it all finished and nice...lol

getting the bus into the bodyshop will free up space and i can then concentrate one getting the engine running. what did you do for an ignition etc for running the engine on the stsand?
 
Had a board behind the engine with MSD, fuel pump, alternator relay and two 12v feeds one switch live and one perm 12v. Then ran the equipment off these. It's a good idea as it make you think what will be needed when it in the van. The bellhousing is fastened to a late bay bellhousing which is bolted to the engine stand.
 
i saw the pics showing the engine stand. i was tempted to use the wiring loom i have made that is installed in the bus as this will be removed when the bus goes to the paintshop. if i do go down the route of this it will give me a vote of confidence of the wiring loom but i will have to ensure i insulate loose ends
 
Haveacamper said:
i saw the pics showing the engine stand. i was tempted to use the wiring loom i have made that is installed in the bus as this will be removed when the bus goes to the paintshop. if i do go down the route of this it will give me a vote of confidence of the wiring loom but i will have to ensure i insulate loose ends
Yes, its also a lot easier to sort out on the stand at waist height rather than learning into the engine bay over the engine. Just lay everything out roughly in the right place around the engine so you can transfer into the van when ready.
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Guys I need your help.

I've got total peed off with the Porsche engine not running right. Think it's the carbs. So much that I've listed the engine on eBay and bought an Alfa 1.7 8v twin dellorto motor instead. It will need an adaptor plate and somewhere to mount the rad.

However I'm now having second thoughts in selling the Porsche motor. The Alfa is about the same bhp at 115 porsche 125. It will be loads cheaper to get running. But I don't think it will be the same and it not air cooled. What do you all think?
 
Mate don't do it! As u know I've experienced ur woes for the last 18months. Between having the bus running, then not then running again. Now I have a compression issue with the no.2 cylinder that I want to srt out before dressing the engine and putting in the bus

I presume uve checkedd the spark and compression etc of ALL cylinders and valve timings and clearances?

Stick with it...have a break with the trailer etc and work on it again! Be a shame to lose the work u've done. I was in ur position several times wanting to sell it, but Loxy on here told me to stick with it and now at least I have it running

NaFe
 
Your probably right.

Yep checked and re checked valve gaps, cam timing, ignition timing, compression etc. Problem with the carbs is you can't easily buy the spares. So can't really just buy new carbs. Have even considered just running with a single holley carb. But again that not right either.
 
I'm biased...just finished putting a scoob engine in mine.
I was looking for more power without the price tag and headache and having just got it on the road I'm very pleased at the mo....there are headaches along the way with cooling etc, but worth it in the end, unless you have issues with it not being aircooled.
Simple 115bhp scoob engine...cheap, ready supply, fits in perfectly and looks at home in the engine bay...and (fingers crossed) reliable!
Anyway, up to you in the end!
Good luck
Al

PS: that porsche engine does look the bollox though! :msn4:
 
the first engine i bought for my bus was an alfa 145 16v 1.7cc engine. sounded awsome but adapter plates are a bit thin on the ground and the thought of trying to keep it cool in the back was a nightmare. stick with the porsche engine or go for a proper punper diesel lump like a 150bhp. power and economy. once my bus hits the road with its aaz lump, as soon as the rest of it is finished i will be on the hunt for a mk4 golf pumper diesel engine to swap in.
 
Stick with the Porsche lump :D it'll just feel right when it's done 8)

The Zeniths are good carbs when working properly and you can still get most bits (and upgrade parts) for them, although mostly from the states, as you've found.

What running problems are you having with it now? Or still the same and only firing on 3 :?:

For my money, Alfa lump will lack torque in a bus, would opt for Subaru or Wasserboxer if felt the need to hang a radiator under the bus.
 
maybe I've had a little help from up above 8)

Went to check the ebay listing for my Porsche engine last night and stumbled across a pair of zenith triple carbs for sale in Buxton. I needed to go to Northampton today and Buxton is about halfway, couldnt have been better if I'd planned it :mrgreen:

Anyway cut a long story short I'm now the new owner of another pair of Zenith Carbs :mrgreen: :mrgreen: with no bits missing or seized mixture and air by pass screws (which is the problem with the current carbs).

So hopefully will be on the garage tomorrow night to try them on the engine once i've given them a quick strip and inspection.

So Porsche engine back on plan :mrgreen: , maybe I'll use the alfa engine in the Volksrod we are building.

The new babies :D
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