Waxoyling Problem!!!!

[freddie]

Hopefully will be driving my import westy around soon. It will be my only transport so NEED to drive it!

I have heard waxoyling in this weather is a bad idea, but i have no heated garage or even a garage that will fit my bay in!!!!

What shal i do?

It wont last 1 week on these salty roads

 

[Frankie]

waxoil is good just make sure you get it in all the nooks ad crannies mix it with white spirit and heat it slightly that helps it to flow better good luck just cover everything in waxoil but take others advise also this is just my advise good luck , Frankie.

 

[Doris]

Hi freddie,I'm afraid waxoyling in this weather will be no where near as effective as during warmer months.the wax won't flow as soon as it hits the cold metal and your hands would be to cold to work properly - I wouldn't even think about it.you're in a right pickle mate,the bus has come at the wrong time of year really.

The only options I can think of of the top of my head is to hire /or a big favour a heated garage or work space. If its a place in business,maybe even suggesting you work over night while the tools are down so you don't get in the way.?
any farms nearby with out buildings that a farmer could rent out for a few days?

OR, how about buying a cheap (but big enough) gazebo,lay down some bricks along the bottom edge to seal the heat in and put a heater in there. It would cost the price of the gazebo,the heating/lighting bill and you may feel a bit yucky with the fumes - but, you could work in there on a dry warm bus & be happy that you've done a good job.

 

[froggy]

You could try an undersealer like schultz (not sure of the spelling but if you ask for it they will know what you mean) this needs applying with a compressed air system and a gun but should be ok as most off roaders (4x4) users use this on a lot worse than salty / wet roads

 

[kevinhall]

What about having it done professionally otherwise? There's an article in this months Volksworld Camper and Bus magazine if you haven't seen it already. They say it costs about £550 so not cheap but you'd get piece of mind. They used http://www.rustmaster.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I think.

 

[Araon]

PM Clem for a qoute

 

[noddy]

The other alternative is ankorwax by morris. I think this is liquid to start with, although Im not sure if it will be liquid at the current temperatures.
Try asking some of you local garages if you can hire some space for a few hours to waxoyl your van, just take a big sheet of plastic with you as this stuff get everywhere.

Even in summer temperatures waxoyl has to be thinned with white spirit and heated to spray in box sections.
The black wayoyl is for treating the exposed underside not the box sections, and need to be heated to.

In cold weather I found that the wax would set in the pipes of the spray equipment even if it was liquid in the drum.

You could try brushing it on the underside, it would be better than nothing but not as good as spraying, or as said before take it to a professional out fit and get them to treat if for you, its better to have wax in the seam before if goes on the road than salt water.

If its any help these are the access points to the box sections.

Front of sills: two plugs uses chip board screw in to the center to pull middle out.
Rear of sill: one plug.
B pillars: go through drain hole at the bottom.
A pillars: take door light switch out and treat up and down.
Front panel: take kick cards out and treat bottom and vertical seams each side near a pillars, bottom section of panel can be treated from underneath through the holes in the panel.
Dog legs: There is a plug in the bottom of the step push probe up and treat untill you see wax coming out of the b pillar the pull lance out whilst spraying, then push forward to treat inside of the step.
Engine hatch surround: Vertical sections from bottom and top section from engine bay.
Chassis: Most of this can be got to through the holes in the sections, rear chassis I treated with the bumper off through the plug holes in the rear qtrs. Cross sections can be treated through the jacking points. I also took the bumpers off and sprayed through the bolt holes.

IMO the sills, front panel, a and b pillars and the dog legs are probably the most important place to treat to start with as this is where most of the road spray goes, and where all these van end up going.

If you are unable to get is sprayed, paint waxoyl on the out side of the seams i.e. inner to outer sill, dog leg to b pillar etc, to act as a sealer.

 

[Bookwus]

Hiya freddie,

This MAY be an alternative you'd want to think about...............

I have a friend who lives in New York. His roads, like yours, are salted. And unprotected cars rust like crazy during those long wet (and salty) winters. However, he drove his VW Bug with no undercoating whatsoever for two years straight with no rust problems. How? He made sure that each evening when he pulled it in the driveway he hosed down the undersides of the car. That washed away the salt.

This what was related to me. I live in a state that does not salt their winter roads so I have no first-hand experience with this situation.

 

[freddie]

Thanks for all the replies guys

Sounds like the best approach is gonna be try and borrow/hire a garage.

I will ask around some friends :lol:

The only other problem is it wont fit into a normal garage as its too high! :roll:

 

[wilgartw]

The only other problem is it wont fit into a normal garage as its too high! :roll:

let the tyres down, roll it in.

 

[rev-al]

Great advice above - I Did mine and the g/f's beetle back in the summer. The main thing I found, which I'd like to pass on here in addition to the above -
is that it makes a real MESS on the ground underneath - so if you can get to borrow someone else's workplace, place some old sheets or something beneath your Bay, to catch all the overspray and drips. I get my old sheets from charity shops. Also - WEAR A HAT !! It's a drag getting it outta your hair !

Al

 

[Monkeyspinner Tim]

The other alternative is ankorwax by morris. I think this is liquid to start with, although Im not sure if it will be liquid at the current temperatures.

From years and years of experience waxoiling cars i can definately vouch for Ankor wax being a better product for a few reasons. i actually used some today on a job i have in and it is still liquid even in this temperature. because of that it will creep into seems etc where as warmed up waxoyl will hit the cold metal and go back to being solid before it has a chance to creep. also once the solvents have dissapated out of Ankor wax it will not turn back to liquid when it gets warm(unless extreme) so in the summer when the sun gets on your doors, sills etc you wont find all the waxoyl dripping out of the drain holes.

One problem with trying to waxoil a vehicle at this time of year is getting it dry enough first. if it lives outside the chances are from October till april it will never really be dry enough to treat. there will always be some damp in seems etc, it would take a few days to dry out properly if put inside a well ventilated garage, building.

I too carry out this service for people, price depends on how much you want doing, from just the underside to every nook and cranny inside and out...

 

[Doris]

Also - WEAR A HAT !! It's a drag getting it outta your hair !

Al

agreed!!!!

 

[freddie]

Thanks for all the advice guys

I have been asking round a few people as to what to do too, someone suggested painting the underneath with old engine oil to last the winter.... what do people think of that?

 

[Doris]

I saw a chap at Action doing that with his concours van,saves it up and just paints it on. he doesn't use waxoyl at all,just old engine oil - free & does the job & I must say - it did look nice under there.

(I would be concerned about it dripping onto the road - lethal for bikers in the wet !!!!) in your current situation may be a good option. but just thinking about when you do come to Waxoyl, will it take to the engine oil ?

 

[freddie]

I saw a chap at Action doing that with his concours van,saves it up and just paints it on. he doesn't use waxoyl at all,just old engine oil - free & does the job & I must say - it did look nice under there.

(I would be concerned about it dripping onto the road - lethal for bikers in the wet !!!!) in your current situation may be a good option. but just thinking about when you do come to Waxoyl, will it take to the engine oil ?

Oooo really, must do the job ok if someone was doing it to a concours van!!!

I know someone that is willing to give me a load, i was told it doesnt last very long before it starts to wear off. So when it comes to waxoying it should be ok

Im a bit worried a about it dripping off too :? Suppose as long as i dont paint it on too thick it should be ok.

 

[dubdubz]

I saw a chap at Action doing that with his concours van,saves it up and just paints it on. he doesn't use waxoyl at all,just old engine oil - free & does the job & I must say - it did look nice under there.

(I would be concerned about it dripping onto the road - lethal for bikers in the wet !!!!) in your current situation may be a good option. but just thinking about when you do come to Waxoyl, will it take to the engine oil ?

Oooo really, must do the job ok if someone was doing it to a concours van!!!

I know someone that is willing to give me a load, i was told it doesnt last very long before it starts to wear off. So when it comes to waxoying it should be ok

Im a bit worried a about it dripping off too :? Suppose as long as i dont paint it on too thick it should be ok.

it's your van but as a biker too - it is the pits , roads are bad this time of year without diesel and old engine oil. it's cheap granted but afaik old engine oil is believed to be carceogenic[sp] too?? :shock:
...appreciate budgets n stuff but you're van must be worth the rust proofing and if that means another couple of months at std height then I'd do that. I can recommend Tim he's very thorough, but you're van's not reg'd yet so getting it over may be an issue?
I'm getting mine done- it'll mean I'll have to wait for the mot/reg due to cost, but it'll mean it won't rust as fast before my eyes!

all imho as I've had the odd xmas sherry!

 

[baycrazy]

I've used old engine oil on both my Camper and my Beetle, Applied through a shutz gun, I soaked the camper underside (5 litres) used engine oil, left to drip off overnight, quick ragg wipe in the morning and then waxoiled (6litres) see pics before and after. I rekon a litre of oil drained off overnight, but after sealing it with wax oil and removing the sheets,there was no issue with dripping oil.

Got a Beetle 3mnths ago for the missus, so just did an oil soaking to get it through the winter before waxing in the summer. The camper looks as fresh as the day i did it but the beetle is drying so will need to be done in the summer - followed by waxoil.


A couple of pics of before and after treatment on the camper:-

 

[bayish]

You can get Chemwax 60/40 which is designed for spraying and it comes in an aerosol from http://www.chemodex.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; or they do standard stuff aswell

 

[Clem]

Just to echo what Tim said ^^

Ankor Wax is the good stuff for this job, and when blasted at high pressure mists really well into box sections etc.

Ill use Waxoil in the summer, but its not as nice.

As for old engine oil, no thanks - it stinks, is carceogenic (sp), filthy and it stinks Rust free vans arent a cheap enough commodity to worry about spending a few quid on protection for

Im cheap