dubscum
Well-known member
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnsNBGXsUlQ&feature=related" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
68 Deluxe - Back to full height
- Thread starter ZedBed
- Start date
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Today I emptied a load of spare rattle cans at the floor - 4 nearly full ones so that saved a few quid. Nobody will see the floor which is a good job because it's mostly seagull grey, with a touch of mango green where I didn't quite make it with the grey. Shhh don't tell anyone. :msn4:
I also painted the rear hatch opening - should have done it along with the sides really but I didn't. When it was dry I made some wood beading and jammed it into the gap left when the headlining was removed. Wood pinstriping. 8) And greasy palm prints all over the new paint - didn't notice until I looked at the pics just now. Looks a right mess under the camera flash but in reality it's as red as the bit to the right.
...and fitted the hatch seal I bought 6 months ago. I haven't shut it - there are little screw on wedges on each pillar to adjust the hatch closed horizontal position and they are here at home getting a clean.
Looks like some blacking of rubber parts is on the cards at some point...
I also painted the rear hatch opening - should have done it along with the sides really but I didn't. When it was dry I made some wood beading and jammed it into the gap left when the headlining was removed. Wood pinstriping. 8) And greasy palm prints all over the new paint - didn't notice until I looked at the pics just now. Looks a right mess under the camera flash but in reality it's as red as the bit to the right.
...and fitted the hatch seal I bought 6 months ago. I haven't shut it - there are little screw on wedges on each pillar to adjust the hatch closed horizontal position and they are here at home getting a clean.
Looks like some blacking of rubber parts is on the cards at some point...
I've made a balls up of the lighting. I didn't do my homework, just blazed in there. It turns out that to dim LED's the current has to be reduced wile the voltage remains constant. I'm just getting to grips with this as electric's not my bag anyway. So to reduce voltage you can put your dimmer in line, but to reduce current it seems it must be in series. That means all the -ve's from the lights need to come back to the dimmer as well as the +ve's. I earthed all mine next to each light. I'm not taking that bloody roof back down to rewire - yet. Another day when I'm bored and it's otherwise finished.
If anyone reading this can offer a way to dim with my wiring I'm all ears - maybe I'm not understanding...
Poop
I didn't do my homework, just blazed in there. It turns out that to dim LED's the current has to be reduced wile the voltage remains constant. I'm just getting to grips with this as electric's not my bag anyway. So to reduce voltage you can put your dimmer in line, but to reduce current it seems it must be in series. That means all the -ve's from the lights need to come back to the dimmer as well as the +ve's. I earthed all mine next to each light. I'm not taking that bloody roof back down to rewire - yet. Another day when I'm bored and it's otherwise finished.If anyone reading this can offer a way to dim with my wiring I'm all ears - maybe I'm not understanding...
Poop
68_early_bay
Well-known member
ZedBed said:I've made a balls up of the lighting.
If anyone reading this can offer a way to dim with my wiring I'm all ears - maybe I'm not understanding...
Poop
It's looking good
Shame about the dim able lights This website says That some dimming can be achieved with using a voltage drop, have a read and see if it reads like to you lol on the 12/24v dc bit And it makes a different what dimmer you use
http://www.led-lightbulbs.co.uk/main.asp?sitepages=Tech-Dimming-LEDs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Thanks for the info 68EB.
Last night the thought of taking down the roof again to add 2 earth circuits seemed inconceivable, but this morning was another day so I bit the bullet. Doing it later would have meant removing the kitchen to get the side panel out as well as taking down the roof.
That took the best part of the day and though it was late I re-made the wood sides for the RR bed. The old were manky melomine chipboard and frayed at the edges so I made ply ones. If I install a drawer they'll never be seen, but if I use the space under the bed for a cupboard they'll be visible. Fitted them to the frame, bunged the timber floor layers in and fitted the bed. One regret is not having time to paint the bed frame but it should come out on it's own to do later while I get the upholstery done.
Picked up the Brushed SS worksurface from my mate Dave this afternoon. It has a 10mm return on all 4 edges, welded at the corners and rebrushed where it was welded. I gave him interior dimensions that are 2mm bigger than the wood (you'll see why eventually) and prayed I'd made my ply base square. It's perfect - or both it and my wood are wrong. Buttock clenching moment - £50 that cost me!
Sorry no piccies today.
Last night the thought of taking down the roof again to add 2 earth circuits seemed inconceivable, but this morning was another day so I bit the bullet. Doing it later would have meant removing the kitchen to get the side panel out as well as taking down the roof.
That took the best part of the day and though it was late I re-made the wood sides for the RR bed. The old were manky melomine chipboard and frayed at the edges so I made ply ones. If I install a drawer they'll never be seen, but if I use the space under the bed for a cupboard they'll be visible. Fitted them to the frame, bunged the timber floor layers in and fitted the bed. One regret is not having time to paint the bed frame but it should come out on it's own to do later while I get the upholstery done.
Picked up the Brushed SS worksurface from my mate Dave this afternoon. It has a 10mm return on all 4 edges, welded at the corners and rebrushed where it was welded. I gave him interior dimensions that are 2mm bigger than the wood (you'll see why eventually) and prayed I'd made my ply base square. It's perfect - or both it and my wood are wrong. Buttock clenching moment - £50 that cost me!
Sorry no piccies today.
rallye dale
Well-known member
No pics ! shame on you
Its amazing what enthusiasm you have the next day when all seemed lost the night before
Its amazing what enthusiasm you have the next day when all seemed lost the night before
It's been a long day - first to Homebase (as it turns out - they all look the same to me) for some hardwood dowel.
Then trying to ram it into the pocket of the rear blind in the boot of the car while not touching it. What a palava. :roll:
Paranoia over grubbing up the blinds made me double check, and degrease the inside if the rear hatch - filthy even though I already gave it a major clean up. Then I thought it would be best if the blind ran over a piece of wood rather than the old paint so made a strip and stuck it to the hatch. Tensioned the blind not wanting to put it down or touch it - I had to handle it with paper towels. Fitted to the carier I made and onto the hatch. Stuck some sound deadening on the panels and clipped on the ply trim panel underneath. Then I realised I still hadn't worked out how to keep them up. After a quick think and a cup of tea I made some oak hook things and screwed them to the hatch. The moment of truth had arrived. Let me assure you I'm not as convinced about this as I may appear. I just hate curtains, curtain rail, storing loose magnet curtains, and of course those big silver wrap things (and storing them as well). Enough waffle...
Up.
Down.
:mrgreen:
Then trying to ram it into the pocket of the rear blind in the boot of the car while not touching it. What a palava. :roll:
Paranoia over grubbing up the blinds made me double check, and degrease the inside if the rear hatch - filthy even though I already gave it a major clean up. Then I thought it would be best if the blind ran over a piece of wood rather than the old paint so made a strip and stuck it to the hatch. Tensioned the blind not wanting to put it down or touch it - I had to handle it with paper towels. Fitted to the carier I made and onto the hatch. Stuck some sound deadening on the panels and clipped on the ply trim panel underneath. Then I realised I still hadn't worked out how to keep them up. After a quick think and a cup of tea I made some oak hook things and screwed them to the hatch. The moment of truth had arrived. Let me assure you I'm not as convinced about this as I may appear. I just hate curtains, curtain rail, storing loose magnet curtains, and of course those big silver wrap things (and storing them as well). Enough waffle...
Up.
Down.
:mrgreen:
Bouyed by that success, onwards to a side one. I picked the rear one on the opposite to the sliding door, so I can follow on withe the one actually opposite the sliding door and have 3 in a row. Also these two are the hardest because I had to do some other stuff first.
replumb the eber air pipes with new ones.
Fit an aux fuse box - so far only for the lights in the back - and wire it up
Work out a way of fixing the side cupboard to the van
Adjust the cupboard some more to fit the roller mechansim in.
Make more oak hooks.
That lot done it was all scrubbing hands and panic - I got at least one grubby print on it.
So, after a 12 hour day just this lot fitted so far, and next panel nearly there...
Night...
Day.
Onwards and upwards campers.
replumb the eber air pipes with new ones.
Fit an aux fuse box - so far only for the lights in the back - and wire it up
Work out a way of fixing the side cupboard to the van
Adjust the cupboard some more to fit the roller mechansim in.
Make more oak hooks.
That lot done it was all scrubbing hands and panic - I got at least one grubby print on it.
So, after a 12 hour day just this lot fitted so far, and next panel nearly there...
Night...
Day.
Onwards and upwards campers.
8)
8) tidy blinds my man, tidy
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Pure awesome sauce 8)
Thanks mate. I don't know exactly what that means but it sounds positive,gvee said:
Waffle first
... My original plan was to have the seat sides upholstered approx 1" thick but when I saw how little width would be left for the drawers, the sides had to give up their space. As you've seen on the previous pics that left great swathes of unbroken ply surface. Call me old fashioned, but while ply is a good material for construction, when there's a large expanse it screams "Look at me, I'm cheap plywood!". Where i've bent it I like it - then it's saying " look what you can do with me I'm a great invention!". Bare with me it's been a long day .
Back with the original plan I didn't know what was going to happen with all the panel space between the furniture and on the sliding door, but along the way I got the brown and cream interior panels from 5erge (thanks matey
) so that steered it. I wasn't sure until I'd stuck them on new backs and fitted the first one, but I likey. Concept sounds up your arse, but I've been trying hard not to make a camper, but make a van I can camp in. So no obvious curtains, cooker, sink etc.So, believe it or not it only ocurred to me as I was installing the furniture that I could use the trim panels from over the arches and fix them on the sides of the seat. Derrr. Two birds with ones stone - they fit in the gap next the the bed hinges and continue on the microbus ( or at least not camper) theme.
OK that's nearly enough writing -I took the slider off, dust coated the inner repair, while that flashed off degreased the inner panels and stuck sound proofing on them, then top coated and while that dried fitted the clips to the slding door panel then fiited the panel and then the door. Most efficient. 8)
Here's the pics...
Still lots do do, but that's about it for now. Got to say I'm very happy how it's coming on.
