Carb idle cut off solenoid isn't working ,can I drive?

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fozworth

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I'm due to collect my bus from the body shop this week and I've been told that my carb idle cut off solenoid isn't clicking so the chap recons it's broken,which is kind of crap as I bought it from gsf back in November last year and the engine has been started just enough to load it on a transporter and then off again a couple times .I have the receipt but don't hold my breath with gsf to change it .I need to drive it home 2 miles this week from the body shop .Can I do this with the solenoid defective?
 
You can do it, I did on mine when the solenoid went, just have to keep the revs up above idol, is tricky at lights roundabouts etc but doable. You could also adjust the idol screw on the carb to make easier, but remember to re adjust back when replacing solenoid.


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Cheers ,If I just bug another,is it a case of just switching it or do I have to mess with the carb much ?
 
Should be able to just switch to a new one if the carb was originally set up ok, as the solenoid just stops running on if engine hot after ignition turned off etc. A good explanation here http://www.vw-resource.com/jets.html#idle" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


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All you need to do is unscrew the bad cutoff solenoid and nip off the plunger end, then reinstall. Good to Go.
 
I don't understand ,how does that sort it ? Also the one that I removed before fitting the gsf one had the same done to it but I didn't understand why ?
 
fozworth said:
I don't understand ,how does that sort it ? Also the one that I removed before fitting the gsf one had the same done to it but I didn't understand why ?

With the power off the plunger blocks one of the galleries to prevent fuel going through. When the solenoid is powered the plunger is pulled back and the gallery is unblocked. Taking the plunger bit off means the gallery is always unblocked which is fine when you are running but means you might get some over run when the engine is switched off.
 
My last one before this one was snipped off . Is this a common remedy or can it be something that causes the solenoid to blow ?
 
fozworth said:
My last one before this one was snipped off . Is this a common remedy or can it be something that causes the solenoid to blow ?

Probably a cheap/quick fix for when it fails. Obviously better to have it fully working but cutting the end off will allow you to run whilst you get the part to fix it
 
67westy said:
fozworth said:
My last one before this one was snipped off . Is this a common remedy or can it be something that causes the solenoid to blow ?

Probably a cheap/quick fix for when it fails. Obviously better to have it fully working but cutting the end off will allow you to run whilst you get the part to fix it


Exactly this. The solenoid is there to stop "dieseling" which is where you turn the ignition off, and the heat of the engine keeps the engine running a little bit afterwards. It typically only lasts for a second or two so it's really not an issue in the first place.

So, people snip off the plunger on defective solenoids just to keep the engine running at junctions. It's not the hugest problem.

And yes, I would expect a new part from GSF to fail after two or three uses. As a check, pull the wire off, with the ignition on, stick it to one side of a 12V bulb, and earth the other side. If the bulb lights, the solenoid is defective. If it doesn't, it's the wiring from the coil.
 
Happystamps said:
67westy said:
fozworth said:
My last one before this one was snipped off . Is this a common remedy or can it be something that causes the solenoid to blow ?

Probably a cheap/quick fix for when it fails. Obviously better to have it fully working but cutting the end off will allow you to run whilst you get the part to fix it


Exactly this. The solenoid is there to stop "dieseling" which is where you turn the ignition off, and the heat of the engine keeps the engine running a little bit afterwards. It typically only lasts for a second or two so it's really not an issue in the first place.

So, people snip off the plunger on defective solenoids just to keep the engine running at junctions. It's not the hugest problem.

And yes, I would expect a new part from GSF to fail after two or three uses. As a check, pull the wire off, with the ignition on, stick it to one side of a 12V bulb, and earth the other side. If the bulb lights, the solenoid is defective. If it doesn't, it's the wiring from the coil.




Is there a better quality version available then ?
 
Ahhhhhhhhh,,, now you want one that actually works for more than five minutes :lol: Seems a tall order nowdays. If there are any good ones available and you get no joy from eurocarb, ask VWed on here and send him a PM. He`s also in Bristol. He may be able to locate one for you or tell you where to get one. I got a funny feeling he`s not too far away from you as well. :shock:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Van looks good by the way :mrgreen:
 

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