1970 Westy Pop Top
- Thread starter Cali_bay
- Start date
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K@rlos
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2008
- Messages
- 5,171
- Reaction score
- 864
- Location
- Felixstowe, Suffolk
- Year of Your Van(s)
- 1970
- Van Type
- Westfalia pop-top
Cali_bay said:K@rlos said:What cc is this motor gonna be? 90.5's a stroker crank sound juicy1955? 2007? 2110? :msn4:
Hi K@rlos,
It's going to be a 2027cc. Not going for Ball's out performance, just realiable torque, hopefully.
Cheers,
Si
Look forward to seeing it all bolted up
what carbs, cam and heads you using? Karl
Thanks for your comments guys, I have been on holiday in the lakes last week so no new progress. Will be getting back on it this week.
Hi Leon,
Yes I am quite lucky, but so help me if I get anything on the carpet :shock: . I won't be doing the final build in there as theres more risk of getting in the dog house. :roll:
Hi karl,
I'm hopefully going to be running with Dell 40's on CB 044 heads. I am not doing any major porting for now.
leon said:
Hi Leon,
Yes I am quite lucky, but so help me if I get anything on the carpet :shock: . I won't be doing the final build in there as theres more risk of getting in the dog house. :roll:
K@rlos said:Cali_bay said:K@rlos said:What cc is this motor gonna be? 90.5's a stroker crank sound juicy
Hi K@rlos,
It's going to be a 2027cc. Not going for Ball's out performance, just realiable torque, hopefully.
Cheers,
Si
Look forward to seeing it all bolted up
Karl
Hi karl,
I'm hopefully going to be running with Dell 40's on CB 044 heads. I am not doing any major porting for now.
K@rlos
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2008
- Messages
- 5,171
- Reaction score
- 864
- Location
- Felixstowe, Suffolk
- Year of Your Van(s)
- 1970
- Van Type
- Westfalia pop-top
If your after torque more than all out horsepower then porting the heads & manifolds will not be needed as is slows down low speed port velocity. However match porting the carbs to manifolds & and manifolds to heads would be a good move IMO. Deffo gonna be following this engine build 8)
Karl
Karl
K@rlos said:
Hi Karl, Thanks for the tip, I'll give this a go.
I finally got round to measuring up the deck height. I torqued each head down in turn with the ground plate and used a digital DTI to set the piston and TDC. I then measured each piston height using a Depth Micrometer.
The smallest deck height measured was 1.295mm, this calculated through works out to give a CR of 9:1, which is too high for this build.
Therefore I need to fit 1.5mm (0.06”) shims which would take the CR to 7.93:1 based on the head chambers being 55cc. I still need to cc the heads to confirm that they are matched.
The maximum difference between min and max deck gives a 0.77cc max variation which looking about on various sites sounds OK on a street/bus engine.
Finally got re-started on my engine build. Spring is approaching, well hopefully
Cc’d the heads using polycarbonate disk I made, a bit of grease around the edge and a 100ml syringe
I found them to be within 2cc of each other and reworked the chambers to get them with 1cc.
Next onto lapping the valves
A bit of engineers blue to check the fit
Then heated the gears to fit them to the crank shaft.
After cleaning all the parts again :roll: . I finally built up to long block, no assembly pictures as I just got stuck in and built it up.
Next jobs to do.....
Measure and set end float
Rocker geometry and push rod length
Clean and paint tinware
Cc’d the heads using polycarbonate disk I made, a bit of grease around the edge and a 100ml syringe
I found them to be within 2cc of each other and reworked the chambers to get them with 1cc.
Next onto lapping the valves
A bit of engineers blue to check the fit
Then heated the gears to fit them to the crank shaft.
After cleaning all the parts again :roll: . I finally built up to long block, no assembly pictures as I just got stuck in and built it up.
Next jobs to do.....
Measure and set end float
Rocker geometry and push rod length
Clean and paint tinware
68_early_bay
Well-known member
Nice work 8)
creationblue
Well-known member
Nice to see your working again :lol: Looks 8)
Marriedblonde
Well-known member
Good effort
Bay-low71
Well-known member
Some awesome work your doing, fancy finishing mine it's doing my head in and only just started..
Thanks for your comments. Great to get back onto it, now I just need to get it done ready for the good weather. If it comes this year :lol:
Have you posted any pictures of your bus in the gallery yet? That's the rules :lol:
No your all right.
I do wonder why I started doing mine...... :lol: Just looking forward to getting it done.
NellyM said:
Have you posted any pictures of your bus in the gallery yet? That's the rules :lol:
Bay-low71 said:
No your all right.
I do wonder why I started doing mine...... :lol: Just looking forward to getting it done.
Right time for an update. I have cleaned all the tinware for the build and this has gone off for paint.
I then moved onto setting my rocker geometry.
The first job was to set the rockers so that the adjusters are just off the centre line of the valve heads. This is to promote valve rotation during running. This involves swapping shims around on the bolt on rocker shaft until all rockers are aligned to the desired position.
This first picture is how a couple of the adjuster were positioned on first fitment
The next images are the alignment after playing with the shims.
Made an adjustable push rod from an old rod to check the rocker vertical alignment.
I first setup the rockers without pedestal shims and set up a DTI onto the valve retainer at about the angle of the valve.
Then rotated the crankshaft until I achieved full lift.
Then rotated the crank back until approx. half lift was achieved. The rocker adjuster was central to the valve tip, which is where it should be, therefore I do not need to shim the supports....result.
So now I need to cut the push rods to length, install them and then the valve train is complete.
Next........on to the end float.
I then moved onto setting my rocker geometry.
The first job was to set the rockers so that the adjusters are just off the centre line of the valve heads. This is to promote valve rotation during running. This involves swapping shims around on the bolt on rocker shaft until all rockers are aligned to the desired position.
This first picture is how a couple of the adjuster were positioned on first fitment
The next images are the alignment after playing with the shims.
Made an adjustable push rod from an old rod to check the rocker vertical alignment.
I first setup the rockers without pedestal shims and set up a DTI onto the valve retainer at about the angle of the valve.
Then rotated the crankshaft until I achieved full lift.
Then rotated the crank back until approx. half lift was achieved. The rocker adjuster was central to the valve tip, which is where it should be, therefore I do not need to shim the supports....result.
So now I need to cut the push rods to length, install them and then the valve train is complete.
Next........on to the end float.
A little bit further on now.
A mate at work turned my push rods down to the length I measured with the adjustable one. I installed these and luckily I got the measurements right for a change.
Next installed the shims and measured the end float, this took a few goes to get it where it needed to be. The pictures are the final measure up before I fitted the seals.
First the seal and o-ring
Next the flywheel.
Finally fitted the fuel pump, cooler and stand.
I was suppose to be getting the tin back tomorrow, but it looks like I am going to be let down with this. So can't do much more till I get this.
I been looking at jet sizes for my DRLA's, I'm going to try 32mm vents, 135 mains 55-60 idles ( :? ), the emulsions are 9164.1's with 175 airs, which are not 100% right, but I have been told they will work? It looks like it's fairly easy to change the the 9164.1 to .2's by filling the top set of holes. So may try this if it does not run well.
Can't wait to get it finished and give it a try
A mate at work turned my push rods down to the length I measured with the adjustable one. I installed these and luckily I got the measurements right for a change.
Next installed the shims and measured the end float, this took a few goes to get it where it needed to be. The pictures are the final measure up before I fitted the seals.
First the seal and o-ring
Next the flywheel.
Finally fitted the fuel pump, cooler and stand.
I was suppose to be getting the tin back tomorrow, but it looks like I am going to be let down with this. So can't do much more till I get this.
I been looking at jet sizes for my DRLA's, I'm going to try 32mm vents, 135 mains 55-60 idles ( :? ), the emulsions are 9164.1's with 175 airs, which are not 100% right, but I have been told they will work? It looks like it's fairly easy to change the the 9164.1 to .2's by filling the top set of holes. So may try this if it does not run well.
Can't wait to get it finished and give it a try
cotswoldiver
Well-known member
Great work Simon
It will be ready for spring .....
It will be ready for spring .....
cotswoldiver said:Great work Simon
It will be ready for spring .....
Hi David.
Thanks, yes hope to get it in soon. Need to get the bus mot'd first though.
Hope you are well? How's your bus?
Cheers Si
No update as I'm waiting for my tinware.
creationblue
Well-known member
Looks like you did a good job there Si, what colour tin?
