Winter storage

[mackemmark]

As a complete newbie with a 1973 early bay camper, I'd be grateful for any tips on winter storage. It's parked off road but on the driveway as there is no garage. The van is kept covered but would be grateful for any advice on the most 'at risk' areas in winter and whether...

- it's best to take the van 1-2 times a week to keep it ticking over?
- should internal thermal blinds be left up?
- Chassis waxoil treatment?
- if it gets very cold/damp for a long period, is it worth asking around for temporary garaging?

Tips on any other areas would also be appreciated. Thank you!

 

[andrewblackwell]

If you can find a garage it will fit into that would be my main focus. Not many rentable ones are big enough for a Bay we found.
Ours barely squeezes into the garage we got which is the common seventies council built size. We purposely have a tin top because more likely to get in a garage without the campers folding roof. Have to back ours in as the up/over door only just clears the windscreen, but will not clear the steeper rear end. I have to get in/out via sliding door/walkthrough as too narrow for cab doors to open wide enough.
I had to lift the doorframe as much as possible and if bus was stock height it would not have fitted, so you might struggle to get a garage big enough.

Mine did ok last winter in a cold but very dry storage unit near me where a few guys keep classics & projects without costing those mental classic car storage prices. Worth looking for indoor storage providers rather than classics/garages.

Wasn’t started between Oct & late Jan. Battery was disconnected during that time to preserve charge, but still needed a hand with a NoCo booster when run up in late Jan just because carb bowls were empty and took long to fill. I now squirt a bit of fuel or starter spray in the carbs to kick it over faster.

This winter I’ll run it up more often anytime it’s dry outside, but not run it on salted roads in the depths of winter.

If your stuck with storing outside it’s not the end of the world. Our 1963 beetle was outdoors all year and our daily driver from 1997>2002. Cavities were internally waxoyled, but I used to coat all the outside edges, gutters and panel bottom edges with any oily spray like wd40, then clean it off once weather improved in spring. Looked awful while being driven but came up lovely after a wash, and defo kept off the worst of the rust.

Is your mackemmark name anything to do with Wearside?

 

[Clem]

Make the last fuel fill of the year Super Unleaded E5 petrol, remove as much soft furnishings or curtains as you can and chuck out any perishables in cool boxes etc. Maybe get some of those dehumidifier boxes to absorb moisture?
Give a wax polish before you put it away and yes, any underside or cavity waxing is a good idea.

 

[redgaz54]

As a complete newbie with a 1973 early bay camper, I'd be grateful for any tips on winter storage. It's parked off road but on the driveway as there is no garage. The van is kept covered but would be grateful for any advice on the most 'at risk' areas in winter and whether...

- it's best to take the van 1-2 times a week to keep it ticking over?
- should internal thermal blinds be left up?
- Chassis waxoil treatment?
- if it gets very cold/damp for a long period, is it worth asking around for temporary garaging?

Tips on any other areas would also be appreciated. Thank you!

Get yourself a Maypole breathable cover, and as has been said, thorough cavity & underside rust prevention. I found the Bilt Hamper products very good and easier to apply than most other stuff I've used.
Keep fuel tank full, plenty of additives out there to keep fuel fresh.

 

[garytype2]

Anyone in the Bournemouth area I have indoor storage available £150 p/m
£60 p/m outside
Coolcampers 07979 726763

 

[mackemmark]

If you can find a garage it will fit into that would be my main focus. Not many rentable ones are big enough for a Bay we found.
Ours barely squeezes into the garage we got which is the common seventies council built size. We purposely have a tin top because more likely to get in a garage without the campers folding roof. Have to back ours in as the up/over door only just clears the windscreen, but will not clear the steeper rear end. I have to get in/out via sliding door/walkthrough as too narrow for cab doors to open wide enough.
I had to lift the doorframe as much as possible and if bus was stock height it would not have fitted, so you might struggle to get a garage big enough.

Mine did ok last winter in a cold but very dry storage unit near me where a few guys keep classics & projects without costing those mental classic car storage prices. Worth looking for indoor storage providers rather than classics/garages.

Wasn’t started between Oct & late Jan. Battery was disconnected during that time to preserve charge, but still needed a hand with a NoCo booster when run up in late Jan just because carb bowls were empty and took long to fill. I now squirt a bit of fuel or starter spray in the carbs to kick it over faster.

This winter I’ll run it up more often anytime it’s dry outside, but not run it on salted roads in the depths of winter.

If your stuck with storing outside it’s not the end of the world. Our 1963 beetle was outdoors all year and our daily driver from 1997>2002. Cavities were internally waxoyled, but I used to coat all the outside edges, gutters and panel bottom edges with any oily spray like wd40, then clean it off once weather improved in spring. Looked awful while being driven but came up lovely after a wash, and defo kept off the worst of the rust.

Is your mackemmark name anything to do with Wearside?

Thanks very much for the advice - very helpful. Re. my name, ine side of my family is from Sunderland and I have the (most of the time) agony of supporting the football club...

 

[andrewblackwell]

Is it better to have the fullest tank of E5 fuel possible left in the tank over winter, with ethanol treatment added, or to run the treated fuel right down so you have an almost empty tank, and less fuel to go bad/ attract moisture?

 

[james_stan]

Is it better to have the fullest tank of E5 fuel possible left in the tank over winter, with ethanol treatment added, or to run the treated fuel right down so you have an almost empty tank, and less fuel to go bad/ attract moisture?

E5 full - additives are mostly snake oil, empty tank will encourage condensation unless you have a heated garage but you won't have unless you're a) Nick Mason or Jamiroquai b) American

 

[andrewblackwell]

I always run on E5 anyhow, & add the Lucas Safeguard each time which i'd read was the only one to be given any credit against ethanol.
I understand that submerging the steel tanks inner surface with fuel of minimal ethanol content protects it to some extent from moisture.
But then i considered more fuel in there = more potential for it to attract moisture as it stands & separates, as well as more fuel to spoil if unused over winter.
Expensive experiment with a 60 litre tank of Superunleaded costing about £100 presently.

 

[wklail]

Super unleaded is expensive there! That would discourage much driving. My 2013 Chevy Suburban holds 39 gallons (147.5 liters). Filling from empty would be painful indeed!

 

[james_stan]

I always run on E5 anyhow, & add the Lucas Safeguard each time which i'd read was the only one to be given any credit against ethanol.
I understand that submerging the steel tanks inner surface with fuel of minimal ethanol content protects it to some extent from moisture.
But then i considered more fuel in there = more potential for it to attract moisture as it stands & separates, as well as more fuel to spoil if unused over winter.
Expensive experiment with a 60 litre tank of Superunleaded costing about £100 presently.

It won't spoil over winter - no way. Too much hate-speech for ethanol fuel and 'stale' petrol in general - someone tell me they've genuinely been affected, stating the timescales involved and not something they heard down teh pub (or more likley social media).

 

[andrewblackwell]

I think i worry too much about all the "what-ifs". In the first year of winter storage i wondered if i would flat spot my tyres from having it stood too long in one place. Didn't happen.
When something does actually go wrong, its rarely the things you spent time worrying about anyhow.

 

[Clem]

Yeah, it’s only a few months. It’s unlikely they’ll be any disasters in that time really. Protect as much as you can, ‘air’ as much as you can, good check over before driving after a lay up and take it steady first time.

 

[creationblue]

I put mine in storage whilst I had an extension built a few years ago, it was stood on chippings in a huge marquee type structure with many other cars for around 2 months. everything that wasn't stainless in the engine bay rusted, I couldn't believe it!