Which Way To Go... Lowering Help

[wolfgang]

Sorry to do the lowering question again. I have searched but not really found the answers I need. I have a 68 microbus that I want to lower.

I have been quoted a very good price for fitted dropped spindles 3.5 and boomerang plates on the rear. When I saw a bus with this set up it didn't look as low as I was expecting. I have seen buses on french slammer adjusted beams with only 2.5 inch spindles that looked lower.

Can you low bus riders show me some pictures of your buses on 3.5 inch dropped spindles and then any pictures of French slammer lowered.

If the French slammer set up is the ride height I am after then this is the way I will go, although funds can't afford at the moment. If the 3.5 inch drop is good then I could go out this week and get it done. I want it right and if I have to wait to be able to pay for the French slammer set up then I will.

 

[Moseley]

Bear in mind that wheel and tyre choice could make the difference of a few inches when lowering - this could be what you were seeing?

 

[*Sam*]

From what you said above you want to run quite low.
I suggest the following parts.

3 or 4" narrowed beam
Dropped spindles
Adjustable spring plates
If your on 15" wheels 165/50/15

I would consider king and link pin option as well if your thinking of tubbing the front at a later date as it will offer you better beam to ground clearance.

 

[*Sam*]

 

[wolfgang]

^^ Cool ride. Is it 4 inch narrowed beam with stock 14" rims. Also what is on the back end. Your back wheels seem to have a lot less camber than a lot of slammed bays.

 

[*Sam*]

Cheers mate
3" narrowed adjustable beam
3.5" reversed ball joint spindles
Adjustable spring plates out back.
15" split screen wheels

 

[K@rlos]

King & Link is the best for serious lows, this is mine:



6" king & link pin adjustable beam (home built)
3.5" dropped spindles
Narrowed lower trailing arms
Slam shocks
Adjustable spring plates lowered 2 splines with coil overs at the back
Front notches & tubs too

 

[wolfgang]

^^ That looks gnarly mate.

I think it might be a bit low for me. If I go narrowed beam other than the obvious inch what is the difference between options on 3 and 4 inch beam. Like the look of 3 inch tuck. Will this allow after market wheels such as Fuchs.

 

[8adgerx]

4 inch narrow with Fuchs



Sent from the lair

 

[wolfgang]

,,^^ Low... Take it must be a k&l beam.

 

[mister]

Here is mine with Transporterhaus 3.5" dropped spindles and the stock beam





And here it is with a Frenchslammer 4" narrowed beam and 2.5" dropped spindles





Slamwerks adjustable spring plates on the back with both set ups. (I think most other makes are much the same)

The FS set up is lower because the beam has adjusters and its lowered on these as well as the the 2.5" dropped spindles. The ride is better (IMO) with the FS set up, as lowering on the adjusters firms up the ride. Much less rubbing.
With the T'haus dropped spindles the ride felt more like a stock set up, but the travel of the suspension was too much and caused a lot of rubbing of the wheels on the arches and the beam hitting the ground a bit. This was sorted with coilovers (see the Gaz coilover thread in the tech section) I think others have also used lower profile tyres than I tried, and/or air ride to sort this out with the T'haus spindles with good results.

I think it would make sense to try the ride in buses with both set ups first to see which you prefer, and spend your money once rather than twice like I did.....

If you want to go super lower then most go K&L like Karlos and Badgerx. The beam sits higher (about 1 1/2"?) for better clearance. Then you can also go for tubs, chassis notches, beam raises, engine/gearbox raise....... £££££

Mines not had any cutting of the chassis or body and rides nice.

Hope this helps!

 

[wolfgang]

Thanks Mister.The comparison really helps. Great looking bus . Leaning towards narrowed beam with 3.5 dropped spindles. The decisions are:
1. 3 inch or 4 inch narrowed beam. No sure of benefits of one over the other
2. I have drum breaks. If I change to discs in the future will I have to change spindles too.
3. Ball joint beam or k&l. They are the same price so why doesn't everyone go k&l beam when lowering so they have what ever options on low or very low.

Probably obvious answers but please bear with me.

 

[radish]

Thanks Mister.The comparison really helps. Great looking bus . Leaning towards narrowed beam with 3.5 dropped spindles. The decisions are:
1. 3 inch or 4 inch narrowed beam. No sure of benefits of one over the other
2. I have drum breaks. If I change to discs in the future will I have to change spindles too.
3. Ball joint beam or k&l. They are the same price so why doesn't everyone go k&l beam when lowering so they have what ever options on low or very low.

Probably obvious answers but please bear with me.

1. 4" makes your wheels disappear from sight! but no real difference
2. If you want discs you could go for Porsche or CSP and both use original drum spindles as the will need a mount for the caliper.
3. The price of the beams may be the same price but K&L spindles are pricey now. When i started building dropped spindles 8-9 years ago i never paid more than £50 for a usable pair now your looking at £200 for a shagged pair which of course has a knock on effect.

You may want to consider red9 front end, by the time you have spent all you money on a beam,spindles and brakes you are at the sort of money of a red9 wishbone front end. please note i don't know if they are any good though.

I would say K&L all day long the ride is great.

 

[mister]

Another thing to consider...
I just noticed yours is a 68. Early 68s have splitscreen bolt pattern on the beam. So you could possibly source a split beam which is narrower (someone else would have to confirm how much this is) and have the better clearence. Then get the spindles flipped.

Lots of research to do! I'm sure someone who has done this can confirm.

With the narrowed beam you also have to consider the ET of the wheels you are going to use. Mine are stock, many alloys stick out more, thus the need for narrowing when fitting these to have enough arch clearence.

 

[8adgerx]

One for sale on eBay noe

 

[Heebee_GB]

One for sale on eBay noe

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-SPLITSCREEN-EARLY-BAY-KING-AND-LINK-PIN-ADJUSTABLE-BEAM-/252034937852?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3aae73f3fc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[Heebee_GB]

One for sale on eBay noe

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-SPLITSCREEN-EARLY-BAY-KING-AND-LINK-PIN-ADJUSTABLE-BEAM-/252034937852?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3aae73f3fc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

 

[Graham L]

Only just seen this thread, give us a call or pop in. As the French Slammer UK dealer we have 2 buses available for test rides in to check its what you want before committing to buy.

The French Slammer dropped spindles are 2.5" not 3.5" and utilise standard spindles, the only 3.5" dropped ball joint spindles are of the 'flipped variety' which results in close to a 4" drop but you can only really run these on a 3" narrowed beam as otherwise the dampers foul the beam bolts.

The french slammer set up is 11cm narrowed but the dropped spindles add back a cm each side so you end up with a 9cm (3 3/4" ) narrowed beam with modified lower arms to make sure the dampers clear the beam.

I would also say cost up the options, the French Slammer set up comes as a complete beam with leaves, arms with new balljoints, tie rods, steering armetc etc and we do an exchange on your existing beam & spindles. Most other beams are supplied bare and you need to add what you need to all it.

A few shots of buses we have done....







Plus Andrews Westy above and Phils Red Westy (and a few lates)

 

[m0retto]

Don't know about you guys but the speed bumps around here would tear the front bumper clean off those slammed bays. I've worked it out that my normal 2 mile journey to work would be double if I had to avoid the mountainous speed bumps placed EVERYWHERE!! :x

 

[Graham L]

We go over speed ramps without too many issues, don't forget that the wheels are close to the centreline of the beam meaning that the beam is lifted over the ramp when the wheel goes over it.