Waxoil n Underseal

[RICH-I-AM]

Im lucky enough to own a rustfree(well almost :mrgreen: ) 70 Bay.The engines out and going in shortly.Im planning to clean out the engine bay and protect it from the wonderfull UK weather.
Before the motor goes back in i want to protect the rear chassis as much as poss.
What should i use in the rear chassis,wax,underseal or other.....?
Im concerned about fire risks of wax near the engine.
There seems to be reasonable clearence between the chassis and heat exchangers etc but advice would be a bonus.
What did you do :?:

p.s its running a standard 1600 sp motor.


Rich 8)

 

[chrisby]

I use clear Waxoyl because I always like to see whats going on (rust wise).Spray mine on,but it does stink for a week or so because of the over spray.Used 5 Ltrs last year will do the same again soon,seems to do the trick.

 

[mattp]

If in doubt clean up any areas of bodywork that need paint and brush on new paint then mist on a coat of clear waxoil.

 

[Doris]

make sure its the best you can get it before covering it as once its on then thats what you're preserving. I would go for Waxoyl over underseal any day. underseal tends to dry and crack over time, letting moisture in and trapping it where as waxoyl stays pretty supple.

 

[aogrady]

Hi!

How about using some paint like Rustoleum? You can get it made up in colours like pearle white in my case, and is a similar product to Hammerite but without the hammered finish - can be sprayed or painted on, so rust proof and new paint at once, and surely must look better than greasy old waxoil?

Google it and see what you think.

Alistair

 

[noddy]

Waxoyl si the best stuff I have used so far. Get the extension probe and the pressure pump, thin with white spirit about 30%.

Remember rot starts inside the box sections not the other way round.

The company that make waxoyl also make a bitumen under seal which contains waxoyl, I use this in all the high exposure areas i.e. wheel arches out side of chassis rails and underside of load floor, and hard to reach areas like cargo floor corrugations I still spray with wax.

Its also worth doing inside the doors and tail gate with a mist spray mainly on the seams.

Your going to find it hard to spray in the cold weather, unless you have a heated garage, the waxoyl with set in the probe as you spray.

One last tip get your self a big sheet of polyethylene to catch the wayoyl that comes out of the drain points if you keep the sheet free of mud and grit you will be able to reuse the waxoyl that comes out.

It does work my current van is the third vehicle Ive used it on and each has shown no signs of rot over three to five years.

As mentioned earlier it does stink for a while after but the worst of any solvent should have gone in 24 hours.

 

[currylager]

Waxoyl (finnegans) also make a good quality underseal which does actually contain waxoyl and remains more flexible than some of the old style underseals, good stuff. Obviously waxoyl is totally useless for wheel arches etc, the spray washes it off :wink:

 

[RICH-I-AM]

So i can safely spray decent quality wax into the rear section of the chassis(near the engine) without any probs :?: .
Wont be using the van till spring. Will be kept at work(luck permitting) till then.

Was thinking of stonechipping the external box and floors, letting it dry and going over that with wax fortified underseal.Good plan :?:
All opinions very welcome.
If this bus rusts away i cant afford another :| :mrgreen: :| .

Cheers

Rich

 

[noddy]

Yes you will be ok to spray the box sections, as for stone chip coatings like shutz, I would avoid any rubber based sprays. If water gets under it, 1 you wont know, 2 it will trap the water and rot the shell with out you being able to see it.

The waxoyl bitumen underseal will do the job comes in a tin brush or spray on contains the same rust killing ingredient as the wax. Just check it over one a year and remove any lose and repaint.

I did mine 2 years ago Ive done about 10K since and its still good.

 

[aogrady]

Hi!

How about waxoil/dinitrol all the box sectiions, doors, sills etc, and then paint the wheelarches, outer sills, belly pans etc in Rustoleum? Colour matched paint too?

I really need to do my van, as it's rust free, and been in the country a year now.....

Alistair

 

[noddy]

Alistair

Check out this article it compares the performance of rust preventing paints over about 2 years http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131753" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; page 7 might be of interest shows how rustolium performs.

As for dinitrol Ive never used it so dont know how it preforms.

If the paint is currently good on the underside of your van why over paint?

 

[aogrady]

Alistair

Check out this article it compares the performance of rust preventing paints over about 2 years http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131753" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; page 7 might be of interest shows how rustolium performs.

As for dinitrol Ive never used it so dont know how it preforms.

If the paint is currently good on the underside of your van why over paint?

Hi!

Interesting reading.......though final outcome seems much of a muchness. Reading bettween the lines that is.

The paint has a very thin black underseal coating, but flakling off in places leaving the pearle white underneath. Was thinking of using petrol or thinners to try and shift the old underseal and paint over the top - rustoleum was a choice, as i can get it made up in the colour i need...

Anything must be better than just leaving it to start to rust, as as there isn't any there to start with, surely should be ok??

Alistair

 

[noddy]

Alistair

That about how mine was, all I did was to gently wire brush any loose mud or under seal off and then painted over it with waxoyl bitumen under seal.

To paint it you will need to prep the surface to make sure you get good adhesion of the new paint.

If your set on painting I would scrape off as much of the old under seal as you can before you resort to petrol, once you start using petrol it will soften and spread around.

Then you will need to degrease the surface to remove any oil/grease traces before you can paint otherwise you new paint is likely to flake, POR15 make a degreaser which you can get from frost.co.uk.

Let me know how you get on.

 

[aogrady]

Hi!

it;s all in the prep! Not sire wjen i will do it, too bloody cold, will be summer at this rate....

Will post again once i start

Alistair

 

[Nic B-C]

Sorry ive never understood this arguement that underseal traps in water....old underseal may flake and make little pockets but its a yearly thing.

With yours clean off all loose underseal and was thoroughly to remove all salt deposits as its these not the water which cause rust.

When dry then you can underseal that is once you have checked for any areas where paint may have come off and remedy

 

[AxlFoley]

i havent read the whole thread, but i personaly hate wax oil, its just nasty stuff especialy when you need to work on the car at a later date.

what i use is seam sealer, (gray stipe) if you clean the area really well first then paint on the seam sealer, its basicaly the same as what ou see on new cars underneath the paint, then get some nice paint in a rattle can paint over it now what you have is a nice rubbery surface that looks factory and will be nice and bouncy if any stones hit it.

 

[aogrady]

i havent read the whole thread, but i personaly hate wax oil, its just nasty stuff especialy when you need to work on the car at a later date.

what i use is seam sealer, (gray stipe) if you clean the area really well first then paint on the seam sealer, its basicaly the same as what ou see on new cars underneath the paint, then get some nice paint in a rattle can paint over it now what you have is a nice rubbery surface that looks factory and will be nice and bouncy if any stones hit it.

Oh! That's a interesting option?! Is the seam sealer dear? Suppose cheaper than waxoil? Hmmm....interesting!

Alistair

 

[noddy]

Good for trapping water though and you wont know.

 

[AxlFoley]

only in the same way as wax oil, if you do it properly ther shouldnt be a problem

 

[Nic B-C]

seam sealant all over would be very expensive indeed and a total waste of time, now that is a substance would trap in water succesfully