Cousin Eddie

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And so at this point in time the casings I’ve sent to the engine re-conditioners to simply clean so I can return home to inspect, measure and move forward with block preparation, in the meantime I’ve measured only the mains and the bearings and wow, to my suprise they look awesome, yea the block is not a virgin block, it has been tunnel bored 0.020 thou and the crank main journal 0.010 thou and even with the used bearings the clearances are stilt within spec , some good news, but I will wait to get the casings back to check the tunnels and at this point in time? I am hopefull🤞🙏, oh and some new bits have turned up
 

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Ok so now I’m probably thinking to Far ahead, heads? But as far a crank and rods go they are factory forged and so they are definitely staying, lightening forgings is difficult as heat ruins the metallurgical structure so that will be a challenge but the biral cylinders and hyperutectic pistons are wayyyyyy lighter already, the pistons are 96mm slugs now and so they are up from 93.5 and are 12% lighter that the originals and the biral cylinders are about half that of cast iron and so we’re looking pretty good so far but the factory rods will need lightening, they weigh heaps and so I need to shave off as much as I can so when it comes to balancing it will be easier to achieve,we’ll probably go lightened chromoly flywheel as well
 
Next conversation, it’s a BIG one fellas, “CAM SELECTION “ 😆
 
Mate, feel for you. So were you going with it then ? Shoe horning a rebuild that’ll have you on boiled rice for a century or try and get the proper motor for it? The type 1 has several advantages as in they’re a lot cheaper to rebuild, it’ll fit in nicely, it’ll look the proper job but it will be down on ponies. The type 4 will need some fairly severe modification of various bits to get it in and sealed in. The parts are a bit on the pricey side and you know you’re gonna need to modify this and that etc etc. For a bit of a gain in ponies but nothing up to modern standards. I’d down tools and make a list of what I think I need for each operation and in the mean time put up some ads locally for a turnkey engine or see what you can find. My best guess says start looking for a turnkey type 1. It’s amazing what turns up when peeps know you are looking for . A big old doorstop in one garage could be your salvation at yours.

Ozziedog,,,,,good hunting and good luck bud. :)
 
Mate, feel for you. So were you going with it then ? Shoe horning a rebuild that’ll have you on boiled rice for a century or try and get the proper motor for it? The type 1 has several advantages as in they’re a lot cheaper to rebuild, it’ll fit in nicely, it’ll look the proper job but it will be down on ponies. The type 4 will need some fairly severe modification of various bits to get it in and sealed in. The parts are a bit on the pricey side and you know you’re gonna need to modify this and that etc etc. For a bit of a gain in ponies but nothing up to modern standards. I’d down tools and make a list of what I think I need for each operation and in the mean time put up some ads locally for a turnkey engine or see what you can find. My best guess says start looking for a turnkey type 1. It’s amazing what turns up when peeps know you are looking for . A big old doorstop in one garage could be your salvation at yours.

Ozziedog,,,,,good hunting and good luck bud. :)
Totally agree mate, the type 4 came with its own transmission as well so it’s not that a hard install, yes definitely more costly but I do like to build engines as well, I do get a kick out of it and besides the type 4 crank to flywheel connection is sooooo much better than the type 1.

Besides I have never owned or built An engine that’s sooooo over square in my life this thing has a 66mm stroke and a 96mm bore that means the piston speed is so slow compared to stroked engines and this thing is going to be a screamer if it’s the last thing I do, can’t wait for the silliness to begin , I’m halfway thinking of adding an LSD in the box so I can do traditional #11’s with it
 

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