What Carb?

[JMRacing66]

Hi all,

So my bus is fitted with a recently new empi carb. The garage I took it to has told me that these are basically junk and I should change it for something better.

The twin carb set ups sound a little tricky to set up for what I am looking for, so if I am to stick with a simple carb what is the best one to go for ? It's a standard twin port engine and I'm happy to increase the power a little if possible.thanks

 

[StuF]

Here you go mate

https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/weber-carburettors-parts/weber-twin-barrel-carburettors/dfev-carburettors/weber-single-dfev-carburettor-and-manifold-kit-type-1/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Upgraded single carb - only 1 in stock though!

 

[bac2ba6]

Empi carbs are well know for being a bit crap . But you do get the odd good one if your engines running ok then would leave it . If not then a reconditioned original
Solex 34pict carb is the identical swap for the empi . There fairly simple to recondition yourself or there are a few company's that do them for you .
Twin carbs are great and can produce a little more power but nothing that your gonna think wow on a stock motor there mainly better at keeping that power there over the stock carb but obviously cost more and are a bit of an art to set up properly but once set are great .
Hope this helps

Sent from my SM-J500FN using Tapatalk

 

[JMRacing66]

Thanks guys.

The engine is running fine when its going and pulls well. The issue I have is when coming to a halt at lights or a junction quite often the engine cuts out. I'm not sure if I need the tickover set slightly higher or whether it is something else to do with the carb, but its quite annoying !

 

[monkeyvanwestybike]

Hi
Machine 7 sell original solex carbs
Reconditioned in Germany

 

[Shaunb]

Sounds like a possible air leak, I had the same issue, engine cutting out when stopped, turned out my rubber sleeves on inlet manifold were split


[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com

 

[RednWhite]

Could well be your idle cutoff solonoid - have you tested it?

 

[radish]

https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/vw-carburettor-kits-parts/vw-aircooled-carburettor-kits/weber-dual-34ict-carburetor-kits/type-1-dual-port-twin-weber-ict34-carburettor-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If you went for one of them progressive carbs you would end up wishing you got twins. These are easy to use, the progressive weber 8s a nightmare to set up but when it's done they are good but ict's for similar money is what you want.

 

[econana]

Hi
I have had the same problem as an earlier post of the engine cutting out at lights etc. The problem is always the inlet manifold rubber elbows either coming loose or splitting and letting air in. I have tried to replace them but JK tell me that they only stock the ones for later models and can't source the earlier ones.

Has anyone else found a another source or an alternative solution?

My Aussie import has had a replacement 2000cc engine at some point.

URL=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-37735.htm]

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[Raggles]

Thanks guys.

The engine is running fine when its going and pulls well. The issue I have is when coming to a halt at lights or a junction quite often the engine cuts out. I'm not sure if I need the tickover set slightly higher or whether it is something else to do with the carb, but its quite annoying !

Assuming the carb is working ok.....

Does this happen when the engine is warm ... or all the time? How is it when starting ... both from cold an also when fully warmed up?

Check simple things like all the spade connectors to the coil are good and tight. The carbon rod is good in the distributor cap. Both can cause stalling as you describe.

Do a full tune up ... valve clearances/points(if using)/timing. Set the carb back to base and re-set ... I found this a good guide

http://www.volkzbitz.com/34pict-3---4-and-h30-31-adjustments.html

remove the volume and bypass screws and spray through with carb cleaner to remove any blockages. Also make sure that the throttle is fully closed, the screw on the throttle arm that the cable is attached to has to be only just touching the cam on its lowest point.

Could be a vacuum leak somewhere ... check by spraying some WD 40 or similar around all the intakes - if there is a change of speed in idle then you have a leak. Would be masked at higher revs but weaken the mixture sufficiently to cause a stall at low revs.

Make sure the fuel cut –off valve is working by removing the wire and re-attaching with the ignition on, engine off. You should hear a click.

Check for carb icing (usually only a problem before fully warmed up).

Try loosening the idle jet just below the choke unit about 1/2 turn, if the idle gets better, the idle jet is too small.

Vaporisation of fuel can also be a cause making the carb flood at lower revs ... are any of the fuel lines near the heat riser or anything hot? This can cause the fuel to expand increasing pressure and causing flooding - move the lines further away.

 

[atafonso]

Thanks guys.

The engine is running fine when its going and pulls well. The issue I have is when coming to a halt at lights or a junction quite often the engine cuts out. I'm not sure if I need the tickover set slightly higher or whether it is something else to do with the carb, but its quite annoying !

The problem you have could be the heating on the manifold. The carb itself can be made to work, although i do not recommend it to anyone when i build an engine.
If you want this type of carb to work properly either being an Empi or original Weber, you need to get a manifold that has the heating provision all the way to the base of the carb.
Another thing is the heat risers that connect to the exhaust. If your exhaust is an aftermarket one, the heat risers arw simply two little tubes welded to the top of the n 2 and 4 cylinders. Thet cannot work as when the engine runs, they only pulse gases from one side to the other, thus not heating the manifold as it should.
Looking at an original exhaust, you will note that on one side the risers are connected that way(could be on n2 or 4) and on the other side there is a pipe that goes further down in the exhaust.That helps to create a vaccum on that particular pipe. So you have a continuous flow on one direction only, heating the manifold as it should.
Another agravation for this problem would be if you have a 009 distributor. It works way better with a stock SVDA distributor, no flat spots and the proper advance curve.

Abel